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Old 08-17-2018, 01:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
Before you replace parts, try this.


Shut off city water
Open faucet and run until no water comes out
close faucet.
Assuming there is some water in the FW tank turn on the pump.
Let water run for about a minute

Shut off faucet.
Once pump stops running, turn it off.
Reconnect city water,

This will reset the back flow valve in the water pump.
I will be doing this when i get setup this evening.

I have never used the fw tank, we dont do any off the grid camping.
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:05 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
Don't understand how that would or could happen.

I don't think it really matters what side of the pump it is on, but I figured that it would be better to have the back flow preventer (ie.- check valve) in front of the pump.

Makes more sense this way to me...
Actually, in industry, check valves are normally put on the pump discharge. If you tear down the pump and examine it, you will see that the check valve is on the pump discharge cavity. The placement on the discharge allows the pump to be at low/zero pressure when the pump is not running, making it easier to start. Also, the strainer is not designed for pressure. Putting the check valve before the strainer before will result in the strainer being at the city water pressure.

Also, as it takes some pressure to open a check valve (the cracking pressure) putting the check valve on the pump inlet could make priming difficult or impossible.

Rick
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:35 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Mikepotts View Post
I will be doing this when i get setup this evening.

I have never used the fw tank, we dont do any off the grid camping.
You may want to get in the habit of traveling with water in your tank.

Three times in the last six months while I was full-timing in my RV, due to people either hitting a water spicket with their RV or forgetting to unhook their hose before they took off, I was very glad I had water in my fresh tank to take a shower and make coffee with as the repairs could take hours or even a full day.

While everyone else in the RV park was outside scratching their rear ends wondering when the water was going to come back on...

I made my coffee and took my shower...
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:36 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by RJHuser View Post
Actually, in industry, check valves are normally put on the pump discharge. If you tear down the pump and examine it, you will see that the check valve is on the pump discharge cavity. The placement on the discharge allows the pump to be at low/zero pressure when the pump is not running, making it easier to start. Also, the strainer is not designed for pressure. Putting the check valve before the strainer before will result in the strainer being at the city water pressure.

Also, as it takes some pressure to open a check valve (the cracking pressure) putting the check valve on the pump inlet could make priming difficult or impossible.

Rick
Not sure I buy all of that...but I guess that could be possible.

As for city water pressure...I always have a regulator on my system.

It has been working since April...and I haven't had to prime the pump once since I installed it before the pump.

Pulling the RV out of storage (been there for a month) in a week or so for a trip up to Sedona, AZ...

So we'll see how it goes!

Everything is drained so we'll see how it all works out!
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:14 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
Not sure I buy all of that...but I guess that could be possible.
Not want to fight about, just giving 40 years experience in spec’ing, buying, installing and operating pumps from sub 1 gallon to several 10’s thousand gallon.

Rick
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Old 08-18-2018, 01:10 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
Not sure I buy all of that...but I guess that could be possible.

As for city water pressure...I always have a regulator on my system.

It has been working since April...and I haven't had to prime the pump once since I installed it before the pump.

Pulling the RV out of storage (been there for a month) in a week or so for a trip up to Sedona, AZ...

So we'll see how it goes!

Everything is drained so we'll see how it all works out!
Hey John,
I must agree with Rick. I worked as a water plant operator and the check valves always went on the pressure side of the pump. His reasoning is correct. Also by having pressure on the strainer you increase the likelihood that a leak can flood your RV when the seal in the strainer gives way.
Moose

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Old 08-18-2018, 08:17 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mikepotts View Post
Awesome. Thanks for the post. Welcome to the forum!
Turning of city water and running pump for a few minutes will usually reseat the check value.
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Old 08-18-2018, 09:17 AM   #28
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Most of these pump issues can usually be avoided just by using the pump occasionally and keeping some water running thru them. I always travel with some water in mine and use it. I have never had a check valve leak. Also you can buy rebuild kits for these pumps for less than $20 and they are not hard to rebuild usually six screws to remove replace the rubber parts and reassemble easypeze at least for me.
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Old 08-19-2018, 11:00 AM   #29
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Alternate Theory

