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Old 09-13-2015, 10:19 PM   #11
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Thanks fellas I'll see how all this great info works out. It couldn't be much wrong with it.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:56 PM   #12
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One thing that wasn't mentioned. If there is no 120 volts might want to check the circuit breaker (typically 15 amps) in the rv power distribution center to make sure it hasn't tripped. A complete reset could be in order.
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Old 09-13-2015, 11:04 PM   #13
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Thanks Bubbles i'll relay the info.
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
12V is required to control the WH so also check the DC voltage. If it is too low, it will not operate ( safety feature)
My apologies; just when you think you have it all figured out, they come out with a model that changes everything.

IF the OP has a Suburban Model SW6DEL (it has a panel inside the camper that has switches for AC and Gas Water Heater), there is a need for solid 12 volt DC power to make the AC side work. The AC Switch actually is 12 volt DC that closes a relay to route 120 Volt AC to the AC side of the water heater.
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Old 09-14-2015, 01:03 PM   #15
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There is an electronic modal at the back of the heater. Mine was accessible under the kitchen sink. I found it had fallen to the floor and one wire was pulled off.
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Old 09-14-2015, 04:24 PM   #16
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There is an electronic modal at the back of the heater. Mine was accessible under the kitchen sink. I found it had fallen to the floor and one wire was pulled off.
I believe that is the Control module for the gas ignition system and not anything to do with the AC portion of the heater. The DEL model uses just a relay that may or may not even be on the control board.
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:10 PM   #17
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Thanks for the clarification. I think it was the gas that didn't work and electric was fine.
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