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Old 10-26-2020, 09:16 AM   #1
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2014 312bhx Converter issue?

Hello All,

I have a 50amp (2 air conditioned) 2014 312BHX. Over the weekend, I had a power issue. I have verified correct current (with a meter on all legs) coming from shore with no spikes or other issues. I couldn't run Air conditioning, and interior lights were dim. I could run the microwave, but switches such as the jacks or tank indicator switches wouldn't work. I have taken the cover off of the main panel in back and verified all breakers are drawing the correct power. I have removed all breakers and checked continuity, and all were good. My 12V battery was old and tested bad. I have replaced it and everything worked as intended - AC's etc. I checked all visible fuses and all were good from battery. however my new 12V battery is losing power, according to the meter button on the panel in the interior, it drew down. I plugged a 3amp battery charger on the battery and in a few hours it was back up to full charge. According to my paperwork I have a WF-9800 Converter. Could this be bad? or is there some other reset I can try? If I have to replace it, can someone recommend another unit with the same footprint, so I don't need to modify anything?
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Old 10-26-2020, 01:19 PM   #2
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You are going to have to measure voltages with a voltmeter to know (a multimeter and the knowledge to use it help trouble-shooting immensely).

Measure your DC voltage (at panel or at battery) without plugging in for a couple of hours. Should read 12.1 to 12.6V, depending on state of charge. 12.1V is approx 50%, 12.6V is fully charged. Then plug in - converter output, measured at battery or panel should be above 13.2V, could be as high as 14.4V.

Converter has 3 stages when working properly:
  • 13.1V - 13.2V - trickle charge. After 44 hours in normal mode, converter should go to trickle charge. This maintains a full charge.
  • 13.5 - 13.8V - normal mode, battery charging from unknown point (WFCO won't say) to fully charged. Charge current falls off as battery becomes more fully charged.
  • 14.1 - 14.4V - bulk mode, only used for a short time when battery is discharged to around 50%. Should hear cooling fan when converter is in bulk mode. Battery charging at constant current.
Fred W
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Old 10-26-2020, 01:43 PM   #3
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I would carefully measure the converter output at the converter output terminals. That would be where the large red and black wires extend back to the battery. Do this with the battery disconnected. If you are not getting the proper voltage, then your converter probably needs to be replaced.


I just replaced mine (WFCO 8955pec) this past week and it wasn't difficult.

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Old 10-26-2020, 04:16 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by PhilFromMaine View Post
I would carefully measure the converter output at the converter output terminals. That would be where the large red and black wires extend back to the battery. Do this with the battery disconnected. If you are not getting the proper voltage, then your converter probably needs to be replaced.
Doesn't matter where you measure - the voltage should be the same throughout the DC system. If OP doesn't get a correct voltage both when plugged into shore power and when not plugged into shore power, then further checks will be needed to isolate cause of battery not charging (or holding a charge).

It is likely from the symptoms that the battery is functioning properly, but is not being recharged by the converter when trailer is plugged in.

Fred W
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Old 10-26-2020, 05:03 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by pgandw View Post
Doesn't matter where you measure - the voltage should be the same throughout the DC system. If OP doesn't get a correct voltage both when plugged into shore power and when not plugged into shore power, then further checks will be needed to isolate cause of battery not charging (or holding a charge).

It is likely from the symptoms that the battery is functioning properly, but is not being recharged by the converter when trailer is plugged in.

Fred W
Fred,

The object is to determine if the converter is producing DC power. In order to do that you need to disconnect the battery bank and take your readings. It doesn't really matter where in the DC system you measure the voltage, but the obvious place is at the souce which is the converter.



If the converter is producing DC and the battery is presumably okay, than there is a fault in the wiring somewhere.
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Old 10-26-2020, 05:12 PM   #6
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Check reverse polarity fuses on the Converter. If you have a WFCO 9800 it's a deck mount and there are two fuses on the output end that blow if battery leads are reversed even for a half second. Also can blow if sudden current surge.

When you changed battery and 12 volt items worked, they were most likely running off the fresh battery and the converter was isolated behind a blown fuse or two.

Pull and check with Multimeter for continuity, don't just look at them.
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Old 10-26-2020, 05:33 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by PhilFromMaine View Post
Fred,

The object is to determine if the converter is producing DC power. In order to do that you need to disconnect the battery bank and take your readings. It doesn't really matter where in the DC system you measure the voltage, but the obvious place is at the souce which is the converter.
Don't need to disconnect the battery. If the converter is working DC voltage will be at least at float - 13.1V+. If converter is not working, you should read battery voltage - 12.6V or less. Where you read the voltage depends on accessibility. In my camper, battery is a lot easier to access than inside the converter. I installed a voltmeter by the door on the circuit that feeds the stereo.

Fred W
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