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Old 09-20-2012, 01:10 AM   #1
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Another problem discovered with our 310rs

We've had a slight drip from our hot water drain hose under the Columbus.
Started to take the cap off and discovered the hose is under pressure and the position of the bypass lever in the water compartment makes no difference.

I'm baffled about what kind of plumbing mistake this one is. With winter approaching I sure don't want water in that tube freezing and bursting the drain hose.

The only way to depressurize the hot water drain hose is to turn off the city water hose.
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:36 AM   #2
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Good news. The trailer is fine, wrong f-stop! The drains, which are properly called low point drains, are to remove water from the water lines. To drain the lines you must first turn off the water supply, including the water pump. (Otherwise it is like trying to drain a hose with the water running!) Open your faucets to relieve trapped pressure in the system and to allow air to enter the line(s) as the water drains. Remove cap.

I think you are speaking of a water heater bypass system when you mention a bypass lever. If so, this causes the water supply to the water heater to bypass (go around instead of through) the water heater. This allows the water heater to be drained (separate procedure) so that the water system can be winterized (another separate procedure) without having to fill the water heater with 6-10 gallons of antifreeze. Note that the water in the hot water line remains under pressure as long as there is an active water supply.

I bypass, and kill all power to the water heater, before draining the lines or the heater.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:54 AM   #3
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A word of caution. Always be sure the water in the water heater is cool or cold before draining it otherwise you run the risk of scalding yourself. When winterizing I turn off the water heater and then open a hot water faucet in the trailer so that cold water replaces the hot in the tank. Then you can turn your water off and relieve the pressure in the water heater by lifting up on the pressure relief valve on the heater before draining.

BTW, if you try to remove the anode rod on a pressurized water tank you will quickly discover the basic principle of thrust.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:31 AM   #4
Columbus 302 rs
 
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You can tell I'm a total newby. I put teflon tape on the hose cap and that should stop the dripping. Now I need to think about freezing in winter.

Thanks for the education, this forum is a fantastic resource for us beginners because of the wonderful members.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:07 PM   #5
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Glad we could help. Search for information on "winterizing". Stop worrying about freezing in the winter. The basic idea is that you bypass and drain the water heater. Then you drain the water lines, and pump in nontoxic RV antifreeze. You also drain the fresh water tank, and dump and rinse the holding tanks. It really helps to do these things before the first hard freeze in your area. Problem solved! No water, no freezie.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oakman View Post
BTW, if you try to remove the anode rod on a pressurized water tank you will quickly discover the basic principle of thrust.
Been there, done that, some lessons are learned the hard way.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:41 PM   #7
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You are going to think we are crazy, but not only are we newby's but we are also full-timers. I will need to think about those exposed tubes this winter.
I have some ideas but if anyone else has solutions they like lay it on me.

Thanks
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:59 PM   #8
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My solution is to move where it doesn't freeze...at least not a hard freeze! We are in CA, AZ, very southern TX in the winter...solves the water pipe issues!
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:44 PM   #9
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That's a great solution, but work keeps me in cooler climates at least for this winter. But love your method.
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:56 PM   #10
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sorry I couldn't be more help with the winterizing issue
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