Very disappointed!

[bundy71]

My wife and I are very disappointed with our 2018 1910 ESP. We purchased it almost one year ago, see thread here:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...5&share_type=t
In that time we have used it for 4 trips, I’d say maybe a total of 14 days.

After our first trip, we had to have the Velcro replaced under the bed ends, as it separated from the plywood. And we found that the outdoor speaker was cracked. So when we had it in for the repairs, under warranty, we decided to have an a/c unit installed. No complaints, everything was repaired to our satisfaction.

On our next trip, the canvas ripped at the seams of the bed corners!

On our latest trip, I could not get the door to setup right in the doorway. I leveled the trailer, I tried leveling the trailer again, no change. It almost seems as if the door is bent. While trying to install the door, the screws for the upper door clips pulled out of the side wall. I had to make new holes to secure the top of the door. As we were breaking down to leave the campground, our left rear roof latch broke off! Some screws pulled out, some snapped! So to secure the left rear corner of the roof, I used a ratchet strap.

And when the pop up is closed up, the door does not make a nice seal at the top where it meets the roof.

Some of the other issues we are having are, some of the marker lights are filled with water. The WiFi ranger has moisture in the housing. The door for the front storage bin is not sealing tightly. The mattresses have rips at the seams, it appears the stitching didn’t grab the material. One of the leveling feet for the dining table has fallen out, and I can not get it to catch the threads inside the leg. The liner inside of the rear bed slide is sticking out. And the outside speaker housing is cracked again.

As I said, we are really disappointed with the quality of this pop up. We will be going back to our dealer for warranty repairs, before our one year manufacturer warranty is over. We think we will be getting out of this pop up as soon as we can, and moving to a Travel Trailer. We won’t be buying a Forest River/Rockwood product. The pop ups my parents owned, Viking, Coleman, seemed to be of better quality than this Forest River.

[Scrapper]

Most popups and a-frames can have the body stressed by trying to jack them up too much with the stabilizers. The door binding up or not closing properly will be the first sign. If you have trouble getting the roof latches to fasten or the roof not closing sufficiently then that is a sign that you need to rearrange the canvas material so it lays properly. Also, having bulky quilts and other bed covers on the beds when folding up the camper can cause the roof to not seal properly. What I found is when you slide the bunk end into the trailer is to go inside and rearrange the tent ends so the bulk of the material is not bunched up. You may have to do this after lowering the roof part way so you have a better idea as to what needs to be done. Don't rely on just pushing the tent material in from outside. If the roof fasteners are hard to latch the tent material is bunched up too much.


Though my signature says I have a TT on a seasonal site, I also use a 1992 popup when we want to take long trips.

[bundy71]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Most popups and a-frames can have the body stressed by trying to jack them up too much with the stabilizers. The door binding up or not closing properly will be the first sign. If you have trouble getting the roof latches to fasten or the roof not closing sufficiently then that is a sign that you need to rearrange the canvas material so it lays properly. Also, having bulky quilts and other bed covers on the beds when folding up the camper can cause the roof to not seal properly. What I found is when you slide the bunk end into the trailer is to go inside and rearrange the tent ends so the bulk of the material is not bunched up. You may have to do this after lowering the roof part way so you have a better idea as to what needs to be done. Don't rely on just pushing the tent material in from outside. If the roof fasteners are hard to latch the tent material is bunched up too much.


Though my signature says I have a TT on a seasonal site, I also use a 1992 popup when we want to take long trips.

I use leveling blocks to get the pup level, then stabilize it with the jacks. We don’t keep any bedding material on the beds when we close the camper. I have not tried going in to pull the fabric in more when we slide the bed ends in.

[flyerdp]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Most popups and a-frames can have the body stressed by trying to jack them up too much with the stabilizers. The door binding up or not closing properly will be the first sign. If you have trouble getting the roof latches to fasten or the roof not closing sufficiently then that is a sign that you need to rearrange the canvas material so it lays properly. Also, having bulky quilts and other bed covers on the beds when folding up the camper can cause the roof to not seal properly. What I found is when you slide the bunk end into the trailer is to go inside and rearrange the tent ends so the bulk of the material is not bunched up. You may have to do this after lowering the roof part way so you have a better idea as to what needs to be done. Don't rely on just pushing the tent material in from outside. If the roof fasteners are hard to latch the tent material is bunched up too much.


Though my signature says I have a TT on a seasonal site, I also use a 1992 popup when we want to take long trips.

