Blow out damage and repair

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by fishingkid

Yesterday morning I picked up the trailer from storage (2021 Forest River Wolfpack 23pack15) on the way home I seen in the mirror the tread come off of 1 tire ripping out electrical wiring fender well insulation and plastic trim. This is under the slide out so when it wiped out the electrical it looks like it basically cut out 4 foot of wiring that went to the slide out plus the plastic s shaped piece wiring was attached to help it slide out. I had zip tied the remaining wiring plastic pieces out of the way switched out for spare tire ran it into town had a tire shop give me 4 brand new tires even though my trailers only 6 months old. Here is a couple pictures should this get repaired under warranty? I have sent in a email to Forest river however they were closed and it is eating me up seeing my new trailer like this. I am worried I cannot turn on the batteries or generator at all to use any electrical until this is repaired.

What is the "Reserve Load" for your heaviest loaded tire?


What is the Low pressure warning level on your TPMS?


How much below your "cold set pressure" is your Low pressure warning level?

[clanthon]

I installed a tpms on the rv & my toad. Several days ago, on our trip, the tpms alarm went off and I watched the tire pressure on one of the toad tires go from 40 to 0. The alarm gave me time to pull off before the tire shredded. If this happened to a tire on the coach, I would have had time to pull off before any damage happened to the coach.
The cost for the tpms, more than paid for itself.

[Jim S JR]

I am sorry this happened to you. FOREST RIVER puts these crap tires on.

I did get FOREST River to repair my trailer. I made it clear in my email to them that they know these tires are dangerous and put people's lives at risk.

Fortunately for me my damage was minimal.

It's too late for you unfortunately, but others, get rid of those crap Castle Rock.

I did go with Carlisle about a year ago, too early to tell how well they will hold up. I went with the 14ply.

Trailer handles 100% better.

When emailing them. Make it clear that there are many post on their forum about how dangerous these tires are and they are not showing any responsibility for the safety of their consumer. Intentionally installing tires that are known to be dangerous is b a huge liability to Forest River.

Good luck!

[Tablack]

Same exact thing happened to us on our wolf pack. Forest River covered all of it!

[TN Bigfoot]

I had a CastleRock ST blow out on return trip home. The trailer was purchased new just a bit under 1 yr ago. I very quickly replaced all with Goodyear Endurance but filed a claim with tire manufacturer to replace the blow out. I will say they were very prompt and timely for replacing the tire and giving a $30 allowance for labor in mounting the tire.

Sound like th OP has a good deal of residual damage caused by the blow out. Good luck with the insurance company.

[razzle408]

I am very sorry this happened to you. I hope you get some kind of financial help with the repairs.
It is really sad that all of us when we buy a brand new TTrailer first thing we have to do is spend more $$$$ and have a decent set of tires put on it so we can have security. It is absolutely pathetic!!!

[rving_est.2020]

After seeing this post I immediately ordered 5 Goodyear Endurance tires for my 2020 Rockwood Mini Lite. It only has 11K miles but I don’t trust Castle Rocks after seeing so many examples of failures.

Here’s something worth noting: none of my 5 wheels had wheel weights on them. Maybe it’s common for FR to cut corners and not balance tires but you’re asking for flat spots if you don’t and that could definitely contribute to tire failures. Hard to detect trailer tire/wheel vibrations when you’re in a TV but only bad things can happen if they’re not balanced.

Also, the TPM sensors are attached to the inside of the wheels with large worm screw-type band clamps (like hose clamps). Two of mine were loose.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by rving_est.2020

Here’s something worth noting: none of my 5 wheels had wheel weights on them. Maybe it’s common for FR to cut corners and not balance tires but you’re asking for flat spots if you don’t and that could definitely contribute to tire failures. Hard to detect trailer tire/wheel vibrations when you’re in a TV but only bad things can happen if they’re not balanced

There's debate about whether to balance trailer tires or not--even on these forums. One group contends that if you don't feel it while towing, it doesn't matter. The other side contends that all that vibration and shaking is not good for the trailer components and construction and insists on balancing. I tend to go with the second group.

