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Old 07-15-2016, 06:23 PM   #21
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But the flow of cold air through a light fixture is odd.. no?
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Old 07-15-2016, 07:00 PM   #22
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You can probably climb on top and pull the cover off the unit.

If it's 80 degrees, it shouldn't take long for the system to defrost.

I'm just passing on what worked for me.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:41 PM   #23
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Thanks
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Old 07-16-2016, 10:36 AM   #24
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Pull your interior cover off and look at the area where the air moves into the ductwork. Mine a 1" hole in the metal tape and the air was going into the ceiling . I repaired that and then removed all vents and retaped them as well, most of the tape was loose and either blocking air flow or allowing it to escape I to the ceiling. The last thing I did was place a towel just past the last vent forcing the air out the vent instead of wherever it went.
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:17 PM   #25
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Thank you for the idea. I pulled the cover off zone 1 (living room) and it was a mess.. tape blocking duct back to rear vents , the forward duct was missing tape over 80% of it with gaps I could put my hand through..
I fixed all that mess then I went to each vent, all but one had large openings to the ceiling. Fixed these areas.. the zone 2 (master bedroom) AC had only a small 1"x1" gap... repaired that as well. I turned the living room unit on and could feel a 90% increase in flow out if the rear most vent.. even had air coming out of bedroom vents too...
Only thing is, somewhere cold air is getting into ceiling as I could still feel it coming from a bathroom (above toilet) light when cover is removed. Must be where two ducts are joining and will likely stay that way..
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Old 07-17-2016, 08:47 AM   #26
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Great to here it worked. It's sad we have to go through all of this after spending $45000-$50000 on a new rig.

Camp on and stay cool.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:14 PM   #27
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381 RBOK Leaking Ducts

I went on my roof (2016 381 RBOK) and saw a wet spot near the rear skylight for the bunk room. It was condensation and the roof was cool there. I went up there several mornings and it was always the same place. The dealer had to pull the roof panel down from the bunk room and found the AC ducts were separated in that area. It was blowing air directly to the underside of the roof.

I also had to have extra return ducts installed. I just picked it up this morning and hopefully it cools adequately now. So far, the cooling of this trailer has been far below adequate.
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Old 07-23-2016, 05:42 PM   #28
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2016 365SAQB that had a few issues that I fixed myself. Leaky AC duct at the unit was an issue and even though the dealer fixed it I wasn't real happy with the finished product and taped it up myself. Some of the AC vents had poor taping as well. We have been 100 degrees in direct sunlight and seem to hover around 78 with both units running. Cools off fine at night. Thinking of adding a 3rd unit to the rear bunkhouse area. Yes...gonna take some engineering.

Otherwise minor issues that I fixed and fixed correctly. I am amazed though that there are not stricter quality control measures on these things.
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:22 PM   #29
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Sounds about the same as mine.. I am now dealing with the living room unit not performing as good as the bedroom units (air is not as cold). I may just replace with 15,000 btu unit and be done with it... it's under warranty but that takes months to get the dealer to respond and repair. I don't have that kind of time. It's been high 90s here and I struggle to get below 80 in living area until after dark.. 79 right now.
There is no quality control.
Before I purchase another one I will be looking at it in more detail and performing some performance tests prior to accepting delivery...
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:43 AM   #30
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I posted pics of the vent issues one time. My 371Rebh had large gaps in the return section, which made me want to inspect further, so off came the vents covers and all of them needed some attention. Retapeing corrected it. I still check em all periodically when cleaing or changing filters.
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:21 PM   #31
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My vents were as yours...
I am now noticing a 74* output temp from my rear (zone 1 living room) AC unit and the bedroom (zone 2) is 56*......
Calling a technician... cheaper than dragging to dealer and waiting weeks for fix..
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Old 08-02-2016, 08:48 PM   #32
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We just bought a 2017 376-BHOK and I noticed a lot of these problems on ours during the PDI. Dealer says it will fix them, but we will see Friday when we do the final walk through. Is there anything else I should look for? Would it be worth buying the Good Sam Club warranty to avoid problems like this?
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:29 AM   #33
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I pulled down every vent in my 381RBOK, and found that none of them had any tape. The dealer says they are "sealed" by the plastic insert. Some of my vents actually had a 2-3" gap between the ceiling and the air ducts. I fully taped & sealed every vent and reinstalled the vent covers. It made a big difference in the volume of air getting into the unit. There was a lot of air dumping into the ceiling. It still doesn't compare to having a dump vent, but it's a lot better.


Next move is to install heat film on the windows. I'm thinking that will give me another 2 degree pickup. Each thing I've done so far gives a few degrees of extra cooling, so it becomes a process.
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:55 AM   #34
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What is heat film?
I have foil insulation (foil bubble wrap) cut to fit all my windows mostly for winter use but have kept it there for summer too.. the drawbacks are that no natural light gets in the camper. That is unless I remove the insulation from Windows. If this Heat film is functional and transparent I would like to find it.
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Old 08-03-2016, 04:28 PM   #35
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Gila 36 in. x 180 in. Titanium Heat Control Window Film-HRT361 - The Home Depot


I have this on my truck, and it makes an unbelievable difference. Stats say it blocks 72% of solar heat, but it feels like a lot more in reality. This is in Southern Louisiana heat also.
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Old 08-03-2016, 06:45 PM   #36
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The metal around the interior of the Windows was getting very hot from the sun, and the Windows were radiating a lot of heat. As a test, we put the bunk mattresses against the wall in the bunk room covering the Windows. The bunk room typically was 2F hotter than the middle area. During the test day with the mattresses, the temp in the bunk room was 2F cooler than the middle... A 4 degree swing. I think after all of the Windows (especially the big ones in the middle area) are treated with heat film, it will make a big difference.
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:18 PM   #37
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Thanks for the data
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:41 PM   #38
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You can try Wayne Bigler but you will waiste ur time. I have 2013 376bhok with pages of issues including no caulking in shower, leak through roog after owning for one month, now has mold and still no resolution. Was told deal w dealership and still not fixed
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