C'mon all you right-brained guys - don't overlook the possibility that Mikepotts has the holy grail of RVs: it magically produces water. Would be great for dry camping in the Southwest... My next wish is for deep magic holding tanks that never get full!
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Old 08-19-2018, 12:51 PM   #30
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C'mon all you right-brained guys - don't overlook the possibility that Mikepotts has the holy grail of RVs: it magically produces water. Would be great for dry camping in the Southwest... My next wish is for deep magic holding tanks that never get full!
LOL! Exactly! Who needs a lifestraw... ive got my camper!

On a serious note, i have learned alot from the replies in this thread guys. I did run the pump on this trip for a minute or two and the valve seemed to have reset because i made no water.

Changes to make...
1. In the future i will be traveling with some water in the fw tank.
2. I will be adding an external check valve on the discharge side of the pump, as this makes the most sense to me.
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Old 08-24-2018, 06:56 AM   #31
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I have tried this a number of times

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
Before you replace parts, try this.


Shut off city water
Open faucet and run until no water comes out
close faucet.
Assuming there is some water in the FW tank turn on the pump.
Let water run for about a minute

Shut off faucet.
Once pump stops running, turn it off.
Reconnect city water,

This will reset the back flow valve in the water pump.
This hasn't worked. I have a 2017 Wildwood TT27RKSS we have had it since July of 2016, when we went out early July of this year the problem started. Woke up in the morning with water dripping from the freshwater fill location. Did some research, tried the flushing technique and ended up running off the freshwater tank for a week, alternately between it and park water.

I forgot to get the pump information before we, since we have own a share in the location that we camp out and it happens to be 4 hours away. I think i may do as someone else did and contact Forest River since I know the Pumps usually carry a 2 year warranty and see if they'll help me out. But, I'll be looking into adding an external check valve like others have shown since we mainly use park water.
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Old 08-24-2018, 07:14 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by bgoldsby View Post
This hasn't worked. I have a 2017 Wildwood TT27RKSS we have had it since July of 2016, when we went out early July of this year the problem started. Woke up in the morning with water dripping from the freshwater fill location. Did some research, tried the flushing technique and ended up running off the freshwater tank for a week, alternately between it and park water.

I forgot to get the pump information before we, since we have own a share in the location that we camp out and it happens to be 4 hours away. I think i may do as someone else did and contact Forest River since I know the Pumps usually carry a 2 year warranty and see if they'll help me out. But, I'll be looking into adding an external check valve like others have shown since we mainly use park water.
sorry it didnt work for you. if forest river can help, i would just add the inline check valve. seems to be the simplest fix.
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Old 08-24-2018, 07:40 AM   #33
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dirty water filter

I had this same problem. Fortunately before I fiddled with the check valve, it became apparent that my external water filter was clogged (used up) from the well water I was connected to. The resulting low pressure was not enough to seal the check valve and I was "making water". (I was using a water pressure regulator as well.) Replaced the filter, problem solved. (I got my money's worth out of that filter...)
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Old 08-24-2018, 05:18 PM   #34
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I had this problem also on my 2017 Coachman motorhome, I installed a adjustable water pressure gauge on the city water coming in the coach and if I keep it 40 psi or lower it doesn't back fill my fresh water tank, it fixed my problem.
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Old 08-24-2018, 07:08 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Rick Davidson View Post
I had this problem also on my 2017 Coachman motorhome, I installed a adjustable water pressure gauge on the city water coming in the coach and if I keep it 40 psi or lower it doesn't back fill my fresh water tank, it fixed my problem.
I'm guessing your problem is still there...but masked by the pressure regulator.

It takes $15 bucks and 15 minutes to put a check valve on...

Might be worth the hassle as it will probably rear it's head again someday when it isn't convenient.
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:08 PM   #36
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Thanks John you are right a value would have solved the problem and been a lot cheaper, thanks for the info!
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