I actually have a 3 inch foam mattress topper on the front bunk that stays on the mattress when closed. I find that once everything is closed but the roof is up I can pull the topper closer to the middle of the camper where its on both bunk mattresses leaving a space from it to the front of the camper about 2 feet of room for the tent to fold in to. Its about an inch lifted on the front end when the roof is down and I can easily clamp it. I don't cinch it though until we go because its stowed in the garage.

The moral here is as long as their is enough room at the ends for tent you can close it with stuff on the mattress. I could not easily close it without moving the topper away from the end.

[TheWolfPaq82]

I've got a 1987 Jayco that's still usable. Needs canvas replaced, but still usable. Now that's Quality that no longer exist in the industry today.

[HappyCamperCanada]

I thought the ESP models were supposed to be built tougher than the Freedom, Premier, and HW models. That sucks. Speaking of doors, the last time I set up my new Premier 2514g a week or so ago, I had trouble getting the door right. The pup roof was at the same height as before, the red guide wire was the same tension as before. However, the two top door hooky things that keep the top in place were too high. They would not make contact and latch the top of the door in place. So I lowered the roof about an inch so they would reach the top of the door. Now The red guide wire was slacker than previous setups. Also, The top of the door which is bendy seemed a little more bendy than before as well. The pup was level front to back and side to side and stabilizer jacks were down, just enough to stabilize and not lift the frame anywhere. Once in place though, the door opened and closed just fine. Weird

Also, when we were packing up after our last trip, it started to sprinkle so we were hurrying. Nothing got torn or ripped. I'll never be in that much of a hurry! When I went to latch the roof, it was way higher than normal. It latched, but there were big gaps here and there. At the front, back, and door. So I put it back up a couple feet and retucked the canvass all around the pup, pushing it in as far as my long arms could reach and making sure it wasn't bunched or folded. Put the top back down and latched it and it was perfect. In our haste the first time, we didn't have it tucked well enough. For the record, we leave our bedding on the bunks and it lowers and latches just fine.

[Artietude]

Okay - so I'm learning a lot on this thread. I'm a new RV owner of a 2019 1640ESP. I've already popped the tension wire off once (reattached) and then struggled with getting the cap all the way down (wasn't lowering it enough come to find out).

I can sympathize with the whole door thing. I noticed that the travel door gasket is cracking on both ends already and that the tracks that guide the big door have several staples not "all the way" in that causes the glider/runners to stop (I fixed that by gently tapping them in with a counter-punch).


My chief complaint has been the corners of the beds, where there is a snap. It seems like you have pull the beds out about 95% then connect the corner snaps and then pull it the rest of way. It seems to really stress the canvas on those corners, but per the dealer, that's the design. <shrug>


Still learning the whole leveling thing, I thought the jacks were more for leveling rather than stabilizing, but at the last campsite I was in, someone was pointing out that was not the case. I'm confused because what makes this the Extreme Sports Package if these are NOT some sort of heavy duty jacks (beside big-ass wheels)?

[jcbrock]

We've owned a couple of popups. The first was a 2006 Flagstaff and then we bought a 2018. I will say the canvas on the 2006 was much thicker and it was easier to close up than the 2018. One thing we learned, after carefully tucking in the canvas and lowering the roof, let it sit for a few minutes before trying to latch. It was easier for us once we did that.

Our door was another story. It was always a pain and took both of us to set it properly. We loved our popups, but all the set up and take down got old so we moved on to the TT in October 2018. We also bought a permanent lot to camp on, so it's just much easier in a hard side since we camp so often. We even camped at least once a month last winter.

Hope you work the bugs out and can enjoy your camper.

[HappyCamperCanada]

Originally Posted by bundy71

My wife and I are very disappointed with our 2018 1910 ESP. We purchased it almost one year ago, see thread here:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...5&share_type=t
One of the leveling feet for the dining table has fallen out, and I can not get it to catch the threads inside the leg.

One of the leveller knobs fell off my table too during transit. I think there's probably a nut inside the hollow table leg that came loose as is still inside. The leg has rubber end caps. When I get a chance I'm going to try and see if I can get the rubber end cap off and fish out the nut and screw the knob back on.