Not really flat spots ("Out-of-round"), but vibration simply because one side of the tire weighs more than the other. Out-of-round is a different condition,

If you were to mount an unbalanced tire on a free-spinning hub and spin it 100 times, it would stop at the same every time, heavy side down. But if you held a gauge near the tread while spinning, the gap would be constant.

If you were to mount an out-of-round tire on a free-spinning hub and spin it 100 times, it would stop in different places each time. But if you held a gauge near the tread, the gap would open and close with each revolution.

I had out-of-round tires on a 1970 Opel GT. They (and the one or two I had replaced under warranty) had rough ride from the first day. They were German Goodyear G800s and every one was bad. Balancing did nothing to improve the situations.

The tire people offered to turn them on a tire lathe to make them round. I could see that doing so would create a real imbalance and declined. I stubbornly drove on them until they were worn.

In 1972 I looked at new ones and the G800s still had the problem. I replaced them with General tires and the car was SO much nicer to drive.

[KellyG]

A month after we bought our new 5th wheel, we replaced all four Castle Rock "China bombs" with Goodyear Endurance. Less than a year later, one of the Endurance went at New Mexico freeway speeds--well under the speed rating. Over $5K in damage. Tire was replaced under warranty, and insurance covering over half the cost, but 5er has been in shop for over ten weeks awaiting parts (stabilizer bracket) from Forrest River. Two cancelled trips to date, with long one coming up in three weeks.

OTOH, our first TT Castle Rock tires--when we wer more ignorant--were driven at (New Mexico) freeway speeds for three years, with nary a problem. Who'd'a thunk it?

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by KellyG

A month after we bought our new 5th wheel, we replaced all four Castle Rock "China bombs" with Goodyear Endurance. Less than a year later, one of the Endurance went at New Mexico freeway speeds--well under the speed rating. Over $5K in damage. Tire was replaced under warranty, and insurance covering over half the cost, but 5er has been in shop for over ten weeks awaiting parts (stabilizer bracket) from Forrest River. Two cancelled trips to date, with long one coming up in three weeks.

OTOH, our first TT Castle Rock tires--when we wer more ignorant--were driven at (New Mexico) freeway speeds for three years, with nary a problem. Who'd'a thunk it?

Im curious what pressure did you maintain in the Goodyear tires and what is the pressure rating on the sidewall of those tires?

[KellyG]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Im curious what pressure did you maintain in the Goodyear tires and what is the pressure rating on the sidewall of those tires?

I don't remember the numbers--5er is *still* in the shop since Januear due to lack of parts from Indiana--but before *every* trip, we took the 5er to Discount Tires (where we'd bought the Endurance tires) and had them do a pressure check and inspection. (They offer it as a free service, and we avail of it the opportunity.) For that reason, at least at the start of the trip (one week), I'm fairly sure that the tires were--and had been--well in spec.



Our TPMS was having problems--not reading on the tire that blew--so I can't be more specific. OTOH, our TPMS was working with the China Bombs, and we were able to correct a few problems with them. (I think the TPMS sensors need new batteries, but haven't been able to access them with the 5er in the shop, and the manufacturer website is of no use.)

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by KellyG

I don't remember the numbers--5er is *still* in the shop since Januear due to lack of parts from Indiana--but before *every* trip, we took the 5er to Discount Tires (where we'd bought the Endurance tires) and had them do a pressure check and inspection. (They offer it as a free service, and we avail of it the opportunity.) For that reason, at least at the start of the trip (one week), I'm fairly sure that the tires were--and had been--well in spec.



Our TPMS was having problems--not reading on the tire that blew--so I can't be more specific. OTOH, our TPMS was working with the China Bombs, and we were able to correct a few problems with them. (I think the TPMS sensors need new batteries, but haven't been able to access them with the 5er in the shop, and the manufacturer website is of no use.)

