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07-17-2014, 07:39 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 703
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Intermittent Leak
Does anyone know what this black device is? Looks like it has a flow arrow. I have a small leak that ends up in my basement. It is just below the water lines from my bathroom sink. I am trying to figure out if I have some water running down the outside of one of my lines. I cannot get to all the connectors to tighten them except by hand. I hand tightened the hot and cold to the faucet (cannot get pliers in there) and I used pliers to tighten the connectors going to this black device. I have a total of 4 lines directly under the sink. 3 cold and one hot. One hot and one cold go to the faucet and the two additional colds are attached to the black thingy majig. When I shake the black thing a few drops of water come out.
There are also PEX connectors in the basement that are just above where it gets wet, but I do no think those are the problem. I wrapped some paper towels around the hot and cold lines going to the faucet to see if they get wet. I was camping five days ago and had water when I parked but none for the remainder of camping. Didn't have water yesterday when I relocated (thought it might happen during the tow) but did today. Haven't been doing anything different since I relocated than I did in the five prior days.
Any assistance appreciated. Just wondering why they connected two cold lines through this device.
__________________
2013 Ford F-350 SD Diesel, 4X4, Crew Cab, Lariat
Sabre 2014 32RCTS, Pullrite Superglide 2900 18K
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07-17-2014, 08:11 PM
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#2
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Plain Old Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Timing in South Louisiana
Posts: 1,938
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Anti-Siphon device, or backflow preventer. Required by RV industry to install on black flush system. We always cut them out, as most all have or will leak. In theory, it's supposed to keep black water from coming from the tank back into your hose. But, if you've seen how the nozzle is installed in the tank in reference to the tubing and inlet, it's virtually impossible to siphon through those tiny holes even if you're tank is above half full where the nozzle is. Just cut it out, and use a inline version from Lowes or HD at the inlet, and also use a designated hose.
__________________
John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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07-17-2014, 08:14 PM
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#3
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Plain Old Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Timing in South Louisiana
Posts: 1,938
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I say cut it out. Sounds like yours is installed like mine was, under the bathroom sink. I traced the lines back into the basement, and back as close to the inlet as possible, and made a new connection there. Got rid of probably 8 feet of pex in the process.
__________________
John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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07-17-2014, 08:44 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidceder
Does anyone know what this black device is? Looks like it has a flow arrow. I have a small leak that ends up in my basement. It is just below the water lines from my bathroom sink. I am trying to figure out if I have some water running down the outside of one of my lines. I cannot get to all the connectors to tighten them except by hand. I hand tightened the hot and cold to the faucet (cannot get pliers in there) and I used pliers to tighten the connectors going to this black device. I have a total of 4 lines directly under the sink. 3 cold and one hot. One hot and one cold go to the faucet and the two additional colds are attached to the black thingy majig. When I shake the black thing a few drops of water come out.
There are also PEX connectors in the basement that are just above where it gets wet, but I do no think those are the problem. I wrapped some paper towels around the hot and cold lines going to the faucet to see if they get wet. I was camping five days ago and had water when I parked but none for the remainder of camping. Didn't have water yesterday when I relocated (thought it might happen during the tow) but did today. Haven't been doing anything different since I relocated than I did in the five prior days.
Any assistance appreciated. Just wondering why they connected two cold lines through this device.
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That is actually a vacuum breaker required by Public Health and enforced by plumbing rules. In the last 20 years they are fitted to hose bibs, utility sinks, campground water supplies etc. The one looks like a economy model and used a flap to prevent backflow but not seating properly on proper flow. Easy to eliminate but you'll be the first victim if something backs up. Ever lost water pressure?, that's when it happens. Small holes maybe, coliform and other goodies are smaller yet!
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07-17-2014, 09:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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I'd just get a new one and move it where it doesn't hurt if it leaks.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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07-17-2014, 09:27 PM
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#6
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Plain Old Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Timing in South Louisiana
Posts: 1,938
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VinceU, that's why I said install one at the inlet and use a designated hose. Ever look at a No Fuss Flush system, or any of the aftermarket systems you can install? Where is the vacuum break, at the inlet. Better to cut out and get it out of the camper and install one at inlet than deal with the possible flood as I've had. I know they're required, but there are better ways of doing it.
__________________
John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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07-17-2014, 09:33 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJohnD
VinceU, that's why I said install one at the inlet and use a designated hose. Ever look at a No Fuss Flush system, or any of the aftermarket systems you can install? Where is the vacuum break, at the inlet. Better to cut out and get it out of the camper and install one at inlet than deal with the possible flood as I've had. I know they're required, but there are better ways of doing it.
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Agree Big John, mine was installed behind the washer Dryer at near 150#s next to impossible to get to. It should be installed outside just as long as the vertical height is the same as original.
