Satellite through the outside cable input?

[FirstTracks]

With a summer full of camping plans in remote locations, including some long trips in our new (to us) 2016 Evo by Forest River T2050 (our first RV), I'm thinking about adding satellite to the trailer.

I'm looking at the King Tailgater. While roof-mountable, I'm intimidated about drilling into the roof and then running the coax to the island entertainment center. So, to keep it easy (and save an installation fee) I'm considering tripod-mounting the antenna outside the coach. The trailer has a cable TV coaxial input on the outside:



The wall plate for the coaxial outlet/antenna booster has only one coax connection, but it's marked for cable when turned off, and antenna when turned on -- so I'm guessing that there's a switching mechanism that selects between two coaxial sources back there somewhere.



Assuming that I'm correct, can I just connect the sat antenna to the cable TV input on the side of the trailer and just select cable/satellite as the source on my TV? Will that work? Does anyone know if this trailer was "satellite ready" with a coax cable pre-run to somewhere on the roof?

[bubbles]

There is no switching mechanism controlled by that panel switch. What it does is apply 12volts to the over the air antenna booster circuit (amplifier) within the antenna when the red light is on. For cable (sat) that light needs to be off. What you are trying to do is ok if there is no splitter between the external antenna connection and that panel connection. The tailgater doesn't like splitters in its path to the receiver.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by bubbles

There is no switching mechanism controlled by that panel switch. What it does is apply 12volts to the over the air antenna when the red light is on. For cable (sat) that light needs to be off. What you are trying to do is ok if there is no splitter between the external antenna connection and that panel connection. The tailgater doesn't like splitters in its path to the receiver.

Not true.
The panel switch does in fact switch from cable to on air antenna AND provides 12v to the amplifier on the roof antenna.

[FirstTracks]

Originally Posted by bubbles

There is no switching mechanism controlled by that panel switch. What it does is apply 12volts to the over the air antenna booster circuit (amplifier) within the antenna when the red light is on. For cable (sat) that light needs to be off. What you are trying to do is ok if there is no splitter between the external antenna connection and that panel connection. The tailgater doesn't like splitters in its path to the receiver.

Thanks for the clarification. I've got to figure that there's a splitter somewhere being used as a joiner, then, because there must be two different sources leading to that outlet -- one from the roof-mounted OTA antenna, and the other from the cable input on the side of the trailer? Would that be correct? Therefore connecting a tripod-mounted Tailgater to the cable TV input on the side of the trailer wouldn't work?

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by bubbles

The tailgater doesn't like splitters in its path to the receiver.

Not just the tailgater, no satellite setup will work with a standard splitter between the receiver and dish. If you need the splitter you must replace the standard one with a power pass splitter.

http://forums.solidsignal.com/conten...ssing-splitter

[FirstTracks]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Not true.
The panel switch does in fact switch from cable to on air antenna AND provides 12v to the amplifier on the roof antenna.

Quoting "Dumb and Dumber": "So you mean there's a chance?"

[5picker]

To answer the OP's question...
You will NOT be able to use the outside cable port for your particular set-up.
You will need to run a separate 'home-run' cable (no splitters/amplifiers) for the satellite.
Many come into the rig from underneath or through a window or through a cabinet.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by FirstTracks

Quoting "Dumb and Dumber": "So you mean there's a chance?"

No... while the booster plate is a switch, (and an amplifier) it will not work to pass satellite through it.

You could remove the booster plate and remove the outside cable wire coming to it and connect that to your satellite. It likely is a 'home-run' from the plate to the outside port.

[zuterbru]

I have the King unit for my DirecTV and I love it. I also bought the mounts and mounted it to the roof. I am pretty handy so not a problem for me to install it. It is nice to just get to camp and have one less thing to pull out and setup.

As far as using the cable on the coach, it wont work for Satellite. What I did was I bought a couple of exterior cable access points and mounted them to the side of my coach, running cables inside to hook up for the King satellite. This way I can use both tuners since the King has dual outputs. I also bought a cable real, the manual kind, and have 2 coax cables I taped together. Makes it a lot easier to run the cables from the King antenna to the coach. I keep the cables with me, so I can remove the satellite from the roof and use it remotely if I am camping in the trees.

