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Old 10-21-2012, 10:40 PM   #21
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check out ebay or amazon for heated water hoses instead of using heat tape on your water hose. I picked up a pirit h50 5/8 hose from amazon, the hose came from hardwaresales.com

My grey and black tanks are heated and I have put a skirting and plan to use a heater in my storage area where the water heater and filter is located.

I will be using my camper into jan and maybe feb.

I have been thinking of wrapping heat tape on the elbows and gate valves as that is one of my main concerns.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:47 PM   #22
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I gambled on my 6.0 also and bought a 2 year 12K mile warranty with the truck. Poor guys are WAY upside down on the warranty repairs - aka I am way ahead. Truck runs very well now!

I saw the new Ice Castles at Milaca Unclaimed Freight a few weeks ago. Those rigs are the ultimate man cave on ice.
Our diesel tech says our truck is pretty much in great shape. I'm going to replace the primary exhaust manifold for sh_ts and grins, but that's it, and only because I hate rust. I really don't see this being that big of a deal. What were your major problems? I keep hearing horror stories, but I can't really see where all the fuss is on this engine. I've been over it and over it, and really don't see any places where it could be any worse than any other mass produced diesel engine.

Our Ice Castle is amazing. We actually considered ordering the 5th wheel version, but decided on keeping it small and it serves as a club house/rec room for the kids, and my son's bed room. It could be a lot better in a lot of ways, but for what it is (and what it's supposed to be) it's phenomenal. Unfortunately it's not leaving MN with us in 2016, so if you're looking for a good deal on a gently used fish house in a couple of years, look us up! We'll be heading up to Eelpout this year, so it'll get some action.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:00 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by pete52 View Post
check out ebay or amazon for heated water hoses instead of using heat tape on your water hose. I picked up a pirit h50 5/8 hose from amazon, the hose came from hardwaresales.com

My grey and black tanks are heated and I have put a skirting and plan to use a heater in my storage area where the water heater and filter is located.

I will be using my camper into jan and maybe feb.

I have been thinking of wrapping heat tape on the elbows and gate valves as that is one of my main concerns.
I grew up in Mass... We had a Pirit, and it blew out in Colorado due to over pressure. I cried, and cried. We'll order one again if we need to, but we're going to try to make the old heat tape last. It's a moot point if the ground freezes the supply piping. That's our weak link here, 4-5ft of ground freeze. Once it sets in, we'll probably end up just filling the tank, running off the pump, and blowing back the line to prevent it freezing up from the distro manifold. We camped for a long time in Colorado which has about the same temps as NE in the winter, and were always fine with just a 75w light bulb in the "utility compartment" where the black/grey pull valves were. Never had a line freeze, valve freeze, or tank freeze. Dump daily, drain the line, and don't let grey trickle by always worked for us.

This is going to be so luxurious with heated tanks and a heated valve compartment. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with all my spare time, and lightbulb money, spend it on propane i guess .
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:46 PM   #24
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I think you better have a backup plan if you are going to see any temps below 0.

Especially without thermopane windows. These windows were my only must-have when I ordered my 320. The windows are so big in these units, and so many of them, I can't see going in such cold temps - even with thermopanes it may be too cold for an RV.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:40 PM   #25
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We have the new rig, and so far the only problem is that the factory "forgot" to seal the shower sliding door track with some form of sealant. This sent a steady stream of water into the heating vent. Solved with silicone caulk, and we're good now. The water also runs under the 'nose end' bathroom wall and into the master bedroom wetting the carpet.

Christopher Columbus, if this is an oversight I understand, but otherwise a little silicone goes a long way.

Everything else is great. This unit is a HUGE improvement to our old Class A.

We'll post pictures as soon as we're done moving in (and as soon as it stops raining).

I'll fabricate the cargo box this weekend, and send pics of that as well (as well as dimensions if ya'll like it).
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:50 PM   #26
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I think you better have a backup plan if you are going to see any temps below 0.

