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Old 03-26-2015, 08:40 PM   #1
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air conditioner delay time on a 2014 sabre 33ckts

Hi all

we just purchased a 2014 sabre 33ckts and would like to know if anyone knows if the ac is has a built in time delay from factory.

Thanks and happy camping!!!
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:09 AM   #2
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Curious why you ask?

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Old 03-27-2015, 04:24 PM   #3
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purchased a progressive ind. surge protector unit and apparently their is setting on it for either a 15 sec delay or a 2 min or so delay
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Old 03-27-2015, 04:36 PM   #4
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Yes correct

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Old 03-27-2015, 04:59 PM   #5
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Does my AC have a delay start? I have read a lot on this subject and I'm not at all getting educated on the subject just confused. Some say the new ones do and then someone will chime in and says that the delay is in the thermostat. I've read about how to test them to see if they have a delay and someone will say the thermostat is 12 volts and is powered off the battery so the test won't tell you if the AC or thermostat has a delay. I sure hope you get your answer. I called my HVAC guy to service my GEOTHERMAL Water Source Heat Pump, I will be asking him what he knows about this delay.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:33 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by kholmes View Post
purchased a progressive ind. surge protector unit and apparently their is setting on it for either a 15 sec delay or a 2 min or so delay
You should set it to 2 min time delay. Every stat has a time delay in it but if you do not lose 12 volt it will not reset. Pretty easy to tell if your stat has it. Turn it off and then back on to cool and drop the temp. Should have about 11/2 min time delay in it, but then your breaking the 12 volt not like if you lost 110 volt, because you still have 12 volt to the stat from the battery . The longer the delay the more time it has to equalize. in other words if you power pops of then on the stat will call for cooling already no time delay. It will shut off on over load, High and the low side have to equalize.
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Old 03-27-2015, 07:39 PM   #7
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totally agree with gljurczyk. I'm likely going with the longer delay to be on the safe side. Hoping to get a progressive real soon, but first I need to figure out in my head how I'm going to get it behind my my electrical control panel and hook everything up.
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Old 03-27-2015, 11:01 PM   #8
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Thanks for the replies folks
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Old 03-28-2015, 02:18 PM   #9
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Delay for AC

I agree that if you maintain 12 volt power to the thermostat during a 120 volt power out the thermostat will not recognize the power out condition, and will call for AC without any delay. I don't know what it will do if you lose 12 volt power, but I picked up a Progressive EMSPT50C unit that I really trust to keep my AC's and rig safe. Keep in mind that when you first connect the unit to shore power it will treat it as if there were a power outage and start cycling through to see if the correct power is present now. After about 2 1/2 minutes of analyzing the system and delay, it will restore 120 volt power to the RV if all is well. I have also used it in some of the older parks to check if the shore power is good, even before I unhook. I have had two instances were it told me the power was less than 103 volts one of the legs, something that will damage the AC and your electronics. I went to the office and changed sites to one that had good power readings. Get a Progressive unit (or similar) and you will feel a LOT better about protection for your rig. At $350 it isn't a cheap item, but it is way cheaper than a new AC compressor if you lock it up.
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:15 PM   #10
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I agree that if you maintain 12 volt power to the thermostat during a 120 volt power out the thermostat will not recognize the power out condition, and will call for AC without any delay. I don't know what it will do if you lose 12 volt power, but I picked up a Progressive EMSPT50C unit that I really trust to keep my AC's and rig safe. Keep in mind that when you first connect the unit to shore power it will treat it as if there were a power outage and start cycling through to see if the correct power is present now. After about 2 1/2 minutes of analyzing the system and delay, it will restore 120 volt power to the RV if all is well. I have also used it in some of the older parks to check if the shore power is good, even before I unhook. I have had two instances were it told me the power was less than 103 volts one of the legs, something that will damage the AC and your electronics. I went to the office and changed sites to one that had good power readings. Get a Progressive unit (or similar) and you will feel a LOT better about protection for your rig. At $350 it isn't a cheap item, but it is way cheaper than a new AC compressor if you lock it up.
I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on a progressive 50 amp hardwired EMS, but I want to make sure I could find a location for it. The more thought I put into it, I believe a portable one like yours might be a better choice. Factory can't void the warranty, because I won't be modifying the wiring. How are you locking it up to keep it from growing legs and walking off? Also do you cover it to keep it out of the weather? thanks
rvsafety.net is where I was going to order the hardwired one for $305.00 and they also have the portable 50 EMS for $315.00. $10.00 more without the pain of installing.
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gashog View Post
I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on a progressive 50 amp hardwired EMS, but I want to make sure I could find a location for it. The more thought I put into it, I believe a portable one like yours might be a better choice. Factory can't void the warranty, because I won't be modifying the wiring. How are you locking it up to keep it from growing legs and walking off? Also do you cover it to keep it out of the weather? thanks
rvsafety.net is where I was going to order the hardwired one for $305.00 and they also have the portable 50 EMS for $315.00. $10.00 more without the pain of installing.
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Old 03-28-2015, 11:51 PM   #12
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...How are you locking it up to keep it from growing legs and walking off? Also do you cover it to keep it out of the weather?...
gashog:

We bought a padlock (actually 3) big enough to go around the cord part of our portable surge device (and AC supply cord) but small enough it won't come past the cord ends. Padlock needs to be just big enough to allow a piece of chain to be slipped onto the hasp before it is locked onto the cord. We can then chain the AC cord to the surge device & chain the surge device to the pedestal box using the door hasp or any other nearby fixed object. I suppose you could chain the cord to the RV tire, bumper or frame if need be.

It's sad that such measures have to be taken these days.
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:10 AM   #13
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Smile Progressive portable unit

Gashog, I like the portable unit better on several points but the reason you pointed out is very valid, your not going to be touching the RV wiring so there can't be an issue with warranty. The units come with a metal collar on the power wire; it is a thick flat metal plate between the box and the plug; it cannot be removed without cutting the wire and it isn't going to be easy to cut at all. I bought a 3' section of hardened chain and one of those round locks that do not leave any hasp open for cutting. Once plugged in I chain it closely to the shore power post right under their power box. It can't be slid up the post that way. 95% of the time we are in camp grounds that I have absolutely no worries about, but the 5% is the time I like my chain. Also, with the portable, you already have it for your next RV, and you don't even have to pull in to check the power. The Progressive units are rated for use outdoors and mine has been in several rainstorms without issue. They tell you it is water proof, but not to submerge it. I am thinking that if it gets submerged while connected to my shore power post I have several other issue even more important, such as my RV does not have life preservers on board. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ilies/wink.gif
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