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11-06-2014, 01:09 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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Brake problem 2013 Columbus 320RS (Electrical?)
After living with recurring brake problems on my Columbus 320 I finally changed out the brakes and put new seals, brakes, magnets and packed wheel bearings. Still not satisfiyed with the brakes and after checking the voltage to the brakes, it reads 10.2 volts. I thought someone said it should be 12.2 volts. If so, what and where do I look next? Brakes just don't seem to be applying hard enough when stopping.
"totally frustrated" 
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11-06-2014, 01:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 259
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From what I was told it should read 12volts... Is the controller set to full power?? Did you check all your grounds?
__________________
2010 Georgetown 300FWSSouth Florida
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11-06-2014, 02:07 PM
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#3
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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You didn't mention adjusting the brakes?
BTW over the years I've found once you've adjusted them you have to go back and adjust them a few more times to get them "right"
I adjusted my sabre brakes not long ago after the trip, they seemed "ok" I then had to go back once again and gave them even more.
Now they'll rip your head off at full power!
BTW you have the same axles and brakes I have.
Turbs
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11-06-2014, 03:13 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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We did adjust the brakes and we're sure they are within "grabbing" distance of the drum. So in order to check out the controllerer, we by-passed the controller in my 2012 F250 and hooked up a new controller (can't remmber the name) and had the same problem. I'm guessing there's a ground problem because the 10.2 volts was coming from the shops trailer hook up. (a device that you plu the trailer into the shop tester without a truck) So, if it's a ground problem where do I start looking?
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11-06-2014, 03:15 PM
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#5
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Start at your connections behind your backing plate and move forward.
The use cheap ass scotch locks that are a wiring no no!
Turbs
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11-06-2014, 03:19 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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I don't understand "backing plate". Please explain. What are scotch locks? Are they the screw on wire connectors vs the crimp connectors?
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11-06-2014, 04:11 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Komoka Ontario
Posts: 2,680
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Sounds like you are experiencing resistance, have you checked the voltage at the truck plug, if it is ok start from there back to the axles cleaning all connections or replace them.
__________________
"Well that didn't go as expected"
2015 Chev 2500HD Highcountry Duramax
Cedar Creek Silverback 33IK
Donald&Casey cairn terrier
Rest in Peace Mary my darling wife.
Scottish by birth Canadian by time.
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11-06-2014, 04:14 PM
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#8
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.z
I don't understand "backing plate". Please explain. What are scotch locks? Are they the screw on wire connectors vs the crimp connectors?
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Backing plate and scotch locks.
Turbs
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11-07-2014, 10:55 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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f1100 Turbo - thanks for the drawing. Don't know why I didn't understand backing plate - must have been a brain fart!
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11-07-2014, 10:59 AM
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#10
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.z
f1100 Turbo - thanks for the drawing. Don't know why I didn't understand backing plate - must have been a brain fart!
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Your fine!
Carry on!
Turbs
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11-07-2014, 11:15 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Kamloops,B.C. Canada
Posts: 170
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Mine had high resistance at the factory 4 way scotch connectors. Removed the scotch connectors, soldered and heat shrink the connections and now the brakes work good.
09grizzly1
__________________
2012 Palomino Ultralite T245
2004 F250 Supercab 5.4L
09 Grizzly 700 EPS
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11-07-2014, 11:16 AM
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#12
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09grizzly1
Mine had high resistance at the factory 4 way scotch connectors. Removed the scotch connectors, soldered and heat shrink the connections and now the brakes work good.
09grizzly1
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Good plan!
Turbs
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11-07-2014, 02:00 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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I still don't know what scotch connectors are. Can you explain?
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11-07-2014, 02:01 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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Just saw what scotch connecters are thanks!
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11-07-2014, 02:04 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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On my brakes they used wire nuts. Guess I better take each on apart and check the connection. What about a bad ground, where would I look for that? Any other ideas?
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11-08-2014, 12:20 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Kamloops,B.C. Canada
Posts: 170
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On my trailer the brake wiring is grounded to the frame near the 7 pin plug cord junction box. The junction box on my trailer is located inside the frame at the left front corner-there is a removable cover on the underbelly cover to access the box.
09grizzly1
__________________
2012 Palomino Ultralite T245
2004 F250 Supercab 5.4L
09 Grizzly 700 EPS
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11-09-2014, 12:36 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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Does anybody know where the brakes are grounded on a Columbus 320RS 2013?
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11-09-2014, 12:42 PM
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#18
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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To the frame.
Not sure where tho.
Probably near the pin box and or the battery.
Turbs
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04-21-2015, 03:32 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 190
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Had a similar problem and found the problem was in the Scott connectors. Replaced and now much better. Soldering is the best way but makes more difficult to service. You can also pull break away and check voltage. That can tell you if the problem is from the truck or not.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
__________________
 2017 Dynaquest 37RB
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04-21-2015, 03:46 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.z
After living with recurring brake problems on my Columbus 320 I finally changed out the brakes and put new seals, brakes, magnets and packed wheel bearings. Still not satisfiyed with the brakes and after checking the voltage to the brakes, it reads 10.2 volts. I thought someone said it should be 12.2 volts. If so, what and where do I look next? Brakes just don't seem to be applying hard enough when stopping.
"totally frustrated" |
if you change shoes and magnets and run against the the "used" armature and drum surfaces, it will take a while for those surfaces to scrub in. whats it do with the breakaway pin pulled?
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