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Old 09-15-2014, 07:05 PM   #31
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You have to wonder how all the studs sheared off. Maybe a defect when they where hardened? I would look at replacing all studs when you have a chance just to be sure.
I would bet on some kid with a impact gun hammering on them with 120-130 PSI.
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:07 PM   #32
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You have to wonder how all the studs sheared off. Maybe a defect when they where hardened? I would look at replacing all studs when you have a chance just to be sure.
Assuming they were serrated studs, they would have been 'case hardened" and thus not have been the defect causing them to break as would a "thru' hardened" stud. Suspect the wheel was not seated completely on the hub when the lug nuts were tightened originally. Once the wheel "seated" on the hub, the lugs were loose and the wheel sheared the studs.
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:14 PM   #33
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I would bet on some kid with a impact gun hammering on them with 120-130 PSI.
The marking on the hub shows the wheel was not seated properly and was loose on the hub.
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:34 PM   #34
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The marking on the hub shows the wheel was not seated properly and was loose on the hub.
Looks like maybe the wheel spun on the hub a time or three before it left the road.

But what ever.

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Old 09-15-2014, 08:46 PM   #35
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The marking on the hub shows the wheel was not seated properly and was loose on the hub.
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Looks like maybe the wheel spun on the hub a time or three before it left the road.
From what I can discern from the experience and discussion here, I intend to replace all of the brake drums - which will include the studs. Fortunately I have a very reliable dealer in Albuquerque (Aloha RV), the shop of which has done work for me in the past and I trust will do the job properly.
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Old 09-15-2014, 08:53 PM   #36
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From what I can discern from the experience and discussion here, I intend to replace all of the brake drums - which will include the studs. Fortunately I have a very reliable dealer in Albuquerque (Aloha RV), the shop of which has done work for me in the past and I trust will do the job properly.
The studs can be replaced, I am not sure but ask if the drums can be turned this will be a little bit cheaper and if done right just as good.

The money is yours so do what ever makes you happy but I'd rather spend it on fuel or other.
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:21 PM   #37
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From what I can discern from the experience and discussion here, I intend to replace all of the brake drums - which will include the studs. Fortunately I have a very reliable dealer in Albuquerque (Aloha RV), the shop of which has done work for me in the past and I trust will do the job properly.
Why replace the drums? I would definitely put all new studs in just to be sure it wasn't an over zealous tech with an air wrench. Regardless of new hubs or new studs, make sure you torque and re-torque every 75-100 miles the wheels as you will now have to insure the studs are seated as well as the lug nuts to the alum wheels.
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:37 PM   #38
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From what I can discern from the experience and discussion here, I intend to replace all of the brake drums - which will include the studs. Fortunately I have a very reliable dealer in Albuquerque (Aloha RV), the shop of which has done work for me in the past and I trust will do the job properly.

Are you also replacing the tire that did not blow on the compromised side? After carrying the additional weight, for any distance at all, may very well have suffered structural damage or breakdown. I did not listen to that advice after traveling on one, only to have that one blow out two trips later.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:02 PM   #39
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Why replace the drums? I would definitely put all new studs in just to be sure it wasn't an over zealous tech with an air wrench. Regardless of new hubs or new studs, make sure you torque and re-torque every 75-100 miles the wheels as you will now have to insure the studs are seated as well as the lug nuts to the alum wheels.
The one drum has to be replaced - when it was "fixed" the only available studs had a taller head than what was needed. The heads were ground down to clear the brake magnet; but that didn't work. Longer story and all, but it's gotta go. I'll discuss the new studs in the remaining drums idea with my shop. I was thinking it would be cheaper just to replace the drums with lugs installed rather than the cost of removing/installing lugs. Thanks for the input & idea.

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Are you also replacing the tire that did not blow on the compromised side? After carrying the additional weight, for any distance at all, may very well have suffered structural damage or breakdown. I did not listen to that advice after traveling on one, only to have that one blow out two trips later.
The wheel loss occurred about 1,500 miles into a 4,000 mile trip. The remaining tire lasted all the way home - thankfully. I do intend to replace it, as you suggest, before our next venture. Thanks for the input.
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:19 PM   #40
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I had two catastrophic blowouts due to tread/radial separation on my 2012 32BHTS. I have less than 1000 miles total on the RV. One tire blew/fell apart on 24 October while driving 55 MPH, second tire blew/fell apart on 26 October while driving 45 MPH. Over $1500.00 in damage to the RV due to the belt separation wrapping around the axle and slapping the RV. Cost me almost $1000.00 to replace all 5 tires with better quality. I lost my RV brakes because the wires to the brakes were broken when the piece of tire wrapped around the axle. The DEL-NAT AKURET HF 188 tires were manufactured 0911 and put into use Jan/Feb 12. I need to determine what assistance PALOMINO (Forest River) will render with repairs.
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