Well, I Joined the "China Bomb" Club

[Cobrafan]

We just came back from a 4,600 mile 4 week trip to Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, South Dakota, down to Missouri and back to TX. No issues with the G rated Handkook LT 750 x 16 F19 tires. Last yr we took a 2,000 mile trip to Florida and back. Piece of mind with G rated tires. G rated tires are the only way to go.

[chiro]

I just got rid of a set of "private label" tires, westlake. i had them one week from the factory. I could not travel with them. I have had to many bad experiences with "private label' tires bowing, bubbling throwing tread etc. I went with the goodyear g614. They are very nice and should last forever. They have a much better ride than the westlakes and maxxis. I have also had maxxis and they have been very good tires. I didn't use them this time because of the load carrying capacity.

[Cobrafan]

Originally Posted by chiro

I just got rid of a set of "private label" tires, westlake. i had them one week from the factory. I could not travel with them. I have had to many bad experiences with "private label' tires bowing, bubbling throwing tread etc. I went with the goodyear g614. They are very nice and should last forever. They have a much better ride than the westlakes and maxxis. I have also had maxxis and they have been very good tires. I didn't use them this time because of the load carrying capacity.

There you go, G rated tires give you piece of mind.

[Char_n_Kath]

While this is not an "endorsement" of the China brand "Triangle" tires that came on my trailer from the factory, I have to give the tires credit after loosing a wheel. This tire held up 60 +/- miles, doing 50-60 mph, in the rain after the other entire wheel separated without my knowing it.

[DocGTO]

While driving to and from Orlando for my son's competitive soccer game I saw 2 trailers on the side of the road with blow outs.... One fiver and one TT. This is another reason I pull the bombs off as I don not want to be part of the club! LOL

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Char_n_Kath

While this is not an "endorsement" of the China brand "Triangle" tires that came on my trailer from the factory, I have to give the tires credit after loosing a wheel. This tire held up 60 +/- miles, doing 50-60 mph, in the rain after the other entire wheel separated without my knowing it.

How did you determine the 60+miles? Did you go back and get the tire/wheel?

[Char_n_Kath]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

How did you determine the 60+miles? Did you go back and get the tire/wheel?

The 60 +/- miles was the distance from Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone, where I started the morning & knew the wheel was on, to Livingston, MT, where I stopped for gas and discovered the wheel missing. I did not attempt to find the wheel. Could have been anywhere from 1 mile to 60 miles down the road.

Charlie

[offroad]

Looks like the studs were all sheared off , bet that was a shocker when you saw it.

[Char_n_Kath]

Originally Posted by offroad

Looks like the studs were all sheared off , bet that was a shocker when you saw it.

Absolutely! All I could say to my wife was "we've got a major problem." The studs all sheared below the surface of the drum (see attached). Fortunately, I found an honest mechanic on a Saturday to get me on my way.

Charlie

[B and B]

You have to wonder how all the studs sheared off. Maybe a defect when they where hardened? I would look at replacing all studs when you have a chance just to be sure.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by B and B

You have to wonder how all the studs sheared off. Maybe a defect when they where hardened? I would look at replacing all studs when you have a chance just to be sure.

I would bet on some kid with a impact gun hammering on them with 120-130 PSI.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by B and B

You have to wonder how all the studs sheared off. Maybe a defect when they where hardened? I would look at replacing all studs when you have a chance just to be sure.

Assuming they were serrated studs, they would have been 'case hardened" and thus not have been the defect causing them to break as would a "thru' hardened" stud. Suspect the wheel was not seated completely on the hub when the lug nuts were tightened originally. Once the wheel "seated" on the hub, the lugs were loose and the wheel sheared the studs.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

I would bet on some kid with a impact gun hammering on them with 120-130 PSI.

The marking on the hub shows the wheel was not seated properly and was loose on the hub.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The marking on the hub shows the wheel was not seated properly and was loose on the hub.

Looks like maybe the wheel spun on the hub a time or three before it left the road.

But what ever.

[Char_n_Kath]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The marking on the hub shows the wheel was not seated properly and was loose on the hub.

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Looks like maybe the wheel spun on the hub a time or three before it left the road.

From what I can discern from the experience and discussion here, I intend to replace all of the brake drums - which will include the studs. Fortunately I have a very reliable dealer in Albuquerque (Aloha RV), the shop of which has done work for me in the past and I trust will do the job properly.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Char_n_Kath

From what I can discern from the experience and discussion here, I intend to replace all of the brake drums - which will include the studs. Fortunately I have a very reliable dealer in Albuquerque (Aloha RV), the shop of which has done work for me in the past and I trust will do the job properly.

The studs can be replaced, I am not sure but ask if the drums can be turned this will be a little bit cheaper and if done right just as good.

The money is yours so do what ever makes you happy but I'd rather spend it on fuel or other.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Char_n_Kath

From what I can discern from the experience and discussion here, I intend to replace all of the brake drums - which will include the studs. Fortunately I have a very reliable dealer in Albuquerque (Aloha RV), the shop of which has done work for me in the past and I trust will do the job properly.

Why replace the drums? I would definitely put all new studs in just to be sure it wasn't an over zealous tech with an air wrench. Regardless of new hubs or new studs, make sure you torque and re-torque every 75-100 miles the wheels as you will now have to insure the studs are seated as well as the lug nuts to the alum wheels.

[lgray]

Originally Posted by Char_n_Kath

From what I can discern from the experience and discussion here, I intend to replace all of the brake drums - which will include the studs. Fortunately I have a very reliable dealer in Albuquerque (Aloha RV), the shop of which has done work for me in the past and I trust will do the job properly.

Are you also replacing the tire that did not blow on the compromised side? After carrying the additional weight, for any distance at all, may very well have suffered structural damage or breakdown. I did not listen to that advice after traveling on one, only to have that one blow out two trips later.

[Char_n_Kath]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Why replace the drums? I would definitely put all new studs in just to be sure it wasn't an over zealous tech with an air wrench. Regardless of new hubs or new studs, make sure you torque and re-torque every 75-100 miles the wheels as you will now have to insure the studs are seated as well as the lug nuts to the alum wheels.

The one drum has to be replaced - when it was "fixed" the only available studs had a taller head than what was needed. The heads were ground down to clear the brake magnet; but that didn't work. Longer story and all, but it's gotta go. I'll discuss the new studs in the remaining drums idea with my shop. I was thinking it would be cheaper just to replace the drums with lugs installed rather than the cost of removing/installing lugs. Thanks for the input & idea.

Originally Posted by lgray

Are you also replacing the tire that did not blow on the compromised side? After carrying the additional weight, for any distance at all, may very well have suffered structural damage or breakdown. I did not listen to that advice after traveling on one, only to have that one blow out two trips later.

The wheel loss occurred about 1,500 miles into a 4,000 mile trip. The remaining tire lasted all the way home - thankfully. I do intend to replace it, as you suggest, before our next venture. Thanks for the input.

[haluski]

I had two catastrophic blowouts due to tread/radial separation on my 2012 32BHTS. I have less than 1000 miles total on the RV. One tire blew/fell apart on 24 October while driving 55 MPH, second tire blew/fell apart on 26 October while driving 45 MPH. Over $1500.00 in damage to the RV due to the belt separation wrapping around the axle and slapping the RV. Cost me almost $1000.00 to replace all 5 tires with better quality. I lost my RV brakes because the wires to the brakes were broken when the piece of tire wrapped around the axle. The DEL-NAT AKURET HF 188 tires were manufactured 0911 and put into use Jan/Feb 12. I need to determine what assistance PALOMINO (Forest River) will render with repairs.