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Old 02-27-2012, 10:21 PM   #1
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Sabre Underbelly Heat

Greetings! I'm a proud new owner of a 2012 Sabre 31 RETS!
First off, I'm very happy so far and am very excited to get out and use it!

I'm wondering if anyone has 'disabled' their underbelly/ tank heat? With the previous fivers' I always have disabled the heat down there because I feel that I'm just being wasteful since I never camp in sub- freezing weather. I'm hoping I can just tape off the duct going down there to force more heat into the cabin.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:22 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SabreBen View Post
Greetings! I'm a proud new owner of a 2012 Sabre 31 RETS!
First off, I'm very happy so far and am very excited to get out and use it!

I'm wondering if anyone has 'disabled' their underbelly/ tank heat? With the previous fivers' I always have disabled the heat down there because I feel that I'm just being wasteful since I never camp in sub- freezing weather. I'm hoping I can just tape off the duct going down there to force more heat into the cabin.
I have the same Sabre purchased 6 weeks ago. Hadn't had a chance to actually camp in it yet. In checking out the systems I noticed my furnace did not blow much heated air through the floor registers, even the registers nearest the furnace, which is located under the stove. I think I will have to do something to get more air flow. I have already found one air conditioner register blocked by a disk of aluminum duct that the mfg., didn't remove when cutting the a/c vents. This may be the case in the furnace. I will be able to thoroughly check it out in a couple of weeks. Let me know if and how you disable the underbelly heat.
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:33 AM   #3
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Make sure you check the specifications on the furnace for the amount of air flow required over the heat exchanger. Too little air and the furnace will probably start cycling on the hi limit. Also, too little air flow can shorten the life of the heat exchanger. I found the ductwork on my furnace had dropped pushing the majority of the heated air into the belly and using excessive propane. I repaired the duct and did make the one to the belly area smaller.
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:54 PM   #4
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I'm looking at this heating system also. I want to use an electric heater instead of the furnace at times, and I need to figure out how to recirculate the room air through the underbelly. I suspect it will be a few weeks before I can decide on something.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:32 PM   #5
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I am resurrecting the thread because I would like to know how the basement heat works. How and where is the basement heated? I would like to see if there is a baffle or flap that is adjustable, or perhaps add one myself. I spend lots of $$ on LP, heating the living space when there isn't a danger of frozen water lines. On those occasions I would like to block off heat going down below. Other times, I am plugged up and using a portable electric heater and would like to have some way of circulating the warm air into the basement when it is freezing outside.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:20 PM   #6
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Had the dealer block mine off as there was poor flow to bathroom and master bedroom becuase of it .
Also had to install closeable registers in main living/dining area as well as bunk house .
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:16 PM   #7
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I am resurrecting the thread because I would like to know how the basement heat works. How and where is the basement heated? I would like to see if there is a baffle or flap that is adjustable, or perhaps add one myself. I spend lots of $$ on LP, heating the living space when there isn't a danger of frozen water lines. On those occasions I would like to block off heat going down below. Other times, I am plugged up and using a portable electric heater and would like to have some way of circulating the warm air into the basement when it is freezing outside.
The 'basement' area has a small duct that leads to a manifold type area just beneath the bathroom in my 31 RETS. I popped it off at the manifold and duct taped the opening closed.

The heated tank area, not so sure. I tried to find where the lead in was with no luck however I only investigated from the top, not the bottom.

The camper is currently at the dealer getting warranty work and this was one of the issues brought up. I want them to disable the duct down there because I don't use the camper in weather where freezing tanks would be an issue. There is nearly zero flow from the heater ducts anyway and I feel that wasting the LP to heat that area is simply that, a waste.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:31 PM   #8
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Not sure about the underbelly either, but, on my "basement", the round louvered vent will rotate. If you rotate it 90 degrees or some amount, it will actually turn off the heat to the basement. I just turned on the fan and went into the basement and turned untill there wasn't any airflow. Very simple and if you ever need the heat there you can get it back without any major untaping of ducts. I also am going to do some work in the underbelly. Planning to drop the entire cover and do a better job of insulating the floor, put foam pipe insulation on water lines, and seal up the edges. Unfortunately it's not going to happen this year.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:12 PM   #9
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Just to update the thread; I see that my furnace is mounted to the floor, and a vent is cut right through the floor right underneath the furnace. There is no easy way to block the vent to the "basement", much less to fabricate an adjustable vent to the "basement". The duct under the furnace appears to be some kind of manifold that provides heat ducting to the living areas of the camper as well. There is a separate duct on the right-hand side towards the bathroom.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:48 PM   #10
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For those expressing an interest in circulating electric heat. I've got pics and description of a mod I did on my recently sold Outback. I added a switch to be able to run the furnace blower, without actually having the furnace ignite. Here's a link

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=85f7a...B9BD05CB%21602
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