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Old 03-23-2014, 01:25 AM   #11
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I got a digital thermostat and my monthly power bill dropped $60-80 a month.

Obviously, your mileage may vary.
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Old 03-23-2014, 04:43 AM   #12
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I got a digital thermostat and my monthly power bill dropped $60-80 a month.

Obviously, your mileage may vary.
To answer the op question that was asked, You will save money by dropping the temp while a way. There is really no point in heating or cooling a house when you are not in it. I also was in the business for over 20 years and it is a proven fact that you will save money. The best money that you can spend is on insulation. The better your insulation the less heat / lost gain will happen. I have a trane stat I drop the temp to 65 during the night from 72 during the day. It is now 4:30AM I checked my stat the reading say's my house is 72 and outside stat say's it 46 degrees. I have a duel system hp/oil combination. When I leave for a month I program the # of days I will be gone and set it at 45 on hold til the day before I get home then it heats my house to 72 When I come home my house is then 72. There is no way possible that by doing that I do not save money on my electric bill. Proven fact my bill drops more then 50% for that cycle. So to answer the op question is yes drop your temp down. For someone to say that you do not save money or energy is just being uninformed IMO. I also do the same on the a/c side set it at 85 when I'm gone and 74 when I return. I also shut my water heater off and close my valve for the city water. I totally agree with knights statement. You save, but it depends on location and how your home is insulated. I do not understand the post about the battery's made my pipe's break. Battery's are only used to hold your program, your stat runs off of 24v not battery. That is another reason I turn off the water valve. Lets remember that I do this when I'm gone for extended period of time not just a short weekend trip.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:33 AM   #13
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I do not understand the post about the battery's made my pipe's break. Battery's are only used to hold your program, your stat runs off of 24v not battery..

He's referring to the digital thermostats not having a dedicated common wire hooked up from the furnace. When you don't have enough conductors in your thermostat wire for a common you can use the batteries instead for that connection. The batteries are there to hold the program but also to power the digital stat in the event that you don't hook up the common wire. Is this case when your batts die your system dies!
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:40 AM   #14
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I turn the furnace down about 3-4 degrees while at work and while in bed. It definitely runs less at even that little of a difference and doesn't take long to get back those few degrees.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:10 AM   #15
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Retired and when at home we drop the temps back to 68* winter and 70* summer before going to bed, sleep better in cooler temps. Same in the RV when we are on the road. When we are away from home for extended periods of time the set points are 85* summer and 45* winter. Always turn city water off when leaving the house for more than a weekend.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:11 AM   #16
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He's referring to the digital thermostats not having a dedicated common wire hooked up from the furnace. When you don't have enough conductors in your thermostat wire for a common you can use the batteries instead for that connection. The batteries are there to hold the program but also to power the digital stat in the event that you don't hook up the common wire. Is this case when your batts die your system dies!
I would like to see that wire diagram or the model. Stats that are not HP have 4 wires Red for 24v yellow for compressor green for the fan and white for heat. The battery only holds the program incase of lost of 24v (only holds you program). How does 12v battery turn a furnace on. You do not need a common wire for a 24 volt stat. All controls are 24v. You can take the red and white wire and tie them together and your burner will ignite, where is the common come in then? The white , yellow and green do not have voltage to them the red is the only power wire. The subbase is what transfers the 24 volt from the red. I have put in 100's of digital setback stats. I have been out off the business since 1994 when I retired I guess they made some changes that I do not know of. That's a good reason why you turn your water off where it enters your home or at the meter. But in my Town it is against Our Town Ord. to touch the meter. But there is still a valve inside your home.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:01 AM   #17
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I would like to see that wire diagram or the model. Stats that are not HP have 4 wires Red for 24v yellow for compressor green for the fan and white for heat. The battery only holds the program incase of lost of 24v (only holds you program). How does 12v battery turn a furnace on. You do not need a common wire for a 24 volt stat. All controls are 24v. You can take the red and white wire and tie them together and your burner will ignite, where is the common come in then? The white , yellow and green do not have voltage to them the red is the only power wire. The subbase is what transfers the 24 volt from the red. I have put in 100's of digital setback stats. I have been out off the business since 1994 when I retired I guess they made some changes that I do not know of. That's a good reason why you turn your water off where it enters your home or at the meter. But in my Town it is against Our Town Ord. to touch the meter. But there is still a valve inside your home.

Judging by the statement you've been out of the business for 20 years you must not be current on today's stats. I'm an hvac contractor and stats have changed tremendously since 1994. I understand everything your saying about jumping wires but any newer digital (not mercury old style) needs and R and C (24v) to power up the display. If you don't have the extra conductor in your current Tstat wire then you can use the batteries to power the digital thermostat! Guess what? When the batteries dies you lose your display and the thermostat will not function. I always stress hooking up the common wire providing it's there
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:37 AM   #18
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Judging by the statement you've been out of the business for 20 years you must not be current on today's stats. I'm an hvac contractor and stats have changed tremendously since 1994. I understand everything your saying about jumping wires but any newer digital (not mercury old style) needs and R and C (24v) to power up the display. If you don't have the extra conductor in your current Tstat wire then you can use the batteries to power the digital thermostat! Guess what? When the batteries dies you lose your display and the thermostat will not function. I always stress hooking up the common wire providing it's there
You are probably right, I would never buy a stat that a battery is required to operate. I have a Honeywell/trane TCONT800. Just pulled the manual the only reason they state that I need 3 AAA battery's are for "arm chair programing" Then it says you can then remove the batteries if you want or leave them in. You see you are right there has been changes in the industry since I was in Business. Now your fan manufacturers and everyone else making stats like Hunter the fan people and everyone else that will buy there cheap stuff at any big box store. I prefer to stick to honeywell, Robertshaw, white rodgers. People save a dime here and spent 1000.00 for repairs. Thanks for your clarification. It's to bad about his water pipe, I wouldn't be a happy camper when I got home... PS Mercury stats, I'm not that old that I only installed Mercury stats. They were gone a while before I retired.
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:05 AM   #19
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I have a 1950's brick Bungalow. The thermostat is programed to go cooler from 70 to 67 over night and during the day when nobody is home. Since doing this my heat (gas) bill has dropped over $40.00 per month. 3 degrees is not a huge difference in comfort but it is in price!

21 more Days and it's open season! Hopefully there will be no more snow!
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