The reason I ask is because the ST tires on campers NEED to be run at full PSI capacity in order to bear the full weight rating of the tires. Some people believe, incorrectly, that they can help their tires by babying them and filling them to a lower pressure.

These tires actually can bear more weight at higher pressures up to their maximum pressure rating.. I believe your tire shop knows this so this is not the cause of yo0ur issue with they Goodyear Endurance.

I had a tire blow and my solution was to change the tires out to G rated tires which have an even higher weight and speed rating. I dont drive any faster when pulling it, 62 MPH, but the additional weight rating provides a great deal of "Peace of Mind", and we have never had any tire problems since.

It sounds as if you did everything right and were just the victim of some horrible luck! I hope you get it back in time for that next upcoming trip.

[KellyG]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

The reason I ask is because the ST tires on campers NEED to be run at full PSI capacity in order to bear the full weight rating of the tires. Some people believe, incorrectly, that they can help their tires by babying them and filling them to a lower pressure.

These tires actually can bear more weight at higher pressures up to their maximum pressure rating.. I believe your tire shop knows this so this is not the cause of yo0ur issue with they Goodyear Endurance.

I had a tire blow and my solution was to change the tires out to G rated tires which have an even higher weight and speed rating. I dont drive any faster when pulling it, 62 MPH, but the additional weight rating provides a great deal of "Peace of Mind", and we have never had any tire problems since.

It sounds as if you did everything right and were just the victim of some horrible luck! I hope you get it back in time for that next upcoming trip.

Thanks for your comments on tire pressure. I've always tried to keep 5er tires at full pressure at least (in hot desert, easy for them to be 10+ psig high, but they cool down after stopping for the night). It is nice to know that lower pressure in tires reduces load capacity--I presume due to material fatigue. My guess is that we had a small leak (or quick one) which deflated the tire that blew.


Thanks again!

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by KellyG

Thanks for your comments on tire pressure. I've always tried to keep 5er tires at full pressure at least (in hot desert, easy for them to be 10+ psig high, but they cool down after stopping for the night). It is nice to know that lower pressure in tires reduces load capacity--I presume due to material fatigue. My guess is that we had a small leak (or quick one) which deflated the tire that blew.


Thanks again!

The tire pressures are checked and set when the tires are cold first thing in the morning. You were doing it right. Sometimes "these things happen"

The increase in tire pressure from driving or even just from sitting in the sunny side is normal. The sunny side tires will be higher even when driving. As you observed, in the evenings the pressures were back down to the mornings settings.

[dedobias]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

The reason I ask is because the ST tires on campers NEED to be run at full PSI capacity in order to bear the full weight rating of the tires. Some people believe, incorrectly, that they can help their tires by babying them and filling them to a lower pressure.

These tires actually can bear more weight at higher pressures up to their maximum pressure rating.. I believe your tire shop knows this so this is not the cause of yo0ur issue with they Goodyear Endurance.

I had a tire blow and my solution was to change the tires out to G rated tires which have an even higher weight and speed rating. I dont drive any faster when pulling it, 62 MPH, but the additional weight rating provides a great deal of "Peace of Mind", and we have never had any tire problems since.

It sounds as if you did everything right and were just the victim of some horrible luck! I hope you get it back in time for that next upcoming trip.

Your statement that tires can carry more at the maximum pressure rating is true. HOWEVER, changing tires to a higher load rating does NOT change the maximum load capacity of the trailer which is shown on the trailer information sticker and on the trailer's tire pressure sticker along with the original tire size. The pressure shown on the trailer pressure sticker is based on size and maximum load, not the load rating of the tire itself. When you go up a size in the tire, the pressure actually goes down for the same weight load. Most people do not change size, just load rating and/or speed rating.

The suspension, frame, axles and a bunch of other factors determine to maximum load for the trailer, not the tires.

