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Old 01-17-2013, 05:25 PM   #1
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5er pullers please help

I am sure from reading posts that I will love pulling my new 5er over my travel trailer. But can I get some help with specifics? I pulled a 30 ft travel trailer. My new 5er is just over 31ft. Will I need to swing even wider to turn a curve without running up on the curb? How is backing effected, do I need to pull up further before I do my large over-correction or about the normal 10 ft past the site. Does the fiver correct more quickly when I make an adjustment in backing? What is different except it pulls better? Thanks in advance for all the great feedback I know you can provide. JT
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:45 PM   #2
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I don't think you'll see too much difference between a 30' TT and and 31' 5W. The 5W will track more inside when turning and will be a little slower to react when backing up. After towing and backing in a few times, you'll be fine.

I'd be a good idea when you first get it is to head to an empty mall parking lot and do some practice manuevering. Try to turn at full lock to the left and right to ensure that you have clearance between the TV and camper.

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Old 01-17-2013, 05:47 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jtant View Post
I am sure from reading posts that I will love pulling my new 5er over my travel trailer. But can I get some help with specifics? I pulled a 30 ft travel trailer. My new 5er is just over 31ft. Will I need to swing even wider to turn a curve without running up on the curb? How is backing effected, do I need to pull up further before I do my large over-correction or about the normal 10 ft past the site. Does the fiver correct more quickly when I make an adjustment in backing? What is different except it pulls better? Thanks in advance for all the great feedback I know you can provide. JT
Your pivot point is closer so you'll have to learn all over to an extant.
Imo backing is much faster/easier.
Turning corners you may or may not have to swing wider "doubtfully" but there's a chance...

Take it to walmart and practice some .
Backing, pulling ahead, going around curbs.

It'll be similar to the tt you'll just have yto get used to the pivot in your bed and not on your bumper!

Good luck

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Old 01-17-2013, 06:18 PM   #4
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I went from 32 ft tt to a 42 ft 5er. Much better towing. You will just have to get use to the different pivot Pts.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:38 PM   #5
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While I was pretty good with a travel and boat trailer, I had to learn all over again with my 5th wheel.

I bought a large toy plastic tractor trailer at Kids Are Us (cheap) that had steerable wheels and used it so I could understand the dynamics of how the tractor related to the trailer when turning.

http://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Marine...ractor+trailer

That was all I needed to get a LOT better. Practice backing will make you an old hand before you know it.

You can also make a cardboard pickup truck and camper (in 2D) and pin them together at the king pin point. Same idea.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:19 PM   #6
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Like others above JT, go to a big parking lot and practice. That's the best way to get the feel for everything, especially the backing though. Once you do it a few times, you'll get the hang of it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:25 PM   #7
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i find the 5th wheel easier to manuever than old tt. both about the same (5er is 31 ft, tt was 30). 5er tracks closer to what the truck is doing compared to tt. backing is both faster and easier as turbs noted.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:44 PM   #8
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I agree with others that the fifth wheel is much easier to back and park than a TT.

If you have a short bed pickup, make sure you get a slider hitch. It will make tight backing much easier.

If you have a short bed pickup and are pulling with your slider in the forward position (which you should always be unless you are parking), make sure you don't cut too sharp when turning or you'll be at the body shop repairing your cab corner on your truck and replacing your back glass. (Or so I've been told. Haven't done it myself, but have been warned by others who have.)

Be aware of a condition known as "chocking", whereby when you hit a significant bump in the road, like you may hit as you approach a bridge or other uneven spot in the pavement and the front of the trailer starts to jump up and down. Note that your trailer is solidly hitched to your truck, so the back of the truck will do the same thing, making driving a bit scary for a few seconds. I put a set of Firestone Ride-Rite air bags on my truck, and it took most of the "chocking" effect away. I've seen 5ers with the air shocks on the kingpin box that would probably help with that, too. However, if you do neither, just slowing down as you approach uneven pavement will take care of it.

Make sure that you have a positive latch. In other words, look at your latch and make sure it is firmly closed around your kingpin before you try to pull. Otherwise, you'll be replacing the bedsides on your truck. (Again, something I've seen and filed away in my "don't want to do that" folder.)

