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Old 12-27-2012, 06:15 PM   #1
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Hot Water Anode Replacement w/Drain

I have a 2012 Palomino Sabre 32RCTS that has a 10 gallon Suburban water heater, model SW10DEL. I removed the anode rod to drain the tank and found that it needs to be replaced. I believe the part numbers are 11562 (aluminum) and 45-7526 (magnesium). I see that Camping World has a replacement anode rod w/drain Anode Rod with Drain for Atwood Water Heaters - 4 1/2" - Camco RV 11533 - Water Heaters - Camping World but it says "Atwood style" and has a 1/2" thread. Does anyone know if there is a similar one w/drain for the Suburban which I believe has a 3/4" thread.
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:33 PM   #2
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I'm not the expert here, and I'm not going to identify the metal type of an Atwood water heater versus a Suburban water heater, however.........

The anode for the Suburban models are supposed to "sacrifice" themselves when contaminated by impurities of the water that goes through them. The Atwood models, are made of a different metal that combats the impurities itself and really doesn't have a "sacrificial" anode, but rather one that hangs around almost indefinitely.

Therefore, because the anode doesn't have to be replaced as often as a Suburban, an aftermarket company has created the anode w/drain for Atwood water heaters only. It's not that big a deal to drain the Suburban water heater by removing the anode, and this allows to constantly monitor the condition of it to see if it needs replacement.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:48 PM   #3
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Kind of odd isn't it. The Attwood really doesn't need an anode rod and as far as I know, they don't make one for the Suburban with a drain............
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:37 PM   #4
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I believe our dealer keeps a bunch of anodes in stock. When we picked up our 5er there were about 20 of them on the parts counter.

-Atwoods I have heard are aluminum tanks so no anode is needed-not 100% sure, but that's what I've heard.

I think the 3/4" suburban is probably the most common, so you should be able to get one just about anywhere.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:39 PM   #5
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Two (2) diffrent tank types (2) diff.needs. When you put a drain valve in (any) tank you are reducing the output size.This will allow (Crap) to stay in the tank. Remove Plug,Anode rod,or Corn Cob and drain tanks,and flush proper,or find (Crap) downstream in your water system! Youroo!!
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:28 PM   #6
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Two (2) diffrent tank types (2) diff.needs. When you put a drain valve in (any) tank you are reducing the output size.This will allow (Crap) to stay in the tank. Remove Plug,Anode rod,or Corn Cob and drain tanks,and flush proper,or find (Crap) downstream in your water system! Youroo!!
X 2. Looking at the crap that gets flushed out of the water heater that would be left behind with the smaller drain. You have to remove the anode rod to check. If you looking at removal to drain between trips, use 4 - 5 wraps of teflon tape when re-installing. It doesn't need to be torqued to 100 ft lbs to seal.

FWIW, Atwood site say that their water heaters are aluminum clad and don't require an anode rod. Don't know if the CW stocked one is for older models?

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Old 12-27-2012, 11:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
Two (2) diffrent tank types (2) diff.needs. When you put a drain valve in (any) tank you are reducing the output size.This will allow (Crap) to stay in the tank. Remove Plug,Anode rod,or Corn Cob and drain tanks,and flush proper,or find (Crap) downstream in your water system! Youroo!!
Yooroo is 100% here.

Get the right anode. remove and inspect it every year and replace as required.
Nothing else will do.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:03 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Cyoul8r View Post
I have a 2012 Palomino Sabre 32RCTS that has a 10 gallon Suburban water heater, model SW10DEL. I removed the anode rod to drain the tank and found that it needs to be replaced.
A 2012 that needs to be replaced ?? We have read about it a few times on here, but that is rare. Check out Lou's chart.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:07 AM   #9
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Chap, it is possible if his water is from a well with high sulphur or high acid content. I have heard of this before. City water is treated for PH and the rod should last for years.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:21 AM   #10
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A 2012 that needs to be replaced ?? ..
our 2012 tt was a "pre-owned" one - I removed the rod for inspection and it had some deterioration - about what the 25% pic above shows - I replaced it.....because I had it out and they're inexpensive

would not use one with a drain hole/lever (if there was ever one for the suburban).....Bill
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:32 AM   #11
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Yooroo is 100% here.

