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Old 12-27-2012, 06:15 PM   #1
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Hot Water Anode Replacement w/Drain

I have a 2012 Palomino Sabre 32RCTS that has a 10 gallon Suburban water heater, model SW10DEL. I removed the anode rod to drain the tank and found that it needs to be replaced. I believe the part numbers are 11562 (aluminum) and 45-7526 (magnesium). I see that Camping World has a replacement anode rod w/drain Anode Rod with Drain for Atwood Water Heaters - 4 1/2" - Camco RV 11533 - Water Heaters - Camping World but it says "Atwood style" and has a 1/2" thread. Does anyone know if there is a similar one w/drain for the Suburban which I believe has a 3/4" thread.
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:33 PM   #2
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I'm not the expert here, and I'm not going to identify the metal type of an Atwood water heater versus a Suburban water heater, however.........

The anode for the Suburban models are supposed to "sacrifice" themselves when contaminated by impurities of the water that goes through them. The Atwood models, are made of a different metal that combats the impurities itself and really doesn't have a "sacrificial" anode, but rather one that hangs around almost indefinitely.

Therefore, because the anode doesn't have to be replaced as often as a Suburban, an aftermarket company has created the anode w/drain for Atwood water heaters only. It's not that big a deal to drain the Suburban water heater by removing the anode, and this allows to constantly monitor the condition of it to see if it needs replacement.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:48 PM   #3
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Kind of odd isn't it. The Attwood really doesn't need an anode rod and as far as I know, they don't make one for the Suburban with a drain............
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:37 PM   #4
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I believe our dealer keeps a bunch of anodes in stock. When we picked up our 5er there were about 20 of them on the parts counter.

-Atwoods I have heard are aluminum tanks so no anode is needed-not 100% sure, but that's what I've heard.

I think the 3/4" suburban is probably the most common, so you should be able to get one just about anywhere.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:39 PM   #5
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Two (2) diffrent tank types (2) diff.needs. When you put a drain valve in (any) tank you are reducing the output size.This will allow (Crap) to stay in the tank. Remove Plug,Anode rod,or Corn Cob and drain tanks,and flush proper,or find (Crap) downstream in your water system! Youroo!!
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
Two (2) diffrent tank types (2) diff.needs. When you put a drain valve in (any) tank you are reducing the output size.This will allow (Crap) to stay in the tank. Remove Plug,Anode rod,or Corn Cob and drain tanks,and flush proper,or find (Crap) downstream in your water system! Youroo!!
X 2. Looking at the crap that gets flushed out of the water heater that would be left behind with the smaller drain. You have to remove the anode rod to check. If you looking at removal to drain between trips, use 4 - 5 wraps of teflon tape when re-installing. It doesn't need to be torqued to 100 ft lbs to seal.

FWIW, Atwood site say that their water heaters are aluminum clad and don't require an anode rod. Don't know if the CW stocked one is for older models?

Dave
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
Two (2) diffrent tank types (2) diff.needs. When you put a drain valve in (any) tank you are reducing the output size.This will allow (Crap) to stay in the tank. Remove Plug,Anode rod,or Corn Cob and drain tanks,and flush proper,or find (Crap) downstream in your water system! Youroo!!
Yooroo is 100% here.

Get the right anode. remove and inspect it every year and replace as required.
Nothing else will do.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:03 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Cyoul8r View Post
I have a 2012 Palomino Sabre 32RCTS that has a 10 gallon Suburban water heater, model SW10DEL. I removed the anode rod to drain the tank and found that it needs to be replaced.
A 2012 that needs to be replaced ?? We have read about it a few times on here, but that is rare. Check out Lou's chart.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:07 AM   #9
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Chap, it is possible if his water is from a well with high sulphur or high acid content. I have heard of this before. City water is treated for PH and the rod should last for years.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:21 AM   #10
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A 2012 that needs to be replaced ?? ..
our 2012 tt was a "pre-owned" one - I removed the rod for inspection and it had some deterioration - about what the 25% pic above shows - I replaced it.....because I had it out and they're inexpensive

would not use one with a drain hole/lever (if there was ever one for the suburban).....Bill
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