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07-18-2014, 04:52 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: China Grove, NC
Posts: 321
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Which camper do you have. Curious if mine is located in the same place on a sabre 36qbok
2015 Sabre 36QBOK-7
2007 F-350 Diesel FX-4
China Grove,NC
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07-18-2014, 10:46 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 703
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Hey guys, thanks so much for the quick responses but now I am a bit confused (easy to do) I have not as yet followed the plumbing from the anti siphon to the black tank flush. I was just wondering why an anti siphon device is needed as part of the RIGS plumbing system if the black tank flush is a stand alone system with no tie into the rigs fresh water system? Are you guys saying that this is installed for the sole purpose of making sure there is no back flow into the designated hose hose I attach outside my rig to flush the black tank? Is that correct? I can see why this would be necessary but a complicated implementation. And what is this about keeping the same vertical height? Can't I just eliminate the current siphon and put something on the end of my designated hose. Wont be at the same vertical height though. Thanks much
__________________
2013 Ford F-350 SD Diesel, 4X4, Crew Cab, Lariat
Sabre 2014 32RCTS, Pullrite Superglide 2900 18K
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07-18-2014, 10:47 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 703
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Pirate;
I have a Sabre 32RCTS. Look up under your bathroom sink just below the hot and cold faucet fixture.
__________________
2013 Ford F-350 SD Diesel, 4X4, Crew Cab, Lariat
Sabre 2014 32RCTS, Pullrite Superglide 2900 18K
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07-18-2014, 12:31 PM
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#11
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Plain Old Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Timing in South Louisiana
Posts: 1,938
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David, you can do just what you said; cut it out and install at the inlet. In this case, I'm referring to one of the brass inline type from Lowes or Home Depot. Very small screw on type. The black flush is a stand alone system. You can put one at the inlet. They are required to put it at / above the toilet level, which is why you see it where it is. I don't agree that an external has to be the same height as the toilet. As long as the inlet and anti-siphon is above the black tank level, you should be fine. Most inlets are installed a few feet above tank level anyway. On the No Fuss Flush system, it's practically mounted at the same level, so that can be left to another argument. It'll be your decision in the end, and you'll get varying opinions.
As long as we keep buying RV's, I will keep cutting them out. Just one less leak to worry about in a place that can cause a lot of damage.
__________________
John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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07-18-2014, 05:36 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Here's the Camco tornado flush.
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40126-To.../dp/B000BUU5TU
It comes with the vacuum breaker (although in the pic, it looks more like a check valve to me), even though it's external. You don't want nasty water going backwards into anything (in this case, it could go back into the CG supply).
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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07-19-2014, 07:37 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: China Grove, NC
Posts: 321
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So y'all cut it out and cap the line under the sink? Mine is under the sink in the master bath as well on my 36 QBOK
2015 Sabre 36QBOK-7
2007 F-350 Diesel FX-4
China Grove,NC
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07-19-2014, 08:08 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirates55
So y'all cut it out and cap the line under the sink? Mine is under the sink in the master bath as well on my 36 QBOK
2015 Sabre 36QBOK-7
2007 F-350 Diesel FX-4
China Grove,NC
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No,leave the lines in the (Upper) position just remove the (Plastic POS valve) and connect the line together with proper fittings. Them use a (anti valve on the outside inlet for B/T rinse)!
Youroo!!
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07-19-2014, 09:07 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 298
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We have a 2012 Sabre 32RCTS and our valve is in the linen closet in the bathroom. Ours leaked real bad and water drained out of the cabinet right down onto the furnace, We thought we blew the control board on the furnace but it worked ok after drying out. We replaced the plastic valve with a brass one. Here's a link the the site we bought it from.
Cash Acme Type V101 Vacuum Breaker with Check Valve
__________________
Kevin & Janine
2019 F350 Lariat DRW
2020 Jayco Pinnacle 36KPTS
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07-21-2014, 12:33 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 703
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Thanks for all the input. Quite an education. I took the valve out and looked it over and than put it back in. I isolated the connection and put a bucked under it. I want to make sure that is my problem. I flushed yesterday morning, drove 200 miles, set back up and so far no issues. I picked up a couple of PVC fitting to bypass the valve and a vacuum break for the end of the hose. Even if it doesn't leak I think I will do as suggested for the short term and when I get home in September I will do a more permanent job of connecting the lines or I might just leave as is and put the valve back in if I ever sell the unit. One less liability issue.
Thanks again. I will update and let yo know if the valve leaks again.
__________________
2013 Ford F-350 SD Diesel, 4X4, Crew Cab, Lariat
Sabre 2014 32RCTS, Pullrite Superglide 2900 18K
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