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Old 02-20-2013, 12:40 PM   #1
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Auto leveling quesion

Maybe a dumb question, but forgive please. We purchased our first coach-2013 Coachmen Mirada 34bh. The auto leveling works great. We were told to essentially ignore all the buttons except the auto-down and the retract-all. That works so far...but then what are the other buttons used for?? They guy warned us that most damage occurs from overextending the jacks... Can someone explain if, when, how I would use the other buttons to manually direct the jacks??
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:02 PM   #2
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Go to the manufacturer's website. Have the model number of your leveling system handy. Chances are you can find and download the manual if you poke around a bit. BTW - Your dealer should have given you a stack of manuals when you bought the motorhome. Look through those.
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:04 PM   #3
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You didn't mention the brand name of your leveling system, but most of them work the same way. I'll reference mine which is a Lippert System.

Aside from using the auto level and retract all, you may need to use the individual jacks for the following reason. If the system judges your rig is level BUT any of the wheels are off the ground, you have to reposition your rig, or insert boards/planks/stands under various wheels to compensate. The jacks are NOT designed to support the rig alone, they are to assist in stabilizing the rocking of the suspension front to back or side to side, and your tires should always be in contact with the ground.

Look for further explanation of the individual controls in your owners manual. Further, just imagine what trouble you would find youself in IF any of the jacks were to collapse because they were over extended. The entire jack assembly could cause significant damage to the undercarriage of your rig, let alone they'd have to be replaced, and then $$$$$$$
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:24 PM   #4
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Unfortunately the materials that I received are pretty much useless. The "owners manual" is a rather thin, generic guide that address very basic things but in no good detail (nothing about leveling).

Good suggestion to seek the manufacturer's web. And thanks much for letting me know that the wheels shouldn't be in the air. That HAS happened already (on my driveway) and it looked precarious. But...our salesman said not to worry about that either. Geese.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:32 AM   #5
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Anytime the salesman says "don't worry", or answers quickly, dismissing your concern or question, beware. In my experience salesman do this when they don't know something, or are trying to make the sale. I even like it when the salesman says "I don't know, but I will ask someone and get an answer." Just my 2 cents.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:29 AM   #6
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as far as over extending your jacks the hydraulic system has a relief valve to limit system pressure. as with anything the more you operate at max system pressure the greater chance of system failure. so you are not over extending jacks as they are designed to extend a specific distance you are simply coming up to that point and the pump is building max pressure witch is determined by the relief valve
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:40 AM   #7
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I have a 2013 XL 378 and love it. Live out of it full time and yes you got to love the book they give you, not worth a penny, tells you how to install everything but that's it. Can't rely on that book but you can rely on this great forum. Good luck!
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:15 PM   #8
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Indeed, this forum is a great source of information! So... If I use my auto leveler and it ends up lifting a wheel (or two) into the air.... Of course every situation is different, but I take it that one option would be to manually extend that wheel even higher, slide some boards under it, lower it onto the boards, and then use auto level again?
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:22 PM   #9
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yes but always run jacks in pairs manually front pair ,rear pair or side pair never opposite corners
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:30 PM   #10
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Interesting.. The (limited) manuals I was able to find for my levelling system (also a Mirada Class A) say:

1. never lift all 4 wheels off of the ground
2. do not use jacks to change a flat

No where does it say anything about ensuring that all wheels are on the ground.

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Old 02-21-2013, 05:59 PM   #11
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The more points of contact you have touching the ground the more solid your unit will feel under you. If you not moving for some time you may even consider adding blocks to make it solid.
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:42 AM   #12
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I'm a newbie to class a and leveling systems too. My wife and I just purchased a 2011 Coachmen Mirada 34BH, with an Atwood Levelegs system. Of course I looked through all the manuals the buyer gave me and nothing on this. I will go to Atwoods site to see what I can find. My question is my driveway has a 5 degree downward pitch. I'm guessing this system can not level that much?
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:14 AM   #13
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It can with enough wood under it.

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Old 01-23-2014, 04:11 PM   #14
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Just another 2cents worth, I had problems with our 6-point leveling system because of the slope of the driveway. It would get so far raising the front of the 5er then fail. I finally figured out the 5er was settling forward (toward the street) against the wheel chocks enough to put a sideways bind on the front legs, thus the friction would cause the electric motor to draw enough current the system thought it was at the end of travel. I started chocking the rear wheels, let the 5er settle against the chocks, then start the level process and the legs would travel anough for success.

Ford Idaho; I like your thoughts on those cross-blocks. I'm thinking if I did something like that out of 2x8's with a sheet of solid ply on top maybe with dowels to keep it solid would be a great way to raise the ground (so to speak) of the driveway so my leveling system wouldn't have to extend the front legs so far. Another project, eh?

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Old 01-23-2014, 04:59 PM   #15
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More lift with less wood = less weight packed.

I wish I could find the site where it said the less you extend your jacks or hydraulic levelers the less rocking and rolling you have.
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