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Old 10-29-2012, 09:09 AM   #1
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Sabre winterization question

I just finished winterizing my Sabre for the first time. Although this is my third fifth wheel, I went by my dealer recommendations which were pretty basic and the way I have always done it. With the exception of TWO things. A disclaimer at the bottom of their instruction sheet said "The use of air pressure to blow out the water lines will void your warranty". Never seen or heard of this before.

The other item and question I have is "after draining the hot water heater (Surburban 12 gallon) with anode rod, leave the anode rod out". I noticed when I picked my Sabre up last January it was winterized and the anode rod out. BUT, the threads on the water heater were very, very rusted. I had to use a wire brush to clean them prior to installing the anode rod and filling. I always put the plug back in my Atwood heaters and rods back in Surburban's after draining. Any advice or suggestions on this?
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:33 AM   #2
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1st time winterizing our Sabre too and I blew put the lines before pumping antifreeze thru. If you keep the air pressure low, say 30 PSI, I don't see where there would be a problem. I replaced my anode rod too.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:53 AM   #3
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Th only thing I can think of is someone out there used too much pressure to blow out their lines, so the dealer is CYA's. I would use low pressure and I would not tell them I blew them out.

I always put the rod back into the tank. Like you said the threads get rusted if you don't. Also with that open, some insect may decide your tank will make for a nice home. With the tank drained, I don't see the need to leave it out...
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:08 AM   #4
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X3 on putting rod back in tank after emptying
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:16 AM   #5
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X4 On replacing rod...Also...I never blow out prior to adding antifreeze. I rather displace water than air as we go through the camper opening the varuious plumbing outlets. personal preference I guess!
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:06 PM   #6
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X5 Reinstalling/Replacing rod and reguleaed belo 3 PSI. IMHO.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:38 PM   #7
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have never blown lines out, just add anti freeze until pink flows from all faucets. then a few splashes down the p traps and that pretty much does it. am curios now tho about the water filter on my sabre. how do you folks handle that?
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwaynerz View Post
have never blown lines out, just add anti freeze until pink flows from all faucets. then a few splashes down the p traps and that pretty much does it. am curios now tho about the water filter on my sabre. how do you folks handle that?
I made a by-pass for my filter. Turn by-pass valves take the filter housing off and throw the filter away. I put the housing back on but it will be empty.

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Old 10-30-2012, 11:28 AM   #9
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This is the first year I've had a water filter to worry about and I though about adding a by-pass set-up like ret2006 did...
but...
I went cheap instead and just used a 6" pvc 1/2" nipple to connect the filter's inlet and outlet hoses. I figured it wouldn't be much harder to install the nipple that than it would be to reach in and turn 2 by-pass valves. But I did NOT figure on getting cold water down my sleeve as I was installing it...so I may rethink that for next year.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
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I made a by-pass for my filter. Turn by-pass valves take the filter housing off and throw the filter away. I put the housing back on but it will be empty.
I did something similar, I didn't use valves, I removed the filter housing and connected the two male pex ends with a 6" hose with two 1/2" female ends.

I will not re-install the filter housing in the spring. I use an external filter in the water line/hose connected to the city water hookup.
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