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Old 10-26-2013, 09:50 AM   #11
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Summer = hot valve open, cold valve open, valve across water heater = closed

Winterization mode = hot valve closed, cold valve closed, valve across water heater= open

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Old 10-26-2013, 09:59 AM   #12
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Use a air compressor. Hook it up to your city hook up then build pressure up to 20# no more then open up one value at a time then do that as many times it takes to get all the water out..When done take the screen out of the city hook up and press the value in back up bc you will get wet.Then run your antifreeze in

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Old 10-26-2013, 10:48 AM   #13
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Location: South Eastern PA
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Originally Posted by Netcomdude View Post
Just did mine this past week. I'm sure I got everything but we have different equipment. Start with the low point drains. Pull both caps.Let everything drain. Do you have a 6 gallon water heater. Mine is a Suburban. There is a 1 1/16 nut that is on the the face. Pull that to drain the water heater. There are great "You Tube" videos that other owners post on "how to" for your specific model. Just remember if you introduce RV antifreeze into the system, don't let it enter the water heater as it is corrosive to the inside of it. The valves typically are on the cold water input and hot water output to the water heater with a bypass valve in between. Close off the input and output. Open the bypass. Let me know if this helps.
FYI - Do not drain the hot water tank through the low point drains.
ALWAYS bypass before you drain the system to keep hot water tank "crud" out of your pipes.

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Old 10-26-2013, 11:15 AM   #14
Join Date: Oct 2013
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This is true. I had a lot of sediment in mine. Good point. Anode rod was about 1/3 gone. Only took it out about 6 or 7 times as I bought it new at the end of the season. Think it sat a year on the lot. I'm sure there is nothing in the plumbing as the low point drains are close to the water heater and lower than all the rest of the plumbing. I cleaned the water heater out with a plastic wand with the drains open. But, your right. I won't do that next year.

Too bad there's no exact step by step instructions for every make and model that is made

I've watched countless videos and I never knew that the cold (city water) inlet has a built in check valve that needs to be depressed after the silt screen was removed to get anti freeze up the 2 foot section of pipe from the outside hook up to where it connects to the pump. Ran into that tip last night watching yet another video and someone here said something about it too.

Guess I missed that, but will fix it today. Have an extra gallon of pink!

Thanks for the tip!

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