See Level Tank Monitor system install

[SargeW]

Well, I jumped in with both feet today, so to speak. I received my SeeLevel tank monitor system in the mail, and started the deconstruction of the underbelly on the 320RS. I started at the front seam of the underbelly closest to the dump pipe. I peeled most of the black mastic off of the joint, then removed the self tapping metal screws and fender washers.

On the curb side I removed the first 3 screws on the side to free the underbelly. On the drivers side I didn't want to mess with the screws on that side, as the gas line is attached right on top of them. I decided to cut the underbelly with a razor knife about 4" off of the gas line. I will cover that slice with some seam sealing tape at the end of the project.

Rolling the underbelly back I found the ends of the black tank, the shower gray tank, and lots of wires and a few pieces of insulation. The wires were not held up with anything, and just lay on top of the insulation and the underbelly causing it to "bulge" from the weight. I will try to tie them up at the end of the project too.

On the ends of the tank I could see the sensors that are drilled through the ends of the tank. Through the tank sensors are the worst for any kind of accuracy. I will try to reuse those wires to run to the new panels.

On the end of the tanks I could see the sticker from the manufacturer. I googled it and found the company's web site. I researched the tank#, and after searching around, I found that the black and the gray shower tank is the same size. Estimated at 43 gallons each.

Looking back the other way (rearwards) I could see the galley tank. The number on it indicated that it is a 34.5 gallon tank. I am going to look at the gray tanks, but at this point I don't think I am going to be able to join them together. I will know more tomorrow when I pull off the underbelly covering the galley tank and the fresh tank. I haven't seen the fresh tank yet.

I will also be trying to resolve my black tank valve issue. I may reroute or shorten the cable in an attempt to get it to slide easily and close tightly. Here are a few pics that I have taken so far.

BTW, I pulled off the Convenience Center panel on the inside to check the wiring color code. Nope, it doesn't match. Tracing wires is going to be a PITA as well.

[SargeW]

Tank monitor install, day 2. Well today was a good day, work wise. All the sensors are in place, wired up, and the first of two monitor panels is ready to be mounted. The wiring was not near as bad to sort out as I had originally thought.

All the sensors are "test attached" with masking tape prior to peeling off the sticky back and applying to the tank surface (super sticky stuff). I selected the mounting location for the inside monitor panel, pulled the wires down to the Convenience Center and did all the hook ups from there. Since the SeeLevel system uses only 1 wire for all sensors, I was able to pick a wire from one of the existing sensor circuits to use as the lead wire. While I am thinking of it, I determined the color code for the existing tank monitor wires. Blue is for the fresh tank, Brown is the black tank, Gray is the gray tank, and red is the galley tank. For the ground wire on the sensors, I located a ground nut on the frame that already had 2 chassis grounds on it. I added a third to use it as the common ground for all sensors.

I spent some time tying up the tons of loose wires with zip ties. And interestingly enough, the cables for the dump valves work easier now. I don't think I will need to readjust the black valve now.

Tomorrow I will pick a spot for the outside monitor panel, the wires for it are already run so it shouldn't be too bad. I may do Bill's fix and strengthen the back wall of the outside water bay as well.

Today's pics are more of the other two holding tanks, the galley and the fresh tanks. Tomorrow will be the finished pics, I hope......

[sidney]

Good job... Thanks for posting.

[SargeW]

Got the SeeLevel install done today. It took a bit longer than I thought, but I kept getting distracted doing a few other related projects. Putting the 2nd monitor in the bay took longer than I thought as I had trouble making up my mind where it should go.

I finally picked up a water proof box for it, and mounted it just above the dump valves. Now I can monitor tanks inside or out.

I also modified water bay with a board to stiffen the back side where all the accessories are attached. That helped make the whole thing much more stable. While doing so, I went underneath and grind the edge of the frame where the black tank cable passed through. I noted that it was not centered in the hole that was cut for them very well, and it was causing the black tank valve to almost hit the side wall when I pulled it. A few seconds with an air drill with a grinding bit and it works much better (pic).

I also finished up mounting the inside display under the Fantastic Fan control. Good location and easy to read. I did another mod in the plumbing bay, which will be an additional post. I put the underbelly back on and replaced the insulation (yuck). An air compressor and a 3/8" impact wrench made quick work of the bolts.

For repairing the seam that I cut on the drivers side edge, I use seam sealing tape. It's really sticky and easy to apply. I will check tomorrow for it's effectiveness.

[skydriver]

Great post SargeW. Did you make a access panel for the black tank dump valve? If so could you give the size and location of it. My black tank valve leaks a little and I would like to get to it without dropping the whole bottom.
It a shame the way they run wires in these units, I have used at least a hundred wire ties so far and have not got the under belly area yet. Also noticed your valve handles are labeled the same as mine. The one labeled GALLEY goes to the bathroom tank on my 320RS. Will be doing the Seelevle mod this winter, just to hot in south Louisiana to do it now. Again thanks for the post and good info.

[SargeW]

No I didn't, but I know were to find it if I need to. I thought I was having black tank valve issues too, but after making the mod of grinding the edge of the frame so the cable was not forced crooked, tying up the heavy wires crushing down on the length of the cable, and reinforcing the back side of the water bay box, the problem has went away.

One or more of those issues is probably causing your problem as well. I knew that with a rig this new, the likelihood of the valve being bad was pretty small. Instead it was the various issues with the cable not allowing the valve to close tightly. Now when I move the black cable closed I get a positive "click" that the valve has moved the entire range of motion.

The black and grey main tank valves are located just about even with the seam in the underbelly. The black tank valve being closest to the drivers side of the frame.