Get the right anode. remove and inspect it every year and replace as required.
Nothing else will do.

Thanks for posting the chart, Lou. I was planning to replace mine this spring, but according to your chart it only has about 25% wear.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:38 AM   #12
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Chap, it is possible if his water is from a well with high sulphur or high acid content. I have heard of this before. City water is treated for PH and the rod should last for years.
Yeah, I realize these things do happen, but it is unusual. There was a thread a couple of months ago where a 2012 anode rod was totally gone......but he had introduced brackish water into his system.

Is this much calcium normal for 7 months / 4 times of use?!?
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:39 AM   #13
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Forest River Forums - cfsoistman's Album: Water Heater Cleaning Wand

I remove the anode rod and rinse the CRAP out with the wand I built. It can be made from 1/2" CPVC as well. I just had the copper left over from a project at home.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:20 AM   #14
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If you want a (FREE) wand just cut a used washing machine supply line hose in half. Now you have a ready made small hose to put in the hole of 3/4 or 1/2 drains of Water heaters. place cut end inside tank and turn on water supply full blast,let the hose whip around like a snake with its head cut off! Watch till the Crud stops comming out,turn off water supply. PS,If the hose is to long and Drowns you,cut off more of the hose. This is part of the R&D! Give the other end of the Original hose to a fellow camper. Youroo!!
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:35 AM   #15
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After I retired last year on April Fool's Day we started left on a a 3 month, 11,000 mile "Retirement Tour". We had used our Sunseeker a total of less than a month since we purchased it new the previous September. We used it another month that fall. When I drained and cleaned out the water heater there was lots of buildup in it. I was surprised to see that the anode rod was about 25% consumed. We spent a lot of the trip out west where hard water was a problem. The water had so much mineral content that when I washed the RV or car I couldn't get water spots off them.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:43 AM   #16
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Thanks for all the responses. I've decided to replace the anode rod and not worry about the drain type as mine looks like the 75% example on herk7769's chart (thanks for that) and that is from only 1 year of use. It makes sense to pull it and do a thorough cleaning. Is it best to leave the tank drained until the next trip or refill it right after cleaning?
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:14 AM   #17
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Is it best to leave the tank drained until the next trip or refill it right after cleaning?
I sanitize the water system with bleach before the start of camping season and don't drain the WH until I winterize in the late fall. A few on here have said that they drain after every trip which may be overkill.

The anode rod in ours is only 25% consumed after 3 years service...guess it's all to do with water quality.

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Old 12-28-2012, 11:52 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Cyoul8r View Post
Thanks for all the responses. I've decided to replace the anode rod and not worry about the drain type as mine looks like the 75% example on herk7769's chart (thanks for that) and that is from only 1 year of use. It makes sense to pull it and do a thorough cleaning. Is it best to leave the tank drained until the next trip or refill it right after cleaning?
I am with Dave.

Drain and clean out when winterizing. Make sure valves are set to keep antifreeze out of water heater; re-install the anode with Teflon.

In the Spring (or when de-winterizing) flush out the entire system before opening the valves; then open and fill the system with sanitizing solution (including the water heater) drain and flush again with city water (that has chlorine). Fill system with city water for use.

If you use well water to fill your system, I recommend adding bleach to the water to keep bacteria and algae out of your system.

If you have a "thing" for not drinking chlorinated water, filter your water at point of use with an "at sink" water filtration system.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:42 AM   #19
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I know this is an old thread, but - will adding teflon tape to the threads of the anode hinder the "electrical" connection needed to ensure the anode can do its job? I think the action if threading it into the WH will cut through the tape, but...
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:51 AM   #20
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I know this is an old thread, but - will adding teflon tape to the threads of the anode hinder the "electrical" connection needed to ensure the anode can do its job? I think the action if threading it into the WH will cut through the tape, but...
No it will not do any harm or hinder operation .
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