[FirstTracks]

Originally Posted by 5picker

To answer the OP's question...
You will NOT be able to use the outside cable port for your particular set-up.
You will need to run a separate 'home-run' cable (no splitters/amplifiers) for the satellite.
Many come into the rig from underneath or through a window or through a cabinet.

<grumble> Through a window isn't really an option without tripping over a wire because the TV is mounted in an island in the middle of the trailer:

Originally Posted by 5picker

You could remove the booster plate and remove the outside cable wire coming to it and connect that to your satellite. It likely is a 'home-run' from the plate to the outside port.

Now that seems like an easy solution. If I were receiving satellite I can't see myself needing to use campground cable if I happen to stay in a park that offers it anyway.

[FirstTracks]

B and B, that's what 5picker suggested in post #8 -- seems like a simple solution.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by FirstTracks

<grumble> Through a window isn't really an option without tripping over a wire because the TV is mounted in an island in the middle of the trailer:





Now that seems like an easy solution. If I were receiving satellite I can't see myself needing to use campground cable if I happen to stay in a park that offers it anyway.

I see what you mean about the window.

I've certainly never used the campground cable when using my dish so I too believe that a viable solution!

Get a barrel connector (with jam nuts) and drill a hole in the booster plate.
Mount the barrel connector in the plate. Remove the cable coax from the booster switch and connect it to back of the newly installed connector.

When you want roof top antenna, connect the wire going to your TV to the original connector.
When you want cable or satellite, connect it to the new connector. (front side)

You might loose cable connectivity to a second TV (originally provided by the switch in the booster if a second TV coax is connected to the back side) but it would solve your problem at the main TV.

[FirstTracks]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Get a barrel connector (with jam nuts) and drill a hole in the booster plate.
Mount the barrel connector in the plate. Remove the cable coax from the booster switch and connect it to back of the newly installed connector.

Excellent.

Originally Posted by 5picker

When you want roof top antenna, connect the wire going to your TV to the original connector.
When you want cable or satellite, connect it to the new connector. (front side)

I shouldn't even need to do that. From the new barrel connector I'll simply run a length of coax to the DISH receiver, and connect that to the TV via HDMI. I'll leave the existing coax from the existing terminal in the booster wall plate running to the 75-ohm input on the TV. To switch from satellite to antenna for locals, I'll simply switch the TV input. I don't see any flaws in that logic, do you?

Originally Posted by 5picker

You might loose cable connectivity to a second TV (originally provided by the switch in the booster if a second TV coax is connected to the back side) but it would solve your problem at the main TV.

I don't think I'd lose that, either. Right now the space for a second TV in the bedroom (on the back of that island) is fed by a length of coax that runs off a splitter in the line coming from the current wall plate connection to the TV. That would give me antenna on the bedroom TV if/when I install one. I could then simply put an HDMI splitter to split the DISH receiver output and mirror it to both TVs. That way both TVs would have both antenna and satellite. Yeah, both TVs would display the same programming, but the trailer is small enough that I can't envision us watching separately anytime, anyway.

[Mr Havercamp]

Why not pull the booster plate and drill the hole in the lower half and install a barrel connector. Then mark it SAT . Put a power pass splitter on the incoming line, then a jumper cable from that splitter to the original cable tv in connector on the booster, and another jumper from that splitter to the new barrel connector. Now you're good either way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UW...lKL&ref=plSrch

[5picker]

Originally Posted by FirstTracks

Excellent.



I shouldn't even need to do that. From the new barrel connector I'll simply run a length of coax to the DISH receiver, and connect that to the TV via HDMI. I'll leave the existing coax from the existing terminal in the booster wall plate running to the 75-ohm input on the TV. To switch from satellite to antenna for locals, I'll simply switch the TV input. I don't see any flaws in that logic, do you?

Nope, no flaws that I see.

