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Old 04-25-2013, 10:36 AM   #41
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Let me add a real number for you. My 2013 Chevy 3500 Duramax extended-cab long-box has 3855 CCC.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:58 AM   #42
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According to the 2011 Chevy Brochure, my 2011 Chevy 2500 Crew Cab, 4X4 duramax has a payload of 3,123lbs. On the sticker, the rear axle is 6,200lbs. Max 5th wheel trailer weight is 16,700. I tow a 2012 Sierra 365SAQ with this truck. CAT scale receipt shows when I am loaded but without water rear axle at 6,040lbs, so I am under the sticker on my pickup, gross weight minus gross truck weight (when weighed separately) is 14,760 so I am under my max rating there as well. I also have the washer/dryer which sit in the front closet, basically right above the pin. The whirlpool books show they weigh a combined 272lbs, so that's going right on my pickup. Most 365saq owners I have seen commenting in other posts don't mention having upgraded to the washer/dryer which is saving them 272lbs and pin weight of that as well.

To answer the OP's question, I think if they plan accordingly, they will be fine. My pin weight is listed on my brochure as almost 200 pounds more then the 360qbok.

Lastly, if Brandon has a current trailer, weigh it now with all your gear loaded, but no water. Then weigh your pickup. The difference of the two will tell you how much stuff you have loaded in. You can use that as a guide as to how much youíre going to be carrying in the new 5th wheel. Itís not going to tell you how much the pin weight is going to be, but it will give you some numbers.

My dealership let us take the camper on a test drive before we purchased it. One could probably take it to the scale if you've got 10 bucks to blow, weigh it, and if you've already completed the exercise above, you know what your pickup weighs, so that will give you a good empty pinweight.

I hope some of these suggestions help.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:05 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
Please don't just conclude that if you need a 1-ton that it needs to be a dually. Going to a 1-ton adds about 1000# of payload, and going DRW adds another 1000#. If you need 1000 more, but not 2000 more, then you don't have to go dually!
Obviously we all have our own opinions .

Any thing being towed with high profile and 40' or more should be towed by a dually regardless if you need 1000 lbs more capacity or 2000 lbs capacity.

For example:
I have a 43' motorized roof ladder similar to what you might see on a fire truck to get high above the fire.

A 1/2 ton truck can tow it becuase its all aluminium but we CANNOT tow it with nothing less than a dually as it will take you ALL over the road with anything less.

This ladder has put a 1 ton srw in the ditch.

Get my point?


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Old 04-25-2013, 11:10 AM   #44
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I haven't towed my tailer with a dually, not sure I would even need one if we packed a little heavier. I think it's hard to say the "feeling" of towing with a 3/4 ton verses a 1ton, or 1ton dually if you haven't been able to pull the exact same trailer in the same situations with both vehicles. I think it would be neat to pull my camper with a 1ton, and see if it feels any different, but I have taken two family trips (aside from the weekend camping we do that's within an hour) at about 600 miles one way each time, and I feel totally confident in my pick-up, the handeling I receive from it, and how it performs pulling my camper. Sure.... I wish I had another 10grand to blow on a 1ton dually, but I have a couple problems. I spent $57,000 on this pickup brand new, that's a substantialy amount of cash, If I get a dually, I need to buy 6 tires when they go bad, not 4. It's not as easy to drive the pick-up around town, and since I spent $57,000 I cannot aford to also buy an additional car to drive around and let me pick-up sit in the garage, and 3rd... the garage. My DW would be upset if she rubbed her nice clothes on the "wide hips" - (as she calls them)" because though we have a nice wide, and deep 2 car garage, with the current pick-up and my wife's Honda Accord, there's just enough room to open doors between the two and them not touch or scratch.

When we retire, and travel all over the United States, I will get a beast of a pick-up. But right now, when I'm traveling within an hour or so from home every other weekend getting the max use out of our rig, and then taking 1... MAYBE 2 trips a year when we're traveling around 1,200 miles or so, we need to make do. I have weighed the pickup, using CAT scales, I have receipts for the truck (without camper) the camper empty (which was an exercise I needed to do to get my upgraded axles) and the camper loaded with all our normal gear. We're under the max weight ratings, so we're good for now, we don't have a lot of extra room... for the pin weight only. If I had the need to carry a lot of extra gear, I'd pack it in the bunkhouse to ensure I'm not putting extra weight on the pickup. Just my 2cents.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:14 AM   #45
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Total weight is the camper with all my stuff in it will be under the Max tow ratings. The rear and front gawr will be under also. The only thing that will be close is gvwr of the truck. We will have to see when I get it. Then maybe get a new truck out of the deal. The dealership say it will be fine but what do they know . I have always pulled gooseneck trailer with tractors with no problem and never given much thought to being overloaded until I started reading camper forums. I will just have to weigh everything when the camper comes in and go from there.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:16 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
Obviously we all have our own opinions .

Any thing being towed with high profile and 40' or more should be towed by a dually regardless if you need 1000 lbs more capacity or 2000 lbs capacity.

For example:
I have a 43' motorized roof ladder similar to what you might see on a fire truck to get high above the fire.

A 1/2 ton truck can tow it becuase its all aluminium but we CANNOT tow it with nothing less than a dually as it will take you ALL over the road with anything less.

This ladder has put a 1 ton srw in the ditch.

Get my point?

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Ok. I will amend my thoughts to allow for the case that you may need it for other reasons, and ask for you to admit that you may NOT need it in all cases.

My RV is 39' and 13'2" tall. I just towed it at highway speeds in 30mph crosswind and had no problems at all. I could tell there were crosswinds, but it wasn't even close to uncomfortable to drive.

Maybe there's some strange behavior when you're towing aluminum ladders ;-)
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:55 AM   #47
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Ok. I will amend my thoughts to allow for the case that you may need it for other reasons, and ask for you to admit that you may NOT need it in all cases.

My RV is 39' and 13'2" tall. I just towed it at highway speeds in 30mph crosswind and had no problems at all. I could tell there were crosswinds, but it wasn't even close to uncomfortable to drive.

Maybe there's some strange behavior when you're towing aluminum ladders ;-)
Agreed!


I can surely sum this whole thread up..


Just because we tow at or slightly above posted manufactures limits doesn't mean we should persuade someone to do the same because WE do it.

Some of you, like me may have 20+ years of towing experience where as brandon327 might not .
So given OUR experience should we tell someone of lesser experience "if that's the case or not" to go ahead with a "highly disputed towing scenario?


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Old 04-25-2013, 12:02 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post

Agreed!

I can surely sum this whole thread up..

Just because we tow at or slightly above posted manufactures limits doesn't mean we should persuade someone to do the same because WE do it.

Some of you, like me may have 20+ years of towing experience where as brandon327 might not .
So given OUR experience should we tell someone of lesser experience "if that's the case or not" to go ahead with a "highly disputed towing scenario?

Turbs
Which would be a great post over on that other thread...

I guess splitting these up into 2 wasn't as cut and dry as I had hoped.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:07 PM   #49
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Which would be a great post over on that other thread...

I guess splitting these up into 2 wasn't as cut and dry as I had hoped.
Keep up the good work!
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:34 PM   #50
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as the op said, he has a 40k mileage truck that is paid for. however, with those miles, i would think he would get around half what a new one cost and only have to finance 25k or so. i dont know what his finances are, and i can understand the sweet feeling of bliss at not having a truck payment. but since it is paid for i would think he could search to find a good deal on a used 1 ton, buy that and then sell his paid off truck and probably pay it off with the proceeds. he might even have some camping money left over to boot.
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