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10-30-2014, 02:07 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: China Grove, NC
Posts: 321
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Winterizing Question
I have a Sabre 36QBOK-7. I just winterized it this past weekend. I had to have my neighbor help me. I switched both my water heater bypass and the winterize levers to the correct positions. I opened my low point drains, then turned on all faucets in the trailer and blew all water out of the lines using approx. 45 lbs. of air pressure. I removed the anode rod from the water heater and drained it too.
After blowing out the lines I put the low point drain caps back on and closed all faucets in the trailer. I hooked up the hose to the winterizing port and stuck the other end of the hose into the pink antifreeze and flipped on the pump.
Here is where I had an issue. It wouldn't suck up the pink antifreeze from the bottle. I ended up having to have my neighbor hold the bottle up where it was higher than the winterizing port and then it started flowing. Is this normal? I thought I could drop a hose in the bottle and then walk through the trailer opening and closing faucets and flushing toilets and be done quickly. Not so much.
What did I do wrong. The hose was approx. 5 ft. long so that I could set the bottle on the driveway and the other end hooked to the winterizing port on the trailer.
Anyone have any suggestions for me. I will be using the trailer again right after Christmas so I will have to winterize it again and would like it to be a little easier next time.
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10-30-2014, 02:13 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,024
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"The hose was approx. 5 ft. long"
Way too long...remember the water pump has to suck up all the air to make a suction before the water will start to get pulled.
My hose is only a couple of feet and I put the bottle of antifreeze on the paint tray of my 6-foot ladder so it's up as close to the inlet as possible.
__________________
Rick & Karen
(Retired USAF, MSgt)
Monument, Colorado
8-year Travel Trailer RVers
2013 Forest River Rockwood Ultra-Lite 2904SS
2014 Toyota Tundra Maxcrew SR-5 TRD 4x4 (with Firestone airbags in the rear)
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10-30-2014, 02:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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Make sure the end of your hose does not curl up in the anti-freeze jug otherwise it will not pull...end of hose has to be pointing straight down, I tape tygon tubing to an extra long screwdriver or a piece of wood......
__________________
Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
2019 F350 Ruby Red 6.7l diesel 3.31 axle electronic locker
Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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10-30-2014, 02:41 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: BoCoMo
Posts: 2,784
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imo... the psi may be a little high when blowing out lines.
I do not use the pump to fill up the lines with RV anti-freeze. I use a gravity hose and pour it in.
__________________
Brother Les
2013 Forest River Salem Hemisphere SBT312QBUD
2001 CrewCab F-250 7.3 PowerStroke Diesel
SuperChip, BTS transmission, 6.0 Trans Cooler
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10-30-2014, 02:42 PM
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#5
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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You didn't say anything about removing water filter...........
Turbs
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10-30-2014, 02:44 PM
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#6
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Take The Road Less Travld
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzie
Make sure the end of your hose does not curl up in the anti-freeze jug otherwise it will not pull...end of hose has to be pointing straight down, I tape tygon tubing to an extra long screwdriver or a piece of wood......
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5 feet is kinda long, but otherwise should work. I would use a shorter hose just because of waste in the hose leading into your system vs what's actually pumped in the system. But I'm sure you would have noticed if the antifreeze was only being sucked half way up or not at all. Halfway means shorten your hose, not at all means you have something open...or closed. The only thing I don't remember you mentioning was turning the cutoff valve for your water tank to your antifreeze inlet.
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"Take The Road Less Traveled"
2020 Cherokee 294BH
2021 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.6 Duramax Diesel
I've been an RVer since 2007, Lifetime Camper
Gotta love the Outdoors, Disconnect and Enjoy Nature!
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10-30-2014, 02:44 PM
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#7
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Take The Road Less Travld
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
You didn't say anything about removing water filter...........
Turbs
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That too
__________________
"Take The Road Less Traveled"
2020 Cherokee 294BH
2021 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.6 Duramax Diesel
I've been an RVer since 2007, Lifetime Camper
Gotta love the Outdoors, Disconnect and Enjoy Nature!
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10-30-2014, 08:36 PM
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#8
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Are we there yet.......
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 166
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Winterizing Question
I too have the 36qbok. Last year I had the same issue until I noticed I had the hose connected to the wrong inlet. There is one the just for winterizing. Then all will go fine. 2.5 will fill all to outside kitchen. :-) don't forget the washer/dryer lines
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10-31-2014, 01:30 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: China Grove, NC
Posts: 321
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I did take out the water filter, I also did bypass the hot water heater and I also got the washer and dryer lines. I was hooked up to winterizing connection.
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10-31-2014, 01:59 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 294
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I had this exact scenario happen to me this year and once before as well. I assume it's something to do with air being in the lines but usually turning on a tap briefly to relieve the pressure will get things moving.
Note: This time I tried to get it going by opening the kitchen sink tap with no luck. I then moved around the trailer trying other taps and when I hit the outdoor shower BINGO the suction kicked in and the pink started flowing.
