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Old 12-31-2017, 11:15 AM   #1
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2 Six volt batteries

Is there a correct sequence to un-install and re-install two six volt batteries in my 5r? Is it ok to use a standard wrench or do I need something special? I want to make sure I don't do any damage.

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Old 12-31-2017, 11:29 AM   #2
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I just use a regular wrench and unhook the positive cable first, this is how I do it for all batteries, no special tools needed. When reinstalling perform in reverse hooking the positive up last.

If you pull your batteries out completely make sure you have the batteries connected to each other before connecting to the neg/pos cables of the camper.
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Old 12-31-2017, 11:50 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by tdhanses View Post
I just use a regular wrench and unhook the positive cable first, this is how I do it for all batteries, no special tools needed. When reinstalling perform in reverse hooking the positive up last.

If you pull your batteries out completely make sure you have the batteries connected to each other before connecting to the neg/pos cables of the camper.
Definitely not to question your abilities ~ but when you remove the positive cable first, do you ever see a spark between the cable & battery terminal?

I have always removed the negative terminal first, this removes the grounding effect, no spark from the positive terminal and isolates the battery power.

For twin batteries, I'd remove the negative cable which connects to the camper wiring, then disconnect the positive from the other battery which connects to the camper, then remove the jumper cable between the 2.

Reverse procedure when reinstalling the batteries. (sorry, edited for a 2 part question from the OP)

But, that's just how I'd do it.
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:08 PM   #4
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Good habit to do negative 1st, then there is no danger of wrench contacting ground, more revelent on cars with more metal around. Always be sure the wrench can't reach both terminals at the same time
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:09 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by extxn View Post
Definitely not to question your abilities ~ but when you remove the positive cable first, do you ever see a spark between the cable & battery terminal?

I have always removed the negative terminal first, this removes the grounding effect, no spark from the positive terminal and isolates the battery power.

For twin batteries, I'd remove the negative cable which connects to the camper wiring, then disconnect the positive from the other battery which connects to the camper, then remove the jumper cable between the 2.

Reverse procedure when reinstalling the batteries. (sorry, edited for a 2 part question from the OP)

But, that's just how I'd do it.
You will get the same spark from positive or negative if sufficient current is being drawn from batteries.
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:38 PM   #6
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As I reach for the popcorn ... I will support that if you remove the negative first ... you'll have no issue with your wrench creating fireworks because you swung it over to something metal while removing the positive.
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:53 PM   #7
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Negative first.
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:03 PM   #8
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NEG first as stated above. Use a box end wrench or socket wrench. Don't need any slip of the bolt accidents. No crescent/adjustable wrenches.
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llr View Post
Good habit to do negative 1st, then there is no danger of wrench contacting ground, more revelent on cars with more metal around. Always be sure the wrench can't reach both terminals at the same time
This.
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:43 PM   #10
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Ground leg first. In the old days we had pos. Ground equipment. If you want, tape your wrench first, protection never hurts.
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:43 PM   #11
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Always negative first.
You will get exact same spark on pos or neg. The spark means there is something drawing current. Clocks, CO2/CO monitors... The more current, the bigger the spark.
There are items that draw current all the time even with key off. If you have a main 12vdc disconnect and it is off and you still have spark, then your 12vdc main disconnect is not disconnecting everything.
If you have a DMM (Digital Multimeter... costs <$20) and you know how to use it for measuring current. (You have to move the red probe to 10A current plugin and put meter is series between battery terminal and disconnected battery connect wire), then you can measure this current. It should be less than 1 or 2 amps. If more than that it means you should check what is drawing the current. But a little spark is normal.
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:58 PM   #12
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You have a positive...a negative and a jumper cable between the 6
volt batts.
Remove the negative...then positive then jumper.
Install the new batts doing jumper, positive, negative.
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:36 PM   #13
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I have been a certified automotive technician for almost 50 years and an ASE Certified Master Technician for over 25 of those. When dealing with negative ground batteries (which includes almost everything above 1950 models), NEGATIVE FIRST Off and last on.
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extxn View Post
Definitely not to question your abilities ~ but when you remove the positive cable first, do you ever see a spark between the cable & battery terminal?

I have always removed the negative terminal first, this removes the grounding effect, no spark from the positive terminal and isolates the battery power.

For twin batteries, I'd remove the negative cable which connects to the camper wiring, then disconnect the positive from the other battery which connects to the camper, then remove the jumper cable between the 2.

Reverse procedure when reinstalling the batteries. (sorry, edited for a 2 part question from the OP)

But, that's just how I'd do it.
Truthfully not that I’m aware of but I don’t do it often but I’ve never had an issue doing it this way first. But Neg first makes sense.
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Old 12-31-2017, 03:06 PM   #15
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Actually positive ground was used up through the late sixties on British cars and US trucks White trucks for one.
Why were they pos. grd in the first place? Answer in the old days most insulation was cotton braid, and with moisture or fog same thing leakage would occur where wires passed close to metal and at that juncture corrosion would occur, positive ground prevented this. So what made the big switch to neg. grd. When transistors came along the electronics industry settled on the NPN transistor which required negative ground. With that invention and plastic insulation was available too. Sorry if you don’t care just thought you might be interested.
I also have been a auto tech for over fifty years and one of my hobbies is restoration of tube type radios and juke boxes. Some juke boxes are seen in my home shop picture on the mezzanine.
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Old 12-31-2017, 03:22 PM   #16
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For such a simple task, this is beginning to sound like rocket science!
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Old 12-31-2017, 03:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aircommuter View Post
Actually positive ground was used up through the late sixties on British cars and US trucks White trucks for one.
Why were they pos. grd in the first place? Answer in the old days most insulation was cotton braid, and with moisture or fog same thing leakage would occur where wires passed close to metal and at that juncture corrosion would occur, positive ground prevented this. So what made the big switch to neg. grd. When transistors came along the electronics industry settled on the NPN transistor which required negative ground. With that invention and plastic insulation was available too. Sorry if you don’t care just thought you might be interested.
I also have been a auto tech for over fifty years and one of my hobbies is restoration of tube type radios and juke boxes. Some juke boxes are seen in my home shop picture on the mezzanine.
Um, wow - reverse galvanic corrosion. I would not have considered that.
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Old 12-31-2017, 03:40 PM   #18
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Sorry like I said if you don’t care. I always shave wanted to know for everything because it helps me solve problems. I started into the electronics thing in the sixties with my older brother engineer later turned doctor.
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Old 12-31-2017, 03:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llr View Post
Good habit to do negative 1st, then there is no danger of wrench contacting ground, more revelent on cars with more metal around. Always be sure the wrench can't reach both terminals at the same time
X2. I learned the hard way. First time I changed batteries "POSITIVE FIRST" , I bumped the end of the end wrench against the METAL diamond plate and burned a hole right through my pretty splash guard. Negative FIRST AND LAST. That way no harm if the wrench touches when you are on the negative No Arc. If you touch when on the positive, no Arc because the battery is not grounded to the frame.
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Old 12-31-2017, 04:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Ground leg first. In the old days we had pos. Ground equipment. If you want, tape your wrench first, protection never hurts.
My 69 BSA motorcycle is positive "Earth"
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