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Old 08-09-2012, 01:22 PM   #1
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Damageing problem to our 2012

SabreSam,
We are in the middle of a 10 wk trip so 1300 miles from home. I have noticed the floor of the kitchen is becoming damaged from the slide going in and out that holds the fridge, stove and sofa. We were told to bring it back to the dealer when we return from this trip to get all the bugs worked out, but I think they would have to replace the floor if this damage continues. What can we do at this point. It's still brand new in our eyes. Am making a list of minor things for when we get back.

Picture attached.

Also a note to other RV'rs we figured out when we wanted to use the electric hot water feature you have to turn on both the outside switch and then the inside switch to get hot water. This is not in any of the manuals. Figureing the in's and outs by ourselves, is part of the adventure I suppose.
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:06 PM   #2
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Short of not using the slide I'd suggest calling the dealer or pm-ing sabresam and asking on how to adjust slide up on your particular unit.
You may also ask Sam about the closest dealer to where u are now to get it fixed or atleast adjusted up a hair.

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Old 08-09-2012, 02:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dianizon View Post
SabreSam,
We are in the middle of a 10 wk trip so 1300 miles from home. I have noticed the floor of the kitchen is becoming damaged from the slide going in and out that holds the fridge, stove and sofa. We were told to bring it back to the dealer when we return from this trip to get all the bugs worked out, but I think they would have to replace the floor if this damage continues. What can we do at this point. It's still brand new in our eyes. Am making a list of minor things for when we get back.

Picture attached.

Also a note to other RV'rs we figured out when we wanted to use the electric hot water feature you have to turn on both the outside switch and then the inside switch to get hot water. This is not in any of the manuals. Figureing the in's and outs by ourselves, is part of the adventure I suppose.
I had a similar problem with a slide in a Coachmen C. It was caused by a roller under the slide in the stowed position. The vinyl had good memory and would recover in a few hours. If this is similar wonder if a thin piece of sheet metal laid as the slide comes in to cover the spot. When deployed remove and stow the sheetmetal. That should spread the load and stop the denting. Just an idea but should work like large furniture coaster.
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:51 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by VinceU

I had a similar problem with a slide in a Coachmen C. It was caused by a roller under the slide in the stowed position. The vinyl had good memory and would recover in a few hours. If this is similar wonder if a thin piece of sheet metal laid as the slide comes in to cover the spot. When deployed remove and stow the sheetmetal. That should spread the load and stop the denting. Just an idea but should work like large furniture coaster.
Good idea as long as you can hold it there without it moving while slide rolls in .
Hopefully it won't drag it back whilst moving slide back out.
Maybe some red green tape to hold it in place?
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:33 PM   #5
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Good idea as long as you can hold it there without it moving while slide rolls in .
Hopefully it won't drag it back whilst moving slide back out.
Maybe some red green tape to hold it in place?
Agree with you, appears the roller is operating ok because there is no approach or leaving damage to the floor beyond the dent. While slide is out, I would size the sheet to contact the wheel (mine was 9 or 10" under the slide) and then have it roll onto the sheet with about 12" still showing when the slide is stowed in. Distance to wheel + amount of slide +the 12 inches in. Width would be 2X the wheel length maybe 8x2 16" width this to spread the load and prevent a divot in the shim. When operating you can easily detect the "shim" moving and stop the slide if necessary. I had things get under the moving slide by accident, they get crushed but didn't move. What do ya think? I would not use soft metals like alum or copper, galv steel would work, use pretty heavy gauge but smooth.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:53 PM   #6
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Agree about the outside switch on the water heater. While at my last RV park a welcome neighbor came by and wondered why I was using propane for my water heater because he could hear it. Showed me the outside switch and saved me a lot a propane. Dealer did not show me the switch and this was my third camper, the others were automatically switched to electric when hooked up to park power. Agree that Forest River needs to upgrade and specialize their camper manuals. Plan to tell them at the FROG Rally.
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dianizon
SabreSam,
We are in the middle of a 10 wk trip so 1300 miles from home. I have noticed the floor of the kitchen is becoming damaged from the slide going in and out that holds the fridge, stove and sofa. We were told to bring it back to the dealer when we return from this trip to get all the bugs worked out, but I think they would have to replace the floor if this damage continues. What can we do at this point. It's still brand new in our eyes. Am making a list of minor things for when we get back.

Picture attached.

Also a note to other RV'rs we figured out when we wanted to use the electric hot water feature you have to turn on both the outside switch and then the inside switch to get hot water. This is not in any of the manuals. Figureing the in's and outs by ourselves, is part of the adventure I suppose.
Dear customer
Please send me a PM with your full name, vin number and a phone number you can be reached. I will provide the information to my warranty manager. Please....in the future, if you want me to respond, post your question under the ask the Sabre factory rep thread. Or you can send me a PM. This will help me help you faster.
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:57 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by SabreSam View Post
Dear customer
Please send me a PM with your full name, vin number and a phone number you can be reached. I will provide the information to my warranty manager. Please....in the future, if you want me to respond, post your question under the ask the Sabre factory rep thread. Or you can send me a PM. This will help me help you faster.
Dear customer,
I've provided your contact information to my warranty department. Please let the forum members know how we get your issue resolved.