[backpacker3]

Since I have the Flagstaff version I thought I throw my two cents in.
Yes, we have had our problems with our P/U but I take that with a grain of salt. Every camper we have had has had some problem or another and we take them as they come. Our door maybe fits good 1 out 5 times we set the camper up. I have found that sometimes I place the door first and then velcro the door before doing the rest of the canvas, seems to fit better, not perfect but better. I always remove blankets and pillows before lowering roof, seems to allow more space for canvas to stuff in. I also adjust roof clamps just enough to close and latch them. I don't see any need to crank
them down so tight, they just pull them out. I do place a padlock thru one of the latches as a precaution. Never have the roof come loose while traveling. As for the velcro, I stick my fingers in-between the velcro and slide them along the bunk ends and they separate nicely. The snaps on the bunk end are the things I attach first, they are a little hard to snap and unsnap.I did have some stitching come loose on the front bunk end but I know that taking it to the dealer was a no go. They are too busy, so they say. I used some dental floss and a large sewing needle and sewed it back together, looks good to me. They water filter canister was deformed and would not seal right, would blow off when water pump was turned on, took that bad boy out and put in a 6 inch x 1/2 inch pvc nipple and all fixed. See no need for water filter since we use treated water. I do use a filter at the water spigot when filling water tank. With my last P/U I did see that after a while the canvas seems to stretch some and becomes easier to attach. Had to replace roof cable because the one on the winch was installed wrong and it caused the roof to bounce up and down when raising or lowering, cable was frayed, brand new cable. Also took that that noisy electric winch off and put a manual crank on, the sleeping dead have thanked me for that. All in all, I take whatever problems I have, try to correct them and go camping with a cooler full of beer and enjoy ourselves. I forgot, the running lights would also fill up with water so I caulked all of them that the dealer did not do and no more water.
Hope you get your problems taken care of and continue to do the camping thing.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Artietude

Okay - so I'm learning a lot on this thread. I'm a new RV owner of a 2019 1640ESP. I've already popped the tension wire off once (reattached) and then struggled with getting the cap all the way down (wasn't lowering it enough come to find out).

I can sympathize with the whole door thing. I noticed that the travel door gasket is cracking on both ends already and that the tracks that guide the big door have several staples not "all the way" in that causes the glider/runners to stop (I fixed that by gently tapping them in with a counter-punch).


My chief complaint has been the corners of the beds, where there is a snap. It seems like you have pull the beds out about 95% then connect the corner snaps and then pull it the rest of way. It seems to really stress the canvas on those corners, but per the dealer, that's the design. <shrug>


Still learning the whole leveling thing, I thought the jacks were more for leveling rather than stabilizing, but at the last campsite I was in, someone was pointing out that was not the case. I'm confused because what makes this the Extreme Sports Package if these are NOT some sort of heavy duty jacks (beside big-ass wheels)?

Using the jacks for leveling will place more stress on the jacks and the frame. Many times the frame will distort in the middle of the sides because the jacks lift on the corners.


Popups and small trailers built for off-road use will generally have an axle and spring setup that gives higher ground clearance. It doesn't necessarily mean the frame is built heavier. Some, depending on what you ordered will have solar packages installed, dual batteries, or a larger holding tank for water. If you bought new from what was on the dealers lot it is what they ordered for their stock.

[backpacker3]

Try this for the snap button on each bunk end. There are two zippers on each bunk by the roof support, unzip the zipper about half way up. This should give you plenty of canvas to snap it. Be careful when you zip back up as not to pull zipper apart. I also do this on the door, put door in and velcro sides then zip up canvas. Works for me and may work for someone else.

[DrakeGuy]

Wow, nice to know I'm not the only one. I have the 2017 1910 ESP. The only thing that makes it "Extreme" is they flipped the axle over and installed a slightly larger all terrain tire on it. That and it's grey and has a roof rack for those "EXTREME!" campers who like to do "EXTREME!" things like carry canoes or bikes on top of their camper.

My water filter doesn't quite snug down all the way and leaks, the mid roller that the bed slides over was installed crooked, my green tension wire pulled out the second time I opened it. I was trying out the cable lock under the front and the locking head part came off the cable and the cable zipped back into the house never to be seen again. The propane regulator was only half secured to the trailer, the caulking around the front storage bin door has failed and doesn't seal. The weatherstrip on top of the small travel door tore off after three days. The veneer siding on the inside wall is peeling off in a couple of spots. The key to the small travel door doesn't work in the main door and I have no way to unlock it. The second time I took it out I bent a leaf spring.

I could probably keep going but it's all just to say these things are built cheap and need to be handled delicately.