Especially without thermopane windows. These windows were my only must-have when I ordered my 320. The windows are so big in these units, and so many of them, I can't see going in such cold temps - even with thermopanes it may be too cold for an RV.
Our back up plan in a tent! Just kidding. Thanks for the concern. We will lose much more heat/cooling through the windows than we'd like, that's for sure. But we're confident in Forest River.

We've seen many MANY nights below 0 in the class A and never had an issue. Colorado is capable of producing sub zero weather, especially at 10,000 ft where we're coming from. In fact we used the furnace more in the last week trying to use up the propane in the tank (prior to donating it to the dealer) than the entire year before.

Our coldest night in Colorado was -11 and it was 58 degrees in the coach. This Columbus is MUCH better insulated.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:59 PM   #27
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We have the new rig, and so far the only problem is that the factory "forgot" to seal the shower sliding door track with some form of sealant. This sent a steady stream of water into the heating vent. Solved with silicone caulk, and we're good now. The water also runs under the 'nose end' bathroom wall and into the master bedroom wetting the carpet.
others have had this issue. My guess is the rail was put on backwards. It should drain INTO the shower!
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:02 PM   #28
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Early 320RS rigs had the shower track installed backwards so they drained on the floor instead of back into the shower. Stupid I know but chit happens.

I feared that 3 panel shower door would leak so I took my first shower outside of the shower. Just let it run with me outside. I found that dirt, hair, crud etc. builds up in the shower track and it is kind of hard to clean. When leveling the RV I biased it so it's off center with the entry door side high a bit to allow this shower track to drain better. I also noticed the bathroom door swings open way too easy and the door handle crashes into the closet door. Again biased my front to back levling so bathroom door stays nuetral. The silicoln wipers come off the shower doors pretty easy if you bump into them. Easy to put them back on however.

If you have one of those fold out hidabed couches, unfold it all the way. Mine had a ton of wood chips, styrofoam beads, and a large wood screw on the inside bottom. Easy to vacuum out with the sweet central vacuum system. Don't step on the bottom panel, your foot may go through! Why the factory or dealer didn't clean this up I don't know. Just plain lazy in my book. It reality, it's not on the checklist.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:03 PM   #29
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others have had this issue. My guess is the rail was put on backwards. It should drain INTO the shower!
I would post about how hard this could be to install correctly, but honestly, given the complexity of these things if this is the worst thing that can go wrong then I'm good.

It's on correctly, just not sealed. I don't care how many gaskets you use, metal on plastic does not seal. Forest River: Caulk!
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:10 PM   #30
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Early 320RS rigs had the shower track installed backwards so they drained on the floor instead of back into the shower. Stupid I know but chit happens.

I feared that 3 panel shower door would leak so I took my first shower outside of the shower. Just let it run with me outside. I found that dirt, hair, crud etc. builds up in the shower track and it is kind of hard to clean. When leveling the RV I biased it so it's off center with the entry door side high a bit to allow this shower track to drain better. I also noticed the bathroom door swings open way too easy and the door handle crashes into the closet door. Again biased my front to back levling so bathroom door stays nuetral. The silicoln wipers come off the shower doors pretty easy if you bump into them. Easy to put them back on however.

If you have one of those fold out hidabed couches, unfold it all the way. Mine had a ton of wood chips, styrofoam beads, and a large wood screw on the inside bottom. Easy to vacuum out with the sweet central vacuum system. Don't step on the bottom panel, your foot may go through! Why the factory or dealer didn't clean this up I don't know. Just plain lazy in my book. It reality, it's not on the checklist.
The shower is a bit of a let down, but again, it's MUCH better than the Class A I just traded in. The biggest problem is hot water, Huge shower+10gal hot water tank = short shower...RV living what can you say.

The good news is my dealer, so far, has done a GREAT job getting this ready. We have not had to do anything other than caulk the shower rail. That and they spent 2 hrs with me teaching me how to drive with a 5th wheel, hook it up, "land" it, etc. Going from a Class A to 5th wheel is not easy, but so far we're in great shape.
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