De-winterizing

[Tanddhall]

Thought finally coming to time to get my camper ready with the warmer/drier weather now here. Most of the time I have my unit winterized by a local dealer and they leave it in ready to use condition once the antifreeze is flushed out of the lines. I used a different dealer this time and find they left it ready for me to reverse the winterizing. I am ok with which way the switches and valves should be but have never had the anode rod left out for the winter. Main question is do you use thread sealer on the anode rod threads going into the water heater only leave them dry?
Would someone also outline which way the bypass valves should be left for usage?

[CNYCamper]

Teflon tape. Don't go nuts, maybe 2 or 3 wraps. Start threading by hand so you don't cross thread. You'll need a 1 and 1/16 socket.

[aceinspp]

I remove mine after every trip. Never use the tape just lightly oil and reinsert never leaks. Hot and cold line parallel for summer middle opposite. Later RJD

[Tanddhall]

Thanks for the reply which leads me to another question. What would the benefit be to pull the rod after each trip since you would have to wait on the heater to fill on the next trip before turning on the heater?

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by Tanddhall

Thanks for the reply which leads me to another question. What would the benefit be to pull the rod after each trip since you would have to wait on the heater to fill on the next trip before turning on the heater?

Specifically so they can get fresh water. Some people don't like to let it sit.

I find it depends how long you plan to let it sit. We use ours often enough (at least every other weekend) that I don't worry about stagnant water in the tank. But if we're busy for a month or so that we can't use it I'll pull the rod and drain the tank.


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[youroo]

Originally Posted by Tanddhall

Thanks for the reply which leads me to another question. What would the benefit be to pull the rod after each trip since you would have to wait on the heater to fill on the next trip before turning on the heater?

That is a Easy answer,,RR Man's Dad owns the Factory that makes the Elect.Heater Rods! If a person just Forgets (1) Time to turn off the W/H elect.switch when there is NO Water in the Tank,you will be Paying RR Mans Allowance! Youroo!!

[aceinspp]

Yes if tt is sitting for a least a month then drain. You can fill water heater at home so its full when you get to cg. Later RJD

[Rupkin2]

Yes use Teflon tape, remember to wrap it on counter clockwise.

Not sure about your unit but on mine I have 5 valves

3 valves at the HWT:

1-Valve for cold water in- open for summer use, closed for winterize.
1-Valve that connects cold and hot water lines-closed for summer use, open for winterize.
1-Valve for hot water out-open for summer use, closed for winterize.

(See Flybob's pic below)

2 valves at FW intake:

1-Valve close to your water pump, this valve will have an open ended hose attached, the open end goes into the antifreeze jug when you winterize.
Closed for summer use open for winterize.

1-Valve lets your FW into the system-open for summer use, closed for winterize.
You may have to look around for this but it should also be close to the water pump.

If your not sure if the valve is open or closed, the handle goes with the direction of the flow. E.g. If the handle is parallel to the pipe it is then open, perpendicular it is then closed.

One more item:
when your winterizeing do the HWT valves first then winterize. No need to fill the HWT with antifreeze.
When your de-winterizeing do the HWT valves after you de-winterized. Do not want to be putting antifreeze into the HWT. (Takes forever to get all of it out, oops)

This is how mine is set up, yours may very well be different but it should be somewhat similar.

Hope this helped and not confuse

John

[Flybob]

Picture might help.

This is winterized. Rotate each of the three valves 90 degrees for operational mode.

Don't forget to flush the inside and outside shower ( even if you don't use it) and toilet.

[zuterbru]

On the Valves, think as the ends or the longer part of the valve, as having arrows on it. That is the opening of the ball valve, the water will flow that way. In the pic above, the bypass is open but the valves in and out of the tank are closed.
I have gotten in the habit of putting fresh water conditioner in the fresh tank everytime I put water in. It helps keep the system from having issues during the season.
I would also recommend sanitizing the fresh water system first thing in the spring. When I skip this step I have to do it later on anyhow. There are bacteria that live in the fresh water system, totally harmless but do not smell or taste to good.
Here is a pretty good write up: How to Sanitize Your RV Fresh Water System

[Tanddhall]

Thanks to all for your suggestions and ways of handling. I knew this forum would give me quick and reliable answers.

[CNYCamper]

Originally Posted by aceinspp

I remove mine after every trip. Never use the tape just lightly oil and reinsert never leaks. Hot and cold line parallel for summer middle opposite. Later RJD

My Suburban manual states that lack of a pipe sealant approved for potable water can void the warranty - not saying oil is a bad idea, just mentioning as a warranty issue.