Carlisle is the ONLY manufacturer I know of that states maximum sidewall only or you will void warranty and that is after displaying a load pressure chart and stating over pressure will cause abnormal center only wear. That sounds like a chicken lawyer's excuse for warranty. I know of NO other manufacturer that does this.

Other manufacturers state you pick pressure based on load and published pressure/load charts for their tires based on size.

I specifically contacted Goodyear via email and asked the question "there are a lot of claims that tires should ONLY be run at max. cold inflation pressure. Goodyear publishes a load/pressure chart. If I use the chart and the maximum weight of my trailer on the chart, do I use that pressure or maximum cold, assuming they are not the same. " Goodyear responded with the chart image.

Again, I have to emphasize that the max cold and the pressure/load chart may be same for certain sizes. However, if they are different and load pressure chart shows a lower pressure, you should use the load/pressure chart or you are OVERINFLATING.

Overinflating has been proven by multiple tire manufacturers to cause:
1. excessive wear in the center of the tire tread - tire is bulged in the center
2. Reduced braking ability because there is less tread contact patch.
3. Higher risk of damage from a curb strike or pothole - overinflated balloon.
4. Very hard ride - the trailer suspension and trailer are beat by a rock hard riding tire.
5. Excessive bearing wear - hammering by a hard tire wears the bearings more.
6. Increased risk of hydroplaning - reduce contact tread patch.

Stating a trailer tires sidewall is the reason for overinflating is NOT supported by any manufacturer.

A minor amount of extra inflation is not a problem, but high amounts are.

If you notice the tire sticker on the door jamb your truck, it too is based on the maximum load of the truck and the tire load/pressure chart for the size used. Run your truck tires higher than that pressure by any significant amount and you will see the listed items above for over inflation occur.

So, look at the maximum load for your trailer. If you are going above that, you are in unsafe territory. Divide by the number of tires for load on each tire. If you want, be a little generous and go up %5. Use the load pressure chart. The pressure you will get will closely match the trailers sticker for recommended pressure. If the max. cold pressure matches the chart, that is OK, but don't assume it does unless you have NO other information. Go ahead an look up one size larger - the pressure will go down.

Use the load pressure chart, thousands of engineers are not wrong, except Castlerock that can't design a tire or maintain quality control to consistently not fail.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by dedobias

Your statement that tires can carry more at the maximum pressure rating is true. HOWEVER, changing tires to a higher load rating does NOT change the maximum load capacity of the trailer which is shown on the trailer information sticker and on the trailer's tire pressure sticker along with the original tire size. The pressure shown on the trailer pressure sticker is based on size and maximum load, not the load rating of the tire itself. When you go up a size in the tire, the pressure actually goes down for the same weight load. Most people do not change size, just load rating and/or speed rating.

The suspension, frame, axles and a bunch of other factors determine to maximum load for the trailer, not the tires.

Carlisle is the ONLY manufacturer I know of that states maximum sidewall only or you will void warranty and that is after displaying a load pressure chart and stating over pressure will cause abnormal center only wear. That sounds like a chicken lawyer's excuse for warranty. I know of NO other manufacturer that does this.

Other manufacturers state you pick pressure based on load and published pressure/load charts for their tires based on size.

I specifically contacted Goodyear via email and asked the question "there are a lot of claims that tires should ONLY be run at max. cold inflation pressure. Goodyear publishes a load/pressure chart. If I use the chart and the maximum weight of my trailer on the chart, do I use that pressure or maximum cold, assuming they are not the same. " Goodyear responded with the chart image.

Again, I have to emphasize that the max cold and the pressure/load chart may be same for certain sizes. However, if they are different and load pressure chart shows a lower pressure, you should use the load/pressure chart or you are OVERINFLATING.

Overinflating has been proven by multiple tire manufacturers to cause:
1. excessive wear in the center of the tire tread - tire is bulged in the center
2. Reduced braking ability because there is less tread contact patch.
3. Higher risk of damage from a curb strike or pothole - overinflated balloon.
4. Very hard ride - the trailer suspension and trailer are beat by a rock hard riding tire.
5. Excessive bearing wear - hammering by a hard tire wears the bearings more.
6. Increased risk of hydroplaning - reduce contact tread patch.

