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Old 12-04-2012, 06:51 PM   #1
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Sigh, lost low point drain caps (SabreSam?)

I blew out my water lines a couple of weeks ago in preparation for colder weather here. I'm starting to de-winterize it in prep for a trip in 2-ish weeks. I have found that apparently I've lost my low-point drain caps. Does anyone know what I need to get as a replacement for these?

Or, Sam, can you save me and tell me that your parts folks will ship some out for the low-low price of $20?

Thanks.

Sincerely,
A dunce
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:00 PM   #2
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Go to Lowes or a local hardware store and get, 1/2" NPT ball valves. Once installed you'll never have to remove them to winterize, only open the valve.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:34 PM   #3
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Low point drains

Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
I blew out my water lines a couple of weeks ago in preparation for colder weather here. I'm starting to de-winterize it in prep for a trip in 2-ish weeks. I have found that apparently I've lost my low-point drain caps. Does anyone know what I need to get as a replacement for these?

Or, Sam, can you save me and tell me that your parts folks will ship some out for the low-low price of $20?

Thanks.

Sincerely,
A dunce
Quick question my drains end in a 1/2NPT plug, are yours caps instead?
No big deal, valves will fit if you insert a close nipple first if they are plugs like mine.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lindy View Post
Go to Lowes or a local hardware store and get, 1/2" NPT ball valves. Once installed you'll never have to remove them to winterize, only open the valve.
I also installed pvc ball valves.
Also ran lengths of pvc out to the side of the 5er so I didn’t have to crawl under every time I wanted to drain.

Also put a ball valve on the fresh water tank drain.



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Old 12-04-2012, 09:33 PM   #5
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My solution (before and after):
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:15 PM   #6
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Great idea. That is going on my "to do" list for next summer.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:04 AM   #7
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My fresh water tank drain already has the valve. It was my 2 low point drains that had caps.

If I want to add these ball valves, what tools do I need/how do I do it? (Mind you, I'm a computer guy with no real handy-man ability.)
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
My solution (before and after):
You always have the best pictures which show/explain/etc. perfectly.

Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
My fresh water tank drain already has the valve. It was my 2 low point drains that had caps.

If I want to add these ball valves, what tools do I need/how do I do it? (Mind you, I'm a computer guy with no real handy-man ability.)

Were they threaded caps?

If so, then look for some threaded ball valves (should be 1/2" NPT) and you will just thread them on in place of the caps.

You will need some teflon tape (thread seal) or paste and some channel lock pliers to hold the threads on the pipe coming out of the trailer and tighten it (the Valve) about as tight as you can get it by hand. (without turning red in the face)

Wrap the teflon tape in the direction of the threads, that is clockwise, or the paste is a bit eaiser to put on. Just a bit messy.

BTW If they are like Herks pic above, the 6 flat spots above the threads is where you hold it with the channel locks.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
My fresh water tank drain already has the valve. It was my 2 low point drains that had caps.

If I want to add these ball valves, what tools do I need/how do I do it? (Mind you, I'm a computer guy with no real handy-man ability.)
I used channel lock pliers to hold the down pipe while I hand tightened the valve. I also added Teflon pipe dope to the threads before I assembled them.

Total time for mod about 10 seconds per valve.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:15 AM   #11
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Oy. 10-seconds- man, that's tough!

Thanks for the info everyone.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:20 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
Oy. 10-seconds- man, that's tough!

Thanks for the info everyone.
Meh, maybe a slight exaggeration. It is a very easy mod.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:32 PM   #13
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It definitely takes longer to go get the parts than to install the valves, even if you have an HD or Lowes less than 5 minutes from your house!
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:12 PM   #14
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I don't doubt that it takes 10 seconds per valve as Herk mentioned...........but that's with help from his pipe dope friend or it woudda taken longer.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:23 PM   #15
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So, I got the ball valves and put them into place this even. Fortunately, "Brian" at Lowes saw that I was lost in the plumbing area and was amazingly helpful. Took me right to what I needed.

Unfortunately, they both leak just a bit. The cold is worse than the warm. I don't know if I did a crappy job taping the threads or what (it was harder to get a clean/flat layer of tape than I expected). I'll try again when it's daylight or possibly try the paste. I don't know.

Oh- the original threaded end pieces had these inserts. Any idea what they are? I had to remove them to get the ball valves installed.

Thanks y'all.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:29 PM   #16
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Try some Rectorseal. That is one of the brands Oatey is another. both are good and a bit eaiser to apply than teflon tape.

Those are compression washers/ferrules to help seal the threaded cap. discard those.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:44 PM   #17
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I highly recommend the Teflon pipe dope.

SOS Products Teflon Pipe Dope

Completely cover the male threads and screw the valve on tight.
Real important to completely cover all sides of the male threads.
Leaving gaps will cause a leak.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:51 PM   #18
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Thanks Herk and Lykage, I'll look for this dope/putty at the big box stores and will redo the valves.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:47 PM   #19
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herk you know it all you should openn up a camper store
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad
So, I got the ball valves and put them into place this even. Fortunately, "Brian" at Lowes saw that I was lost in the plumbing area and was amazingly helpful. Took me right to what I needed.

Unfortunately, they both leak just a bit. The cold is worse than the warm. I don't know if I did a crappy job taping the threads or what (it was harder to get a clean/flat layer of tape than I expected). I'll try again when it's daylight or possibly try the paste. I don't know.

Oh- the original threaded end pieces had these inserts. Any idea what they are? I had to remove them to get the ball valves installed.

Thanks y'all.
Looks like ferrules or gasket installs between the outer nut and the tubing. Used in copper, plastic, stainless tubing, very common. Not the same thread as pipe fittings. I'd take all the above including the caps to Brian and explin the situ. You can also convert the Pex blue/ red tubing to pipe fittings, maybe better, he can show you how.
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