I don't think I'd lose that, either. Right now the space for a second TV in the bedroom (on the back of that island) is fed by a length of coax that runs off a splitter in the line coming from the current wall plate connection to the TV. That would give me antenna on the bedroom TV if/when I install one. I could then simply put an HDMI splitter to split the DISH receiver output and mirror it to both TVs. That way both TVs would have both antenna and satellite. Yeah, both TVs would display the same programming, but the trailer is small enough that I can't envision us watching separately anytime, anyway.

If that's the way it's hooked up then that should work too.
It's odd they would put in a splitter in the coax coming OUT of the wall plate when there is already a port on the BACK of the wall plate for a 2nd TV.
(see my photo in an earlier post)

Mr. Havercamp's suggestion will work too!

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Not true.
The panel switch does in fact switch from cable to on air antenna AND provides 12v to the amplifier on the roof antenna.

I'm pretty sure the panel circuitry is a splitter (junction) (over the air/park cable/feed for TV's) and the switch only applies 12 volts to the splitter for the over the air antenna to use for the antenna amplifier. Because there is 12 volts at the splitter (panel) and all coax connections the switch must be off for park cable to be viewed. Maybe I'm wrong. As said if it is a straight shot from park cable port to sat receiver it will work. I'm connected that way for my dish system.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by bubbles

I'm pretty sure the panel circuitry is a splitter (junction) (over the air/park cable/feed for TV's) and the switch only applies 12 volts to the splitter for the over the air antenna to use for the antenna amplifier. Because there is 12 volts at the splitter (panel) and all coax connections the switch must be off for park cable to be viewed. Maybe I'm wrong. As said if it is a straight shot from park cable port to sat receiver it will work. I'm connected that way for my dish system.

Well... I won't argue with you.
Here is what it says in the Winegard installation manual.
I highlighted the part about switching. It doesn't mention splitting.
But if you are meaning 'electronic switching' when you say splitting, then I agree with you.

DESCRIPTION
Wall plate/power supply to operate Winegard
RV antenna with outdoor receptacle for TV
set and cable input. Wall plate/power supply
provides +12VDC to antenna and +12 volt
receptacle as well as antenna signals to two
TV sets. Cable input from outdoor receptacle
connects to wall plate and may be switched so
either antenna or cable signals may be watched.
See applications.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Well... I won't argue with you.
Here is what it says in the Winegard installation manual.
I highlighted the part about switching. It doesn't mention splitting.
But if you are meaning 'electronic switching' when you say splitting, then I agree with you.

DESCRIPTION
Wall plate/power supply to operate Winegard
RV antenna with outdoor receptacle for TV
set and cable input. Wall plate/power supply
provides +12VDC to antenna and +12 volt
receptacle as well as antenna signals to two
TV sets. Cable input from outdoor receptacle
connects to wall plate and may be switched so
either antenna or cable signals may be watched.
See applications.

What you have posted is the info for an amplifier wall plate such as an RA7290 that is used for a non amplified antenna. However; the OP's wall plate is not an amplifier wall plate (TG7221) and that is because the antenna has a built in amplifier. You may still be correct in what you are saying. But? I'm done. Thanks for the insight.

[FirstTracks]

I'll of course try connecting it directly first, and if that fails I'll modify the connection. I found a refurbished Tailgater bundled with a Wally for $349.

[FirstTracks]

Originally Posted by bubbles

What you have posted is the info for an amplifier wall plate such as an RA7290 that is used for a non amplified antenna. However; the OP's wall plate is not an amplifier wall plate (TG7221) and that is because the antenna has a built in amplifier.

Actually, I pulled it and it's neither:



It's one of these:
Magnadyne WS-W12V | 12V Power Outlet / Antenna Distribution Wall Plate (White)

And the manual is here:
http://app.magnadyne.com/dashboard/a...ons_Manual.pdf

Of course the connection diagram in the manual is for the WS-W and not the WS-W12V and my connections aren't color coded like in the manual, so I'll have to make my best guess as to which is the antenna and which is the cable line -- I only know which one is TV2, because it's not connected. I'll email Magnadyne and see if they respond.

In the meantime I ordered the antenna and receiver, so we'll see how this goes.