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Old 09-16-2014, 06:33 PM   #21
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Earlier in this thread, there was discussion about accurate tire pressure from gauge to gauge. Let me ask this question. Can you rely on the pressure noted on the TPMS monitor for an accurate tire pressure reading? I have a Tire Minder TPMS and you need to loosen three set screws from each sensor to remove it and check pressure at the valve stem. Kind of time consuming and a pain so I've been using the TPMS monitor to validate pressure. I've checked the pressure noted on the monitor vs. a hand gauge and they're pretty close.
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:40 PM   #22
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I don't trust my tire tracker reading for accuracy. First I don't get any reading until I have gone down the road a bit and the unit wakes up so the tires have started to warm. I also can get a difference of a pound or more when they are heated up. I am not saying the tracker is reading incorrect but I check mine every two weeks early in the AM at the valve. I had a transmitter that was almost 5 pounds off that was replaced, so who knows whats going on with an individual transmitter or the batteries,
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Old 09-25-2014, 09:39 PM   #23
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Any progress on the "non-alignment" issue? Just curious; its good to know as much as I can learn about these tire issues. I am not a mechanic myself, and my DIY experience is more "jack of all trades" rather than much in particular. Just learning as I go.
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:36 PM   #24
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Some progress and some decissions

Hey Puma;

Thanks for asking. I will try to keep it short. (but I didn't ) Attached is a spreadsheet I kept on my trip this summer documenting tread depth. In reality all the mileage is off about 1800 miles as this is the apprx. the number of additional miles on the tires as the rig was towed from Indiana to my dealer in AZ. I had a really long conversation with Lippert. Had one of those guys willing to stay on the line with me and give me some attention and good advice. There is an axle alignment sheet that explains how to check the alignment on their web site. He asked if I ever hit a curb with the tire or rim in question. Who remembers that!. But I most probably have done that by making too tight a turn sometime in the past. Lippert places the axle mounts on the frame and FR mounts the axles. He admitted that sometimes a mistake could be made placing the axle hangers but it has not been an issue in the past

So unless my dealer thinks something different next week when I take the rig in for some work, I have decided to hold off doing anything. I think I will try to get a third summer out out these Westlakes (haven't heard anything horrible about them yet) My thinking is I could go spend $600.00+ and put on different chinese bombs such as Maxxis or Carlise but they are still chinese bombs, maybe with a better reputation, MAYBE. If you look at the spread sheet I still have a great deal of tread after almost 10,000 miles. I agree I have no idea what is going on inside the tire but I would like to monitor the passenger rear that I had problems with and see if it wears as fast as the original. I also fear that having the alignment checked could raise more questions and answers. One thing I must do is get the rig weighed, especially how much weight is on each tire. This is very important info to have. So there is my story. If I can get say 12,000 miles on a set of tires and three summer camping seasons I could live with that and replace tires every three years. Just the cost of the sport. One thing I did do was crawl under the rig and check the camber of each axle. One had 1/4-3/8 camber and the other 3/8-1/2. (the rig is empty, even storage) Lippert said that was good. If my passenger rear continues to wear excessively but the weight looks good, I think it is at that point I would check the alignment. That or trade her in so I could have a brand new set of issues to deal with, just kidding, I don't think my heart could take that.

Keep Safe out there
Attached Files
File Type: docx Westlake Tread Deapth DOC.docx (15.7 KB, 42 views)
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Old 09-26-2014, 02:21 PM   #25
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Smile

Thanks for the update. I think your estimate/goal of three seasons per set of tires squares with my experience so far. It sort of corresponds to the longevity of bottom paint on a boat. That is my other hobby/toy/money pit! You just have to plan on wear and tear with some regularity and not let it get you down. My goal is to have three safe seasons. I just don't even want to think about tire blow outs with a double trailer UPS truck on one side and gasoline tanker on the other, all of us going in excess of 55 mph on a bad Interstate (like I-65 between Louisville and Indianapolis ) Take care. Herschel
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Old 09-26-2014, 04:52 PM   #26
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Food for thought. Are you the exception or the normal with your 10000 miles on tires. I have been watching the forums and perhaps only the exceptions are being talked about. I personally have had my trailer about 2 years and have had terrible wear patterns and sidewall issues. I have had to replace all 4 tires with less than 2000 miles on them. Personally I think the manufactures are spec'ing the undercarriage hardware (axle, rims, tires) way to close for my comfort. For example I have 3500 lb axles but my trailer weighs 6508 lbs naked and with a 1104 lb load capacity, that is way to close for my liking. Tires and rims that have ratings of 1820 lb ratings with GVWR (7650 lbs) that takes it 5% above the capacity of the undercarriage hardware. Why do we as consumers stand for it? After all these trailers cost as much as a new car and they are not being held to the standards we expect from the car industry. Why???
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:11 PM   #27
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I agree

Agree with all you say and it has been said many times before on this forum. As far as tire wear, I think every rig is different. I do not know if I am the norm or exception but what would that change for me? I might have something to compare to but so what. If I had a rig that constantly went through tires every 2000 miles and I could not fix it, I would trade it in. Like I said 3 seasons and 12K miles I can live with. That's my tipping point. These are not cars and that discussion has been had on this forum as well. True they do cut things too close but it is all about the almighty dollar and always will be. You didn't have to buy that rig. You could have shopped for better specs (if they exist) Don't get me wrong I had 36 items on my first punch list ALL but one factory construction screw ups. I am lucky I have a good local dealer. That is the reason I didn't travel 2000 miles to save a few thousand dollars. I wanted dealer allegiance and I got it. Why do we put up with this, because we want the rigs and the lifestyle and until Japan or South Korea or some other country starts importing quality price competitive products (aka the auto industry during the 70's) you get what you get. Research and do the best you can or or buy a rental home.

We are all in the same boat.

That's my two cents anyway.
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:32 PM   #28
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Agreed should have been more analytically with the infrastructure component but that is my lesson learned. But NEW BUYER BEWARE you are not buying a car that has consumer safety as a top priority....
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Old 09-27-2014, 01:04 PM   #29
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My tire issues have been both dry rot and uneven tread wear. The previous owner and I both kept the trailer on concrete or gravel while in storage, but I developed enough dry rot to warrant replacement at the three year mark on the original tires. Inexpensive replacements gave me a good 8,000 miles (with close checking of air pressure) on a long summer trip from Florida to California, Utah, and Colorado and back and a subsequent trip to Michigan and back. One problem related to tire wear cropped up when I didn't check the service technician when replacement tires were made after that, and the pressure was way too low for the first day out on a return trip back to Michigan. That led to an early replacement of that tire. Since then I have replaced that tire and another that just did not hold pressure reliably. I bumped up my budget for tires and got better Good Years on the advice of my father-in-law who has been having his own tire issues with his 5th wheel. I do store on concrete and religiously cover the tires with vinyl covers. I have seen some advice on this forum to weigh each wheel. I use the scale at my local land fill, and I am lucky enough to get the trailer weighed before the landscape and construction guys lined up behind are ready to "weed whack" me! Where would we get the weight on one wheel?
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Old 09-27-2014, 01:22 PM   #30
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Hey Puma;

I would just put one wheel at a time on the scale by using the front and back of the scale and moving forward or backward at the edge of the scale (Left or Right side) I am new to this weighing thing as well but in my very small mind that is how I see me doing it.

I am sure someone else can pipe in here. It is a good idea to do.
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