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Old 12-14-2013, 11:24 AM   #1
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Thought I'd start this thread to entertain myself for another week or so. long Winter to think thru thus project so oldest give me any advice or knowledge you have

Even though my Sabre was advertised a heated and enclosed underbelly, it ain't...that's a whole different discussion and I realize you get what you pay for.

So what I'm thinking (and have spent time reading about) is to drop the coraplast cover, then remove the radiant insulating layer at least for a bit. I will then go they several steps before adding rigid foam insulation.

First, add pipe insulation in key areas and at least little sections to ensure the piping isn't resting on any steel framework. I'm also going to find a way to add shutoffs on the O.K. lines, but will have to see how to keep them accessible.

Second, consider adding heating pads to the tanks (obviously I'll hand to decide before starting this project)

Third, check all heating lines and ducts, adding small openings along the route. Not sure on this, but I'm thinking of making a "trap" or a couple induce cabinets that could access to blow heat into the belly also?

finally, after ensuring all wiring, plumbing, and ducting is how I want it, I will cover the sides, ends, and bottom of the underbelly with 1"(I think, maybe 2"?) Foam. Sealing all holes and miscuts with expanding foam as needed. Then I'm hoping to cover that with the radiant, but maybe that should be on top of the foam ?

Thoughts on this process? Think it'll solve my freezing up problems? we don't fulltime, but live in central Nebraska and like to use the rig over the Winter in place of hotels when needed and as added guest space.

Thanks y'all!
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:22 PM   #2
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Isn't it very warm trailer . I was thinking about getting a 31 ckts-6 we are here in nw Iowa
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:35 PM   #3
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Inside stays very warm. We run up to three little space heaters, one in bunk house, one in living room, and one in our bedroom. The propane furnace never comes on. But when it was really cold a few weeks ago (0-10f), I used just the propane furnace so that heat should go to the underbelly. I also had a space heater in the outside kitchen (not planning to use the kitchen but wanted to ensure lines would not burst, and another in the basement storage, and finally a 75w light bulb in the water bay.
The inside kitchen lines were still frozen in the mornings. I opened the sink base door and find very cold air when I put my hand near the water lines access hole.
I think the sabres are insulated as good or better than comparably priced units, but still not made for 0 deg temps. I expected to go thru lots of propane, b4 thought it'd be doable.

That's why, after thinking thru all options, I decided it best to insulate/heat the underbelly myself.



Edit/addition after reading my post about running all the heaters I realized that sounds horrible.... I was pointing out how well the unit is wired. Love the 50a. In 30deg nights 50deg days, these sabres perform amazing! I even think most (minus ones with outside kitchen) would do fine down to teens, assuming day temps get above freezing and/or sunny.
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:43 PM   #4
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So you think that the cold air coming from under belly think heat wrap help water lines or foam over lines herb
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:45 PM   #5
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I guess my biggest goal is to add insulation at the underbelly. I thought the pipes would be above the main insulation, but that not the case. I have no idea how mine is piped, so it'll be good to see it opened up, I hope
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:50 PM   #6
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Hers a couple pics of the kitchen sink pipes, taken from below after I cut an opening in the bottom covering. As you can see, maybe, the pipes touch or are near the main beams and the only insulation below the pipes is the radiant insulation(silver bubble wrap)
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:51 PM   #7
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:56 PM   #8
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What model you have
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:58 PM   #9
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34 tbok
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:12 PM   #10
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Is there dealer out your way that sells sabre .mine just repair s now
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:28 PM   #11
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I know AC Nelsen in Omaha does, but I bought from RV wholesalers and picked mine up in Ohio march 7th. Took two days getting home, and stayed the first night within 30 minutes of the dealership in case of problems. I think Rich & sons out of grand island Nebraska Carries them too, but I'm not sure.
One of the best Midwest dealers, according to many on here, is Cheyenne Camper Sales and they carry sabres.
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:41 PM   #12
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I am about 160miles from ac have been talking to them
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:43 PM   #13
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Did you save that much by going tO RV wholesale s
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herb 88 View Post
I am about 160miles from ac have been talking to them
We bought our previous tt from them, and I would've like to but my Sabre there. The problem I had was they didn't take me serious when I was ready to buy. Had a unit ordered, but none in stock and claimed they had no idea what options it was going to have? : confused: ? RV wholesalers were patient, have been fair after the sale for needed warranty work, and saved me $7K ! Spending $1K on the trip to and fro pick it up was fine by me, and we also were comfortable pulling, hitching/unhitching, and using it by the time we drove 800m home.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:57 PM   #15
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We have a Sabre 34RLQS and have camped many nights at temps between 12 and 17 degrees and have never had any problems with water lines freezing.....
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:03 PM   #16
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That's good to know . don't like if trailer not good for the money they want
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okietom View Post
We have a Sabre 34RLQS and have camped many nights at temps between 12 and 17 degrees and have never had any problems with water lines freezing.....
I think mine has to do with the length and outside kitchen, but your post is exactly why I'm anxious to open the belly, see what I got, and make it better then factory! Sabre rep assured me adding insulation won't affect the warranty.

Thanks!
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:32 PM   #18
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If you are running 3 electric space heaters, why not add a switch to the furnace blower and let it circulate the air without running the furnace or add a booster fan to run independently?
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:47 PM   #19
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If you are running 3 electric space heaters, why not add a switch to the furnace blower and let it circulate the air without running the furnace or add a booster fan to run independently?
On my list. Actually, thinking of adding a second blower motor. I have your msg explaining how you did it.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:10 PM   #20
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How you coming on winter warmed to that trailer
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