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Old 07-18-2014, 12:31 PM   #11
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Timing in South Louisiana
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David, you can do just what you said; cut it out and install at the inlet. In this case, I'm referring to one of the brass inline type from Lowes or Home Depot. Very small screw on type. The black flush is a stand alone system. You can put one at the inlet. They are required to put it at / above the toilet level, which is why you see it where it is. I don't agree that an external has to be the same height as the toilet. As long as the inlet and anti-siphon is above the black tank level, you should be fine. Most inlets are installed a few feet above tank level anyway. On the No Fuss Flush system, it's practically mounted at the same level, so that can be left to another argument. It'll be your decision in the end, and you'll get varying opinions.

As long as we keep buying RV's, I will keep cutting them out. Just one less leak to worry about in a place that can cause a lot of damage.

John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:36 PM   #12
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Here's the Camco tornado flush.

It comes with the vacuum breaker (although in the pic, it looks more like a check valve to me), even though it's external. You don't want nasty water going backwards into anything (in this case, it could go back into the CG supply).

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Old 07-19-2014, 07:37 AM   #13
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: China Grove, NC
Posts: 301
So y'all cut it out and cap the line under the sink? Mine is under the sink in the master bath as well on my 36 QBOK

2015 Sabre 36QBOK-7
2007 F-350 Diesel FX-4
China Grove,NC
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:08 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Pirates55 View Post
So y'all cut it out and cap the line under the sink? Mine is under the sink in the master bath as well on my 36 QBOK

2015 Sabre 36QBOK-7
2007 F-350 Diesel FX-4
China Grove,NC
No,leave the lines in the (Upper) position just remove the (Plastic POS valve) and connect the line together with proper fittings. Them use a (anti valve on the outside inlet for B/T rinse)!
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:07 AM   #15
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 291
We have a 2012 Sabre 32RCTS and our valve is in the linen closet in the bathroom. Ours leaked real bad and water drained out of the cabinet right down onto the furnace, We thought we blew the control board on the furnace but it worked ok after drying out. We replaced the plastic valve with a brass one. Here's a link the the site we bought it from.

Cash Acme Type V101 Vacuum Breaker with Check Valve
Kevin & Janine
2006 Dodge 2500 Megacab CTD 2WD
2012 Palomino Sabre 32RCTS
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:33 PM   #16
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Posts: 632
Thanks for all the input. Quite an education. I took the valve out and looked it over and than put it back in. I isolated the connection and put a bucked under it. I want to make sure that is my problem. I flushed yesterday morning, drove 200 miles, set back up and so far no issues. I picked up a couple of PVC fitting to bypass the valve and a vacuum break for the end of the hose. Even if it doesn't leak I think I will do as suggested for the short term and when I get home in September I will do a more permanent job of connecting the lines or I might just leave as is and put the valve back in if I ever sell the unit. One less liability issue.

Thanks again. I will update and let yo know if the valve leaks again.


2013 Ford F-350 SD Diesel, 4X4, Crew Cab, Lariat
Sabre 2014 32RCTS, Pullrite Superglide 2900 18K
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