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Old 06-01-2015, 09:17 AM   #1
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Will Battery power the winch up and down once?

I am thinking of boondocking with my boys this summer and was thinking of taking the pop up instead of a tent. It will be so much better to get off the ground.

I have a power winch so I am scared of the inability to close it up if I do not have sufficient power.

My thought is to raise the roof; disconnect the battery; re-connect the battery to lower the roof when the weekend is over. I will treat the pop up as a tent.

Has anyone ever tried this? I am scared to get stranded. Would the connection to the TV help? Possibly use jumper cables also?

I have a single 24 battery that came stock.

Thoughts?

Vin.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:25 AM   #2
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If you have the 12V aux pin in the Bargman connector powered ( some TV have the 12V aux pin wired up but do not install the fuse for it to save a buck) then you can always connect the TV and it will power the jack. Be careful not to depend on the TV battery for too much unless you are suing th vehicle daily. Most TV charge very slowly when just idling.
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:51 AM   #3
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You have a Tahoe, drive either in tow haul mode or with the HEADLAMPS turned On. That will cause the PCM to keep the generator charging at a higher level than if tow haul is not selected or headlamps are off (daytime anyway). Normally, the PCM sees the TV's battery charged after a while, notes the needed load and drops output down considerably. With tow haul selected or Headlights On, PCM keeps the boost up. (GM, can't speak for others.)

And yes, check to make sure the wire is connected and if a fuse is installed. I ran into that problem with my 2013, the wires were disconnected from the factory, dealer didn't connect (strange, the fuse was there), I didn't check, I ran the DC fridge from UT to Glacier and guess what....both batteries were dead. it was hot, I was hotter (and a bit peed off; ok REALLY peed off), so I just got out the ratchet and drill to raised the roof, and when it was allowed, connected the generator and charged things back up. Next day, I spent some time in a small town's auto parts store, getting nuts to connect the wires to the correct posts.

As for the battery...yes, should be NO problem. In my driveway, rather than spend five or more minutes to connect my batteries, I sometimes use a jump box to raise and lower the roof. One day, I probably raised and lowered the roof a half dozen times when I was adjusting the winch limit switches and the motor never appeared to slow.

The jump box is a dedicated jump box; now one of those that have a built in air compressor/light and from past experience, it allowed me to crank over an H1 diesel engine for about a hour when troubleshooting a starting problem. (I now travel with the jump box; I have never used it on a trip, but have helped out others with similar problems.)

And you should not get stranded. It was pointed out to me, that the newer power winches have a manual bolt to allow lower/raise without power. Just make sure you have a power drill with the correct socket (and extension if needed) for those just in case things that do happen with power winches.
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:24 AM   #4
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Ah yes. The cordless power drill. I was not thinking of that. I carry a cheap 3/8" plug in drill with a socket for that simple reason when I am camping at CG's with shore power. I suppose I can simply bring along my 18V cordless drill with spare battery to assist as well.

Thanks for the post.

When I installed my brake controller, I followed the e-trailer video for a 2013 suburban I believe. That video had me connect two wires to posts on the fuse box in the engine compartment. I am not sure which was which or what they were for. I too had to buy nuts to mount them as GM does not provide them. So maybe it is connected as you say.

I feel better now. Thanks,

Vin.
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:56 PM   #5
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I've been in that situation before....pup battery died, and I didn't feel like hand-cranking the roof down. So I backed up the truck, hooked up the harness, started the truck engine (powering the 12v charge system) and then lowered the roof. This worked for me, is it hard on the charging system or causes some other difficulty?
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:33 PM   #6
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Winch

Consider a portable solar panel and second battery
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Old 06-01-2015, 02:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinmaker View Post
Ah yes. The cordless power drill. I was not thinking of that. I carry a cheap 3/8" plug in drill with a socket for that simple reason when I am camping at CG's with shore power. I suppose I can simply bring along my 18V cordless drill with spare battery to assist as well.

Thanks for the post.

When I installed my brake controller, I followed the e-trailer video for a 2013 suburban I believe. That video had me connect two wires to posts on the fuse box in the engine compartment. I am not sure which was which or what they were for. I too had to buy nuts to mount them as GM does not provide them. So maybe it is connected as you say.

I feel better now. Thanks,

Vin.

One of those two wires is for the power to electric brake controller that you added; the other was for the power to the rear trailer harness to the trailer. So if connected, you should be ok. Easy to check with a voltmeter if you want further assurance.
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:47 PM   #8
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I have just picked up a used 2514g, yr 2009.

Does anyone know if this model year's electric winch has a manual bolt 3/8" hex head for manual activation when the battery is dead? I don't want to get stranded.
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:26 PM   #9
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Probably the same as my winch, a 7/16" socket.
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:36 PM   #10
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There is nothing obvious on the outside of the cover though. Took it apart pretty good and still nothing.

Would have thought it would jump out at me if it were there. And would have thought they wouldn't make a winch in 2009 without a hex head manual means of raising/lowering.
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