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Old 05-22-2014, 04:35 PM   #31
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Are you having a stressful day? Sorry for you to perceive my post as a poke, it was not meant to be. Have a great weekend.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:37 PM   #32
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Turbs, who did you talk to as sabre? Sam? Or call the factory directly? The more I'm thinking about this I'm assuming they are going to say no.

If that's the case maybe I find a different 5er or wait till warranty is up. If I mentioned either of these options I'm pretty sure she is going to kill me in the mean time I do really need to figure out a why to at least haul the bikes the kids little bike can ride in the camper but two adult ones I'm not sure about.

Shane, do you have any pictures from the back? How far the receiver finishes from the camper? I am a sheet metal worker so this something I can probably tackle if I were comfortable after warranty expires. Did you just spice your campers trailer harnass for second trailer lights?
Hello, put a Thule rack on top of the truck cab for the other bikes. Thats what i do. They don't bounce to bits on the back bumper, I can not do that with the Rockwood anyways.

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Old 05-22-2014, 06:11 PM   #33
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ours came with a hitch installed , and the spare 16inch e rated steel wheel/tire and the mount attached to the bumper from the factory
When I ordered my 2010 Wildcat I was asked if I wanted a rear hitch. $250 option. Thinking It would be a setup for towing or hauling a boat or ATV trailer, I said yes. When it came in it was a little 1 inch receiver welded to a cross piece under the bumper with a tag that said 250 pound max. It was rather flimsy. Turns out it was for bikes, generator etc. I never got to use it as it was so low under the bumper, by the time I hung a cargo rack on it, it was only about 10" from the groud. Live and learn. Duh!
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:18 PM   #34
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Thanks for the the extra pics Shane, that looks like what I want do!! I just have to see if I need to wait for the waranty to expire

I'm pretty sure the pinbox bike rack is going to be my next project after the holiday weekend assuming I'm I can get away with it not hurting my waranty on the pinbox which it probably will I do need to get my truck backed up to the 5er and hold my bike rack up to see how much room I have but I really like the idea and will definatly post pictures of the process.

I'll keep taking any advise as always!! Thank you guy so much!!!!
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:31 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by dcheatwood View Post
When I ordered my 2010 Wildcat I was asked if I wanted a rear hitch. $250 option. Thinking It would be a setup for towing or hauling a boat or ATV trailer, I said yes. When it came in it was a little 1 inch receiver welded to a cross piece under the bumper with a tag that said 250 pound max. It was rather flimsy. Turns out it was for bikes, generator etc. I never got to use it as it was so low under the bumper, by the time I hung a cargo rack on it, it was only about 10" from the groud. Live and learn. Duh!
As I was reading and you said $250 I thought you passed it up and was thinking man that sounds like a great price....... what a mistake! Oh well thats kind of a bummer....

Just looking around under the camper for ideas of mounting a hitch (i wish i could see thru the enclosed part so i know what else was under there, without taking it apart) I'm a little disappointed with the quality of the current welds surrounding and holding on the 4x4 bumper lots of porosity I guess they are mass produced to some extent....
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:38 PM   #36
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Here's my thoughts as it pertains to my situation.

My 5er has solid I beams right to the tail where the bumper is welded on. What I'm planning on doing would put about 400lbs of weight onto the hitch I add, if two 8-10" (I can't remember which) I beam rails can't handle an extra 200lbs of vertical load each, I have to wonder how delicate they are.
It's your camper to do with as you want, but the frame is not built for the downward cantilever load you will be putting on it. The frame is supported by the sidewalls of the camper in the vertical upward loads all the way to the rear, but not from the bumper back and with a dynamic load. You are flirting with disaster IMO.
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:48 PM   #37
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Are you having a stressful day? Sorry for you to perceive my post as a poke, it was not meant to be. Have a great weekend.

Thanks for your apology.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:59 PM   #38
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It's your camper to do with as you want, but the frame is not built for the downward cantilever load you will be putting on it. The frame is supported by the sidewalls of the camper in the vertical upward loads all the way to the rear, but not from the bumper back and with a dynamic load. You are flirting with disaster IMO.
Thanks for your opinion.

When youre familiar with what Im going to be doing, then we can talk. Until then, as I said, 250lbs per rail vertically wont be a difference especially when my payload is 4500lbs. My rails are nearly two feet per side inboard of the walls and Im not sure why you think theres upwards thrust on my frame, but Im confident the load will be downwards.

Have a great Memorial Day weekend!

My apostrophe quit and its killing me! Lol!
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:21 PM   #39
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X2 on what OC said.
And the upward force ( even though I think OC was talking about the walls having an upward force on the frame) will come from the bounce on the rear of the trailer. It will be just like the end of a 12-14' board bouncing up and down when your hauling it ( the board) in the bed of our truck.
I'd be worried about every bridge joint I drove over if I did it.

Good luck on your decisions fellas!

MillerTime- Future Sabre Handler!!
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Old 05-22-2014, 11:15 PM   #40
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You're kidding me, right?

I'll say it again, if 250lbs per rail wrecks them, I'll be happy to know it is that delicate.
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