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Nights camped
2007 Shamrock F19 hybrid - 2010 (22 nights), 2011 (24 nights), 2012 (11 nights)
2013 Surveyor Select 235RKS - 2012 (6 nights), 2013 (32 nights), 2014 (26 nights), 2015 (37 nights), 2016 (14 nights)
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10-31-2014, 02:08 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Suburban Detroit
Posts: 67
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There is a valve that you have to turn that changes the input to the water pump from the fresh water tank to the antifreeze inlet connection. On my trailer that valve is located in the same compartment as the water pump.
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Rick (K8RWG), Joy, and Daffy (the spoiled Calico cat)
2014 Rockwood 8315BSS
2016 F250 SC LWB 4x4 6.2 3.73
Reese Dual Cam
Honda EU2000i
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10-31-2014, 02:25 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,334
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It sounds like you did everything right. Did you hear the pump kick on when you flipped the switch?
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11-01-2014, 09:31 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: China Grove, NC
Posts: 321
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Yes. I could hear the pump
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11-08-2014, 05:48 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1
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Winterizing Question
On my Sabre the water inlet for winterizing had a back flow valve installed in it similar to your city water inlet. This valve requires a pressure differential in order to open and allow antifreeze to flow. If you've blown the lines out the pump will not have a water source to prime and you have no pressure on the other side of the valve so it will not open. The valve really isn't required since there is no pressure on this inlet in normal operation (i.e. with the winterizing valve turned for normal summer use). I removed the valve and re-installed the water inlet and all the issues I had with getting antifreeze to draw went away.
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11-10-2014, 09:37 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Lexington, Ky
Posts: 451
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I am having the same issue. I winterized last year without a problem but this year, after making the proper switch's, I opened the cold water at the kitchen sink. After the pink started flowing I turned it off and then turned on the hot water....nothing...and after that could not get it to draw on cold or hot in the OK, main kitchen or bathroom...I didn't try all ie..the outside shower. After an hour of frustration I blew out the lines with my compressor and backfilled with pink stuff in the drains. I wondered if somehow my pump got vapor locked but that could not explain why it started off ok when drawing from the cold outlet and then nothing after trying the hot...I have considered filling my fresh water tank and "priming" the pump. I also will check for a backfill valve as suggested. I can hear the pump running and it just didn't have enough umph to suck up the pink stuff and yes, I am using a short hose. I also may try all outlets, including the outside shower. Temp are going to plummet this weekend so I hope blowing out the lines and backfilling work until I can figure out why I can't run the pink stuff through. If it fails again I do have a manual pump and will run the pink in that way.
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2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Charleston
2008 Ford F350 King Ranch CC DRW 6.4l, 4.10 diff
B&W companion
Airlift system/on board compressor
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11-19-2014, 04:02 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 10
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Winterizing Question
How do i drain fresh water tank. It does not have a drain vale as I can find
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11-20-2014, 11:11 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: BoCoMo
Posts: 2,784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken1960
How do i drain fresh water tank. It does not have a drain vale as I can find
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What type of unit do you have? There will be a drain on it.
__________________
Brother Les
2013 Forest River Salem Hemisphere SBT312QBUD
2001 CrewCab F-250 7.3 PowerStroke Diesel
SuperChip, BTS transmission, 6.0 Trans Cooler
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11-20-2014, 11:12 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 10
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33ckts
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11-20-2014, 11:17 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 10
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There is just 2 lines sticking through hot an cold
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11-20-2014, 11:25 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: BoCoMo
Posts: 2,784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedcat
I am having the same issue. I winterized last year without a problem but this year, after making the proper switch's, I opened the cold water at the kitchen sink. After the pink started flowing I turned it off and then turned on the hot water....nothing...and after that could not get it to draw on cold or hot in the OK, main kitchen or bathroom...I didn't try all ie..the outside shower. After an hour of frustration I blew out the lines with my compressor and backfilled with pink stuff in the drains. I wondered if somehow my pump got vapor locked but that could not explain why it started off ok when drawing from the cold outlet and then nothing after trying the hot...I have considered filling my fresh water tank and "priming" the pump. I also will check for a backfill valve as suggested. I can hear the pump running and it just didn't have enough umph to suck up the pink stuff and yes, I am using a short hose. I also may try all outlets, including the outside shower. Temp are going to plummet this weekend so I hope blowing out the lines and backfilling work until I can figure out why I can't run the pink stuff through. If it fails again I do have a manual pump and will run the pink in that way.
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Is your hot water heater drained and the by-pass valve turned? Can you get to your water pump? disconnect the inlet side of the water pump and use a short adapter hose connected to it and suck the RV pink stuff directly out of the jug. If the pump has lost its' prime, take the short hose that you put on the inlet side of the pump, turn it up and with a funnel, pour the pink stuff in to get it primed.
__________________
Brother Les
2013 Forest River Salem Hemisphere SBT312QBUD
2001 CrewCab F-250 7.3 PowerStroke Diesel
SuperChip, BTS transmission, 6.0 Trans Cooler
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