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02-28-2010, 11:04 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bonney Lake, WA
Posts: 23
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Can I run my A/C on 110 household outlet?
Wondering if I can run my trailer A/C off of a 110v household outlet. Do I risk tripping the breaker all the time? The people I purchased the trailer from told me that you should never run the A/C when it's hooked up to a standard outlet. I ran it for a little while last summer to make sure it worked and I didn't have any trouble. Thanks!
2006 Salem 26BH
2004 GMC Yukon XL Denali
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02-28-2010, 11:09 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 39
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I've done it. If you have a 13,500 btu you should be ok. My 15,000 runs off of it. Don't run anything else such as microwave etc.
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2010 Sandpiper 300BH
2009 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab Short Box Duramax
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02-28-2010, 11:13 PM
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#3
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Cyber Phrenologist
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Southern Crescent
Posts: 1,806
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The answer is maybe. What will kill the air conditioner is low voltage. CW sells a voltage meter that plugs into an AC outlet in the camper. As long as the needle is in the green then you can run the AC fine.
Another factor is extension cord length. A household outlet with 100 ft of skinny extension cord is asking for air conditioning failure because of voltage drop in the cord.
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KU4OJ
2008 (or is it 2009?) Rockwood 8280SS - 2022 F-250 7.3L
Lot's of mostly Kenwood radios
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03-01-2010, 12:44 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Prince Edward Island, Canada
Posts: 77
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Correct...voltage drop is proportional to cord length...the longer the cord, the greater the drop. The other factor is wire gauge...many cheap extension cords are #18 or #16 wire (the smaller the number, the larger the wire...go figure!)...but if you use a #14 (good) or a #12 (better) the voltage drop will be significantly less. Larger wire will (somewhat) reduce the chances of blowing a fuse or tripping your breaker.
__________________
2003 GEORGETOWN 325
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
Nights camped in 2011: 108
Nights camped in 2012: 41
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03-01-2010, 05:08 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,260
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If you need to run the a/c at home the best thing is to have a 30/50 amp receptacle installed. If you need to use an extension cord, use a 12 gage minimum. It would be cheaper to have the 30 amp receptacle in stalled then to have the a/c replaced, you are looking to spend about $800 to replace provided damage exceeds the control board and burns up the compressor. One thing about Dometic a/c units, they do not handle voltage drop very well. So why take a chance...
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03-01-2010, 05:57 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 314
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If you are taking your trailer power cord either a 30 or 50 amp service. Ok lets say you have 30 amp trailer power you use the normal 30 to 110 adapter. Not using any other extension cords or stuff. Running the ac should be ok, however you will most likely not be able to run much else.
Good power management is important when plugged into standard 110.
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3500 Ram 5.9l diesel
08 35 RLT Cardinal
5th Airborne Pin Box
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03-01-2010, 07:30 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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In keeping apples to apples. Here in North America, all RV shore power (save a rare few) is 120 volts. The large three prong plug on most RV's is 120 volts/30 amps. The standard household receptacle is 120volts/15 amps. With a properly sized and length cord (12awg 25') you should be able to run your A/C from a 120volt/15amp receptacle. As mentioned above, be aware of the voltage drop as that will send your A/C to an early grave.
Now before someone jumps on me about the 240volt/50amp service. Yes it does exist but in most cases it's used as 2 120volt services (save a few applications).
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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03-01-2010, 08:14 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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Low voltage is a killer for A/Cs and since I live/camp mostly in the south, I invested in a voltage management device (AKA voltage booster).
Sucks more current to boost up the voltage when the voltage in the park gets low, cuts off if the voltage spikes and generally keeps my electronics happy.
Electrical problems are some of the hardest to trace, so I figured I would put one of these devices on my rig when it was new and my hope is that I have fewer problems over it's life. 2 years in and I'm good so far.
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03-01-2010, 08:50 AM
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#9
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Now a "Top Member"
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Roman Forest, TX
Posts: 4,352
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In my old TT, we used it for a guest bedroom, and I normally kept it plugged in with the fridge on (in case I needed to have some alone time with a beer!!). The AC ran just fine, even in the heat of south Texas summer. I never had any issues with it, but it was 13,500 unit, and it usually never ran for more than the overnight sleeping accomodations. The other thing to be aware of is if all your outside plugs are on a GFCI. Those will likely trip no matter what you do.
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Ed and Sharon
2010 Wildcat 28RKBS
2019 Ford F-250 XLT - AWESOME Truck!
Retired AF MSgt
I thought I was wrong once, but I was wrong!
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03-01-2010, 09:47 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Enumclaw, WA
Posts: 2,615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
In keeping apples to apples. Here in North America, all RV shore power (save a rare few) is 120 volts. The large three prong plug on most RV's is 120 volts/30 amps. The standard household receptacle is 120volts/15 amps. With a properly sized and length cord (12awg 25') you should be able to run your A/C from a 120volt/15amp receptacle. As mentioned above, be aware of the voltage drop as that will send your A/C to an early grave.
Now before someone jumps on me about the 240volt/50amp service. Yes it does exist but in most cases it's used as 2 120volt services (save a few applications).
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All of what Bama said is correct however the building code in most areas calls for 20 amp outlets in garages so if you are plugging into an outlet in your garage or an outlet on the oustide adjacent to the garage, chances are your outlets are 20 amp. No problem running the A/C on that. Like others here have said don't use an extension cord if possible and if you must it should be a heavy duty grade and only long enough to get the job done.
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03-01-2010, 10:31 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 36
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I run my 13.5K BTU AC just fine on a standard house outlet. I make sure not to run anything else other than lights and I have never tripped a breaker.
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