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08-17-2018, 10:42 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
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Camper is MAKING water!
How is this possible? Ive never added water to the fresh tank (2yrs). I accidentally left the drain open. On last trip while fueling up i noticed water draining from the tank.... does anything besides the fresh inlet put water in this tank? This drain has been open evidently since i bought it so i know the tank was empty.
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08-17-2018, 10:50 AM
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#2
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikepotts
How is this possible? Ive never added water to the fresh tank (2yrs). I accidentally left the drain open. On last trip while fueling up i noticed water draining from the tank.... does anything besides the fresh inlet put water in this tank? This drain has been open evidently since i bought it so i know the tank was empty.
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Sounds like the check valve in your water pump has gone bad and city water is back flowing into your fresh water tank.
And the water is probably coming out of the fresh tank overflow outlets.
Much easier (and less expensive) to just install a new check valve in front of the water pump than it is to replace the whole pump.
Just had to do mine a couple of months back...
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08-17-2018, 10:53 AM
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#3
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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By the by...
If you need to camp before you get this fixed, just use the fresh water tank and water pump and do not hook up to city water.
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08-17-2018, 11:07 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
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Thank you sir! Very good suggestion! We are leaving today for a weekend trip to Gatlinburg. I will diagnose further.
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08-17-2018, 11:40 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
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Okay. Got a closer look. I can see where my city water connection ties into the cold main and where the pump connects to the cold main. Im guessing from your pic that the factory check valve is screwed right onto the pump is the one you pictured. This seems like a simple fix now that you pointed itnout. Thanks again.
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08-17-2018, 12:32 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 4
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Happened to me a few months after my warranty ended. I called Forest River and they acknowledged that they had received a lot of calls about the check valve problem and they offered to send me a new water pump. I kept my old pump and replaced the check valve so I now have a spare in case it happens again.
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08-17-2018, 12:36 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DART
Happened to me a few months after my warranty ended. I called Forest River and they acknowledged that they had received a lot of calls about the check valve problem and they offered to send me a new water pump. I kept my old pump and replaced the check valve so I now have a spare in case it happens again.
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Awesome. Thanks for the post. Welcome to the forum!
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08-17-2018, 12:38 PM
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#8
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IndyDave
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Time RV
Posts: 29
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I had that happen while visiting Bryce Canyon and again another place. It happened after I used the pump the previous day. There is a check valve in the pump to prevet feedback into the tank from the city hookup. Mine would get stuck once in a while. I cycled it a couple times and then watched the tank indicator lights to see if it was filling again. Cycling the pump seemed to clear the problem both times.
__________________
IndyDave
2013 Palomino Columbus RS320
2012 Dodge RAM 2500 Diesel
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08-17-2018, 12:43 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Lodi CA
Posts: 1,211
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I would put the check on the outlet side of the pump that is the side without the filter screen. would keep the pump from being pressurized and possibly damaged if you get high water pressure from Camp ground.
__________________
2001 Ford F-350 DRW 7.3
2011 25 RL Wildcat
former fiver 1976 Fourwinds had for 35 years
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08-17-2018, 01:00 PM
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#10
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onetonford
I would put the check on the outlet side of the pump that is the side without the filter screen. would keep the pump from being pressurized and possibly damaged if you get high water pressure from Camp ground.
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Don't understand how that would or could happen.
I don't think it really matters what side of the pump it is on, but I figured that it would be better to have the back flow preventer (ie.- check valve) in front of the pump.
Makes more sense this way to me...
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08-17-2018, 01:03 PM
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#11
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikepotts
Okay. Got a closer look. I can see where my city water connection ties into the cold main and where the pump connects to the cold main. I'm guessing from your pic that the factory check valve is screwed right onto the pump is the one you pictured. This seems like a simple fix now that you pointed out. Thanks again.
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There is no factory check valve...it is built-in to the water pump.
I replaced not only the check valve, but that screen filter thing as well.
Cleaned out the old screen (was full of plastic shards from the factory) and kept it as a spare.
Put the check valve right at the pump and the screen inline in front of the check valve.
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08-17-2018, 01:04 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: NJ
Posts: 606
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I had the same thing happen with my new non FR trailer.I learned The check valve in some pumps can't be replaced or serviced. A new pump solved the problem. This conversation reminded me that I haven't received reimbursement yet for the new pump. I gotta call my dealer.
__________________
DrLewie
Flemington, NJ
Former: 2007 Cardinal 30W LE
Now:2018 Arctic Fox 27-5L
2008 Ford F-250 Long Bed Diesel
Total of 30 Months on the Road Since 2008
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08-17-2018, 01:08 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djhender
I had that happen while visiting Bryce Canyon and again another place. It happened after I used the pump the previous day. There is a check valve in the pump to prevet feedback into the tank from the city hookup. Mine would get stuck once in a while. I cycled it a couple times and then watched the tank indicator lights to see if it was filling again. Cycling the pump seemed to clear the problem both times.
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Thanks. This too is good to know.
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08-17-2018, 01:11 PM
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#14
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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A new water pump...$80 - $200...depending on whether you want to go basic or upgrade to better pump, plus a couple of hours to swap out.
Check valve...under $15 dollars and maybe 10 minutes of your time...PRICELESS!
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08-17-2018, 01:14 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 38
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If you have not used your water tank in 2 years you may think about sterilizing your tank before use
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08-17-2018, 01:17 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Lodi CA
Posts: 1,211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnD10
Don't understand how that would or could happen.
I don't think it really matters what side of the pump it is on, but I figured that it would be better to have the back flow preventer (ie.- check valve) in front of the pump.
Makes more sense this way to me...
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I personally wouldn't I've had the rubber diaphragm on the pressure switch leak also that also goes for the rest of the pump. If you use just city water it may leak some time before you notice it. Also one less restriction on the suction side of the pump is better as the pump pushes better than it sucks.
__________________
2001 Ford F-350 DRW 7.3
2011 25 RL Wildcat
former fiver 1976 Fourwinds had for 35 years
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08-17-2018, 01:35 PM
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#17
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onetonford
I personally wouldn't I've had the rubber diaphragm on the pressure switch leak also that also goes for the rest of the pump. If you use just city water it may leak some time before you notice it. Also one less restriction on the suction side of the pump is better as the pump pushes better than it sucks.
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I've found that since I put the check valve in front of the water pump I get less air bubbles in the line when the fresh water tank gets low and the pump is sucking off of the bottom.
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08-17-2018, 01:39 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 4
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On my pump the check valve is an internal part that installs within the water pump housing so it only goes in one way (as far as I can tell)
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08-17-2018, 01:44 PM
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#19
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,301
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Before you replace parts, try this.
Shut off city water
Open faucet and run until no water comes out
close faucet.
Assuming there is some water in the FW tank turn on the pump.
Let water run for about a minute
Shut off faucet.
Once pump stops running, turn it off.
Reconnect city water,
This will reset the back flow valve in the water pump.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
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08-17-2018, 01:48 PM
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#20
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DART
On my pump the check valve is an internal part that installs within the water pump housing so it only goes in one way (as far as I can tell)
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That is what the check valve does...keeps the water flowing in the direction that it is supposed to run.
Not backward...where it will flow through the pump and back in to the fresh water tank.
Most RV water pumps today DO have the check valve inside of the pump, which is why many of us choose to put an outside-of-the-pump check valve in so we don't have to keep changing out water pumps.
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