Thanks for being a Sabre owner.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:07 AM   #9
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As to the water heater, if the inside switch is the one with red light light next to it, that is usually propane only. The electric on the outside is electric only. You can run both, and if you have both switches on, you are running both. Go outside and listen for the water to come on propane next time someone else is in the shower. Much slower recovery on electric. As for saving propane, I camped, 2 adults, 70 nights on a 30 pound bottle of propane. Some cooking, not much, furnace a few times, mostly hot water. The newer water heaters don't burn that much.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:21 AM   #10
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As to the water heater, if the inside switch is the one with red light light next to it, that is usually propane only. The electric on the outside is electric only. You can run both, and if you have both switches on, you are running both. Go outside and listen for the water to come on propane next time someone else is in the shower. Much slower recovery on electric. As for saving propane, I camped, 2 adults, 70 nights on a 30 pound bottle of propane. Some cooking, not much, furnace a few times, mostly hot water. The newer water heaters don't burn that much.
On Sabres we have two interior switches one for the gas and one for electric. There is also an override switch for the electric on the water heater. We added the extra interior switch for the electric over a year ago. We had customers that didn't want to run all the way outside to shut off the electric, so we added the interior switch. However the exterior switch overides the interior switch. I hope this clears things up. I do agree that we should have this mentioned in our owners manual.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:17 AM   #11
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Searched on water heater and saw this forum . We are about 4 hrs from dealer and about to head out on week trip to Maine and water heater has started to act up. We generally use electric, which has stopped working. I have reset breaker etc without luck. Used propane one day and then it stopped. I thought maybe because it was a very windy day. We travelled one day and the propane came on last night, however this am propane is not working ( stove etc has propane) any ideas or suggestions?

Just to add we are around night 38 in our new last spring 34 rqts and still love it and layout, however need to add we have continued to have issues like this ( drain blocked with access material, side come loose on bed with staples, moulding lifting etc....about 5 or 6 more) and these are in addition to a roof issue dealer will address in fall. Point being we are very disappointed in final finish quality and workmanship with FR. A would think a extra 6 to 8 hrs in labour and quality checks, plus maybe a few better materials in one or two area would go along way to correct and would not add that much to cost. I for one would gladly pay and extra 3-5 percent for this if it a brand became know for such.

Any ideas on water heater appreciated.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:09 PM   #12
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You have reset propane control by turning sw off/on. Tried 12 vdc and 120 limit trips in outside w/h compartment. If you have means to check 120 VAC remove heater element round cover (2 sxrews) and check for full ac, if you have element is NG, buy with socket at home Depot.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:17 PM   #13
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Defiantly check voltage at electric element for starters.
If power is present then element is bad.
If not there's a breaker tripped or high limit tripped .

Gas option

Try shutting off tanks and then very very slowly open them back up.

Check gas high limit

When you do try gas do you hear the clicking it makes to fire ?

There's a Hw heater trouble shooting guide in the files section of web page upper left hand corner.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:06 PM   #14
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The manuals for campers are somewhat generic. When it comes to the appliances, go the manufactures website or do a google search and download the manual for each appliance. The new Sabre 5th wheel has basically the same switch panel as my Columbus.


What I have done while on a road trip is to stop at a FR dealer that sells a camper that is close to my Columbus. Sabre is dang close. How you operate, troubleshoot, repair, etc. is the same on many models that are close. ALL dealers tend to be helpful in their parts and service dept. when you have questions. Get free help from them and return the favor by shopping their parts dept. IF nothiing else buy a 4 pack of rv toilet paper and say thanks. If you have women camping with you, you will always need more toilet paper soon.
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:21 AM   #15
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Vince / turbo, Herk had moved to plumbing and water heater treads. Thanks for your replies as well. Tried the ac as suggested, basically running on propane for now. Only issue as per below update on plumbing thread is that I seem to have to open both lp tanks as well the dsi has failed a couple times but does work on reset.


As a update the propane continues to generally work, generally as once or twice the dsi lite has come on and I had to rest switch. Maybe this is common on propane side as I have typically used electric. In regards to opening second tank i recall I had to do this in cold weather in the spring for heater. Heater actually would not work one time when one tank was empty.a little troublesome as its means always having to keep both tanks fairly full to insure heat or hot water. Will have dealer check regulator in fall service.
As for the electric have checked best i can, including meter at element( no ac , but breaker is not tripped). Will run on propane until i get to dealer. Thanks again Herk.
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