As others have noted, your 5er will track more to the inside as you corner than the TT did. That takes a bit of getting used to, but after you pull it a few times, you'll be an old pro at it.

I went from a 34' TT to a 40' 5er. I was pretty nervous at first, but after about my second or third trip with it, I got used to it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:48 PM   #9
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Hook up the 5er and go! you will not be disappointed! Everyone said 5ers tow better and they really do.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:49 PM   #10
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Keep this in mind. Now that you have a fiver that most likely is 12+ feet high, have a keen second set of eyes on overhead obstacles like tree branches and gas station overhangs. Hitting one of those will ruin your whole day.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:08 PM   #11
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Keep this in mind. Now that you have a fiver that most likely is 12+ feet high, have a keen second set of eyes on overhead obstacles like tree branches and gas station overhangs. Hitting one of those will ruin your whole day.
Good point. My fiver has the second A/C unit above the front bedroom, making it 12'6" high. I pulled in a Sam's the day I bought the thing to get diesel and hit the A/C on the sign displaying the maximum vehicle height, lol. Lucky they had it there, because otherwise I would have been down to one A/C unit if I'd pulled on up to the pumps.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:34 AM   #12
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I went from a 28ft TT to a 35ft 5ver just last week. I had never towed or backed up a 5ver before and towing was a lot easier. I found that it does track a bit more on the inside turns but nothing too bad. Backing up I found to be easier but it did take me awhile to back the 5ver down the side of my house which is only 10ft wide. I found that I have to pivot the trailer sooner so I can back it down the side of the house instead of pivoting the TT at the last minute. Once I figured that out it was easy.

One thing I noticed and I might get around it the more I back it up, but in narrow areas, its not as easy to get the trailer to move over to either side. But then again, I am backing mine into a fairly tight area.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:10 AM   #13
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I agree with all the posts..... going forward is much easier, backing took a little more getting adjusted to but one time did it. I currently own 5 trailers (only for fun) everything from a 10 foot long box trailer to a 35 ft 5er toyhauler......... I always have to adust from one to the other but I can tell you I would rather back up the 35' toyhauler than the 10 long box or open trailer. Just practice & you will never want to go back to a bumper pull.................
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:09 AM   #14
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One thing a friend told me for my first 5er backing has been very helpful. It's better/easier to start the angle between the tow & trailer while you're still driving forward. If you're backing into a slot on the passenger side, while still going forward, make a sharp turn to the left side of the road, and then straighten out. Your trailer will now be at an angle to the tow, and if you timed it right, the rear of the trailer is now ready to back into the slot.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:35 AM   #15
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Ditto to most of what's been said already...I went from a 30 TT to a 35 FW and found it very easy to adjust to the change. That said, I will offer 2 additional observations for what they are worth:
  1. I find myself turnning the wheel alot more to make back-up position adjustments. I don't think I would have even been too aware of this if it were not for a increase in the number and depths of the truck tire 'ruts' that I'm now digging in my side lawn while parking at the end of a trip.
  2. As reviously mentioned be aware of your height. I'm ok going under signs, overpasses, etc,..anything that is labled but what for tree branches. Almost lost my antenna the last time out.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:22 PM   #16
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Ditto to most of what's been said already...I went from a 30 TT to a 35 FW and found it very easy to adjust to the change. That said, I will offer 2 additional observations for what they are worth:
  1. I find myself turnning the wheel alot more to make back-up position adjustments. I don't think I would have even been too aware of this if it were not for a increase in the number and depths of the truck tire 'ruts' that I'm now digging in my side lawn while parking at the end of a trip.
  2. As reviously mentioned be aware of your height. I'm ok going under signs, overpasses, etc,..anything that is labled but what for tree branches. Almost lost my antenna the last time out.
same here, I took mine into the city and drove all around (nerve racking) but I learned a lot about how it handles in tight crowded strip malls and city streets. I would never do that with the TT. mine is 39 ft overall
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:39 PM   #17
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I find my fifth wheel is much easier to drive then my old 33 foot travel trailer. Going forward, as most have already stated, it is like night and day. My fifth wheel is like it is not even back there when I am on the highway. Turning is a little different but you will find it easier. Where I needed to do some learning on was backing mine up. It does track differently then the travel trailer and you need to begin turning out of a turn, when backing, earlier. Go on youtube and check out some of the clips on backing up a semi. It is the same concept and helped me.
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:09 PM   #18
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It's the whole "different pivot point" thing that took my wife and I a bit to understand. I mean, it's obvious that the hitch is in the bed vs. behind the truck, but turning that to real world understanding took some time. It finally made sense when someone said the obvious - the trailer won't turn until the hitch moves. On a bumper-pull, the hitch point moves almost immediately with a turn since the back of the truck moves side ways opposite to the front. On a FW, the hitch point doesn't move until the truck has moved backwards a few feet and the turn is underway. Meaning, the trailer won't start turning right away - you need some lead time before it does.

