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Old 05-17-2024, 06:24 AM   #1
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Solar Panel Voltage

This is on a 2023 Palomino Real Lite truck camper. The solar controller is a HP2440-B.

The indication is that the solar panel is in night mode, no voltage. However, it is daylight out.

Done so far:

Confirmed 0V at solar controller with a DVM
Disconnected solar panel at roof and voltage reads ~20V from panels.
Jumpered connectors going to solar controller and at controller, continuity was infinite.
Jumpered at solar controller and read infinite continuity at connectors.

This seems to indicate an open wire or possibly bad connector.

However, does anyone know if there is a hidden fuse in the wires coming from solar panels to the solar controller?

The connectors appear to be MC4 connectors.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-17-2024, 05:55 PM   #2
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They don't usually fuse the panel side of solar, should be one on the battery side near the battery. It would make even less sense to hide a fuse, but very few things suprise me after reading some of these threads.

Seems like you are one the right path, searching for an open circuit.
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Old 05-20-2024, 08:36 AM   #3
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I too am having the same issue on a 2021 Wildwood. Voltage going in at the roof but nothing coming out at the controller. I'm trying to get a wire diagram. Hoping someone didn't nail through a wire but I don't see continuity on either wire. Let us if you find something like a connection block or fuse. Thanks
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Old 05-20-2024, 09:10 AM   #4
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I would use a signal injector at this point to not only check continuity but to also see if both ends are the same wire. Strange arrangements can be found in RV wiring. I have an inexpensive injector that can be used for this and many other purposes like telephone lines. Mine is a Southwire wire tracing kit that has helped me several times.
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Old 05-20-2024, 10:52 AM   #5
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Did these two systems ever work?
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Old 05-20-2024, 11:48 AM   #6
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Mine is new. Because of the solar prep package I decided to add the panel and controller. I think the factory cable is bad.
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Old 05-20-2024, 11:52 AM   #7
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I used my signal injector and did get a tone but not continuity. I also pulled some extra wire from the roof mount and probed the wire to make sure connectors were good and they were. I'm trying to get the wiring diagram from the dealer to verify there is nothing else inline. Then I guess I'll have to run a new wire.
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Old 05-20-2024, 01:01 PM   #8
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My 2442BS had one of the crimp connectors inside the light fixture over the door that came apart. I ran new bigger wire from the rood all the way to the contoller.
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Old 05-20-2024, 02:14 PM   #9
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The dealer called back and confirmed the wire from the roof to the controller is one piece. No fuse, disconnect, or connection block. I guess it looks like I'm going to have to run a new cable.
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Old 05-20-2024, 04:13 PM   #10
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I wasn't very clear in my previous post. There was a short run of wire (less than a foot) from the solar panel connector on the roof into the light fixture hole. Then a run from there to the controller on the wall. For some unknown reason, they crimped the wires together in that hole. One of them had come apart, so I had nothing between the panels and the controller. I'm not calling your dealer a liar, but I had called Rockwood, and they said there was no break in the wire between the panels and the controller, when there was one.

I hope you find your issue, without too much more trouble.
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Old 05-20-2024, 04:19 PM   #11
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Could be a bad crimp, or someone crimped a lug onto the insulation instead of the bare wire. May not have to replace the whole wire, if you can deal with an end.

Needle probe to pierce the insulation and contact the wire?

If you do end up pulling the wire, depending on what kind of access you have, suggest attaching a pair of strong (nylon?) cords, giving a way to help pull the new wire in, and a backup for when the cord comes off the new wire.
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Old 05-20-2024, 04:25 PM   #12
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Make sure the controller is connected. Most times the batteries are provided by the dealer and as such the panel is not connected to the controller. Most controllers should have the battery connected before connecting the panel.
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Old 05-20-2024, 08:08 PM   #13
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Thanks, I'll pull the nearest light to check can't hurt.
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Old 05-20-2024, 08:12 PM   #14
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They order the panel and controller for me. I installed everything but had no voltage at the controller but did at the roof.
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Old 05-21-2024, 01:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pharphr View Post
I wasn't very clear in my previous post. There was a short run of wire (less than a foot) from the solar panel connector on the roof into the light fixture hole. Then a run from there to the controller on the wall. For some unknown reason, they crimped the wires together in that hole. One of them had come apart, so I had nothing between the panels and the controller. I'm not calling your dealer a liar, but I had called Rockwood, and they said there was no break in the wire between the panels and the controller, when there was one.

I hope you find your issue, without too much more trouble.
I checked several lights. I have small puck style led lights so only a big enough hole to stick your finger in. Every light had many wires running across the ceiling. Didn't see the bigger solar cable. I can see how easy it would be tho for them to cut a wire. I'm going to have to run a new one in a closer location to the panel.
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Old 05-21-2024, 07:29 PM   #16
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Problem Solved

All,

The problem turned out to be a wire had pulled out of a connector. This is, where in this camper, the wires coming from the roof are connected to the wires in the body of the camper. They are run in a fabric sleeve in the left rear corner.

I remade with a tried and true wire nut, taped up and then taped the other wires together for strain relief.
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Old 05-21-2024, 08:51 PM   #17
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I hate those bloody connectors. I replace them with wire nuts whenever I find them.
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Old 05-23-2024, 11:22 PM   #18
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My solar panels have a 30A blade fuse directly under the roof gland and before the controller. I wasn't aware it was there and burned it out when I plugged in a new panel in bright sunlight. Had to remove the gland to replace it.
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Old 05-24-2024, 05:24 AM   #19
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I have a 30a fuse but it is on the battery side. I was hoping for a fuse on the solar side is why I was trying to get the schematics. Even tried to use my inspection camera through a light hole but to much insulation in the way. Today I'm drilling a new hole running a new cable more directly over the controller and a shorter span.
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Old 05-24-2024, 06:31 AM   #20
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Well done, wbdvt! Nothing beats a wire nut and good old electrical tape for a good connection.
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