Stating a trailer tires sidewall is the reason for overinflating is NOT supported by any manufacturer.

A minor amount of extra inflation is not a problem, but high amounts are.

If you notice the tire sticker on the door jamb your truck, it too is based on the maximum load of the truck and the tire load/pressure chart for the size used. Run your truck tires higher than that pressure by any significant amount and you will see the listed items above for over inflation occur.

So, look at the maximum load for your trailer. If you are going above that, you are in unsafe territory. Divide by the number of tires for load on each tire. If you want, be a little generous and go up %5. Use the load pressure chart. The pressure you will get will closely match the trailers sticker for recommended pressure. If the max. cold pressure matches the chart, that is OK, but don't assume it does unless you have NO other information. Go ahead an look up one size larger - the pressure will go down.

Use the load pressure chart, thousands of engineers are not wrong, except Castlerock that can't design a tire or maintain quality control to consistently not fail.

WHEW..............where did all that come from? You are so far out in left field as to be totally and completely out of the ball park, buddy!

I have no desire to get into a pissing match about this issue, however, where on earth did you get the idea that I suggested larger tires would allow overloading of the campers frame or any other system?

I increased the load rating of my tires to give me a measure of cushion, because as delivered by Forest River the load bearing capability of each individual tire was close to the actual load they were each subjected to from the factory.

A bit of over capacity in load carrying capacity is never a bad thing in my humble opinion. Further affiant sayeth naught!

[dedobias]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

WHEW..............where did all that come from? You are so far out in left field as to be totally and completely out of the ball park, buddy!

I have no desire to get into a pissing match about this issue, however, where on earth did you get the idea that I suggested larger tires would allow overloading of the campers frame or any other system?

I increased the load rating of my tires to give me a measure of cushion, because as delivered by Forest River the load bearing capability of each individual tire was close to the actual load they were each subjected to from the factory.

A bit of over capacity in load carrying capacity is never a bad thing in my humble opinion. Further affiant sayeth naught!

I nwver said woukd or coukd overload. I merely stated increasing the tires capacity did not mean the trailer could take it. I understand you intent to increase for cushion.
What I was pointing out is that don't need to overinflate because that capacity is not needed in the inflation.

[Tireman9]

1. Get pictures of the tires DOT serial including the date portion.
2. File a complaint for each failed tire with NHTSA


If RV is a 202 the tires should be no older than 2019.

[Bob K4TAX]

Originally Posted by dedobias

I nwver said woukd or coukd overload. I merely stated increasing the tires capacity did not mean the trailer could take it. I understand you intent to increase for cushion.
What I was pointing out is that don't need to overinflate because that capacity is not needed in the inflation.

Tires or no tires, the maximum weight rating of the trailer is defined by the axles under the trailer. Upgrading to higher load rated tires does NOT change the maximum gross weight of the trailer.

In all cases, travel trailers should have the tires balanced and they should be cold inflated to the MAX PSI stated on the sidewall.

If you have had to "lock-up" the brakes and slide the tires, then at the next and earliest convenience, the tires MUST be checked for flat spots and to assure they are actually round.

[dedobias]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

Tires or no tires, the maximum weight rating of the trailer is defined by the axles under the trailer. Upgrading to higher load rated tires does NOT change the maximum gross weight of the trailer.

In all cases, travel trailers should have the tires balanced and they should be cold inflated to the MAX PSI stated on the sidewall.

If you have had to "lock-up" the brakes and slide the tires, then at the next and earliest convenience, the tires MUST be checked for flat spots and to assure they are actually round.

And when you do slam on the brakes, because of overinflating you will be skidding on about 30% of the tread patch and probably won't stop in time. That is the reduced braking result of overinflating..