I have posted here before, getting tips and advice. The rest is practice... Basically, I found that I would basically waggle the truck this way and that, over-correcting on each side. Like camper1999 said, you need to begin turning out of a turn earlier when backing. I didn't realize this and would end up over turning on one side, to turn the wheel a ton the other way and would do it on that side.

Just takes patience and practice. Unfortunately, I have a lot of the first and not much time for the latter - so my "practice" is generally in the campground, providing as MUCH entertainment as possible to all around me.

For turning when going forwards - my dealer took me for a test drive before sending me off with my camper. Their tech sat shotgun and gave me tips since I was coming from a pop-up. The best thing he told me with ensuring that I wouldn't hop curbs is to watch the trailer tires - once they pass whatever obstacle there is, you can cut the wheel as sharp as needed. It gave me a good judge for how *wide* of a turn I needed to make.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:23 PM   #19
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Thanks for all the replies the information will be a great start guess I could use some hitch up pointers also. I have read about something called high hitching and I am really interested in the device to prevent the hitch from coming out and dropping in the bed. Learned so much from the replies thank you all again. I am to be at the dealership tomorrow at nine to start the hitch install. The camper walk through is scheduled for about one and a couple of hours later I will be headed home. I am nervous, excited, scared, and dozens of other emotions. Don't turn short and hit the curd. Don't drive under something short and destroy your AC. Remember the pivot point is closer and responds slower when backing. This doesn't sound easier then my tt.
Thanks for everything JT.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:28 PM   #20
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I am sure others will chime in, but here is my procedure.

Back up to the trailer making sure that your tailgate is down or off and, at least on my hitch, I pull the hitch lever out to put the locking jaws out of the way to accept the king pin, your hitch may vary on this. The hitch plate of the trailer should be slightly ( 1/2 to 1 inch or so) lower than the flat area of the hitch plate in the tow vehicle. The trailer hitch should "climb" the angled portion of the tow vehicle hitch to rest on the flat area. This prevents "high pinning" or "high hitching". Visually inspect the hitch from the rear confirming that the king pin is captured by the jaws of the hitch and that the hitch is in the locked position. Plug in the light/brake cable, then raise the landing gear just until the pads are an inch or so above the ground (or blocks if used). Then either leave the wheel chocks under the trailer wheels or use the brake controller to apply just the trailer brakes and try to ease away. If properly hitched, the tow rig will not move. If it does, the trailer will only drop an inch or so before the landing gear pads touch the ground or blocks. This prevents the trailer from dropping down onto the truck box. Once the hitch up is verified, turn on the 4 way flashers and do a walk around to check lights. This will activate the bulb elements used for turn signals and brake lights. Then turn the 4 way flashers off and turn on the park lights to check the remaining bulb elements. I use these walk arounds to verify that all storage doors are closed and locked, check the entry door, tv antenna, rear stabilizers if so equipped, tires and rims of both the trailer and tow vehicle, items tied onto the rear of the trailer or on a rear platform and just a general look over to make sure that both rigs are ready for travel.

I know, kind of a long post, but you get the idea. You will most certainly develop your own routine to make sure that things are ready for travel.

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