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Old 11-04-2011, 02:29 PM   #11
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Location: Camano Island, Washington
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putting antifreeze in the FW tank is not necessary nor in the water heater.
this wastes a lot of AF and it will take you lots of flushing to get the taste out of the water.
winterizing is done mainly for the smaller water lines that can burst from any water in them freezing.
both the WH and the FW tank have room for the ice expanding, if there is a little water remaining. same thing for the holding tanks.

the AF in the FW tank will leave a bad taste for a long time.
that's why winterizing kits tap right into the pump, bypassing the FW tank. they are meant to avoid putting AF in the FW tank.

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Old 11-04-2011, 05:26 PM   #12
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So i went and got 4 more gallons of antifreeze, and now my FW tank is clearly full. I go to turn on the pump, and again it turns on, i can hear it, but nothing is being pumped to the faucet. I am going crazy, I can't figure out what is going on. This is a brand new 2012 rockwood popup so i know there are no leaks. I have attached pictures of my FW tank filled with AF and also my hot water bypass showing the knobs in bypass position.

The only thing i can think of is that I have not drained my hot water tank, but i did let air into it since I was planning on draining it, but I am waiting on a 1 1'16th socket from a friend. Is it possible that my letting the air in and not pulling the hot water heater plug that this is causing the pump not to bring water to the faucet?


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Old 11-05-2011, 07:39 AM   #13
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Location: Windsor, Ontario
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Originally Posted by Triguy View Post

Does your FR manual actually recommend adding AF to the FW tank or are they just saying ..."if you choose to do it this way"?
The FR owners manual gives instructions to winterize the TT 2 ways.

#1. Winterizing with compressed air (if you have bypass kit installed).

#2. Winterizing with AF only (which includes filling FW with AF).

Pages 48-49 to be exact.

I think it is because of this that I did not worry too much about adding it to the FW, and also because we never drink the TT water.

As for the OP and his problems, I also was confused by the bypass levers that were around my water pump, and I was not sure which one closed off the AF outlet or the FW supply, (or if they even did that )as I could not follow the hose up far enough to see without pulling the floor apart.

Check these 2 levers, maybe that is why you are not able to pump AF.
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:35 AM   #14
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Location: Bedford, IN
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The 3 way valve in kits thats used to put anti-freeze at the fresh water pump can be a problem. Just use the tubing/connector and hook to inlet side of pump. The valve can allow air into inlet (noisy). It happened to me, tried tightening fittings, teflon tape on threads, assumed air entering around valve stem. Removed valve; pump was quieter and better flow. Its best to keep it simple sometimes.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:58 AM   #15
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My suggestion: Leave ALL taps and faucets CLOSED. Then turn on the power to activate the water pump and let it run until it pressurizes the system and shuts off by itself. Then open the taps and faucets one at a time until the pink stuff comes out of each one, then close that one and go to the next one - repeat with each. If the water pump will not shut off automatically, you have an open tap/faucet somewhere OR you have a leak somewhere that is not letting the system pressurize.

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Old 11-05-2011, 05:49 PM   #16
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I was finally given guidance by my local RV dealership and have fixed the problem. The water pump just needed to be primed with another tube dumping water directly into the pump as some of you stated. This worked and i have officially winterized my camper bymyself for the first time, woot!

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