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Old 06-04-2017, 04:29 PM   #21
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The wattage was 1500 on the one I put back in. But I checked the other element that I had bought in order to have a spare, and I noticed that it's quite a bit shorter than the one I took out. I just went to Home Depot to get the replacements. I notice that the length of the one's that can be ordered from Camping World, is almost 11 inches. The one I have in there now is only 6 inches in length. Now that I think about it, seems like the longer the element in the water, the hotter it should get. Sound right to you?
Can you take a photo of the packaging?

Rheem PROTECH 120-Volt, 1500-Watt Copper Heating Element-SP10874FH - The Home Depot

Rheem PROTECH 120-Volt, 1440-Watt Stainless Steel Heating Element-SP10868LH - The Home Depot

Eastman 120-Volt, 1500-Watt Water Heater Element-60061 - The Home Depot

They are all around 8 inches
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:34 PM   #22
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The one I put back in is 6 inches in length. The one that came out is 8 inches. But the one that Camping World and other RV suppliers call for is 10 inches. I've checked with several RV dealerships, and they all say the one that's 10 inches, is the replacement element for the SW6DE. Seems like the 10 inch element would have more area of coverage in the water, than the 6 inch element that's currently in, and therefore heat up the water faster and hotter. But I may be totally wrong about that
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:48 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by RickyD929 View Post
The one I put back in is 6 inches in length. The one that came out is 8 inches. But the one that Camping World and other RV suppliers call for is 10 inches. I've checked with several RV dealerships, and they all say the one that's 10 inches, is the replacement element for the SW6DE. Seems like the 10 inch element would have more area of coverage in the water, than the 6 inch element that's currently in, and therefore heat up the water faster and hotter. But I may be totally wrong about that
That was my point. The Home Depot available 120 volt units are not direct replacements for the Suburban RV water heater (though they will work in a pinch).
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:53 PM   #24
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therefore heat up the water faster and hotter. But I may be totally wrong about that
Maybe faster due to more heating element surface in contact with the water, but not hotter.

The temp is controlled via the thermostat, not the heating element. The heating element just produces heat at the specified wattage. It'll do this constantly if not for the thermostat.

The thermostat controls the temp by turning on/off power to the heating element. When the water temp reaches around the 130-35 degree mark, the thermostat just cuts off the 120 AC voltage to the element. When the water temp drops enough in the tank, the thermostat then closes the 120 volt AC circuit and the heating element comes back on until it reaches the 130-35 degree mark again, where the thermostat opens the circuit again, shutting the power off to the element.

So your water temp in your tank is only going to get to the 130-35 degree mark whether it's heated by a 6, 7, or 10 inch long element...and whether it's 500 or 1500 watts.

Think of it working like a space heater with a thermostat. The heater just heats up at the same wattage, until the room temp is reached, and the thermostat turns the space heater off.
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:57 PM   #25
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1500 watts is 1500 watts no matter if it's a 10" or 6" element.

While there is more surface coverage area on a 10 element, that surface area isn't as hot as the surface area on a 6" element when either is making 1500 watts of heat.

While there might be a slight argument on efficiency of area vs temperature, I'm going to doubt you'll see much difference in a 6 gallon tank.
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:19 PM   #26
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Ok, then something else must be wrong. The water temperature gets no where near 130 degrees on electric. It will on gas though. On electric it only gets a little above luke warm. It has to be working, or it wouldn't even be getting luke warm
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:25 PM   #27
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Ok, then something else must be wrong. The water temperature gets no where near 130 degrees on electric. It will on gas though. On electric it only gets a little above luke warm. It has to be working, or it wouldn't even be getting luke warm
It's possible you may have a "bad" new element.

I would say to check your crossover valve, as it produces the same symptom you describe... but it should be the same if it's on electric or propane.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:38 PM   #28
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wmtire could be right. Check the resistance of the element. I think it should be somewhere between 8 and 10 ohms if it's a 1500 watt element.
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:44 PM   #29
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I'm just gonna replace it this week with the correct replacement element, and see what happens
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Old 06-05-2017, 04:07 PM   #30
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I'm just gonna replace it this week with the correct replacement element, and see what happens
We were just informed by a "High Ranking Forest River Engineer" that since late 2012 Suburban W/H elements can be "Dry Fired" Without damage! So your unit must be a Early Build! Youroo!!
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Old 06-05-2017, 04:11 PM   #31
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We were just informed by a "High Ranking Forest River Engineer" that since late 2012 Suburban W/H elements can be "Dry Fired" Without damage! So your unit must be a Early Build! Youroo!!
Wow.

Another "un-named source" ...
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Old 06-05-2017, 04:24 PM   #32
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Not sure when it was produced. Just know we purchased it in Feb 2013, and the people we bought it from, had bought it brand new in 2012. I've not heard about the safe dry fire before now
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Old 06-05-2017, 04:30 PM   #33
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Wow.

Another "un-named source" ...
If you would attend the Electric Water Heater Seminar at the Goshen Rally you can hear it for yourself! He gives the Electric Seminars! If you have any other Questions in regards to the Element,contact Suburban! Youroo!!
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Old 06-05-2017, 04:39 PM   #34
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Think I'll pass on driving all the way to Goshen to hear somebody talk. Really doesn't matter if they can be dry fired now-a-days or not. Mine evidently can't be. But, I appreciate the input
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:15 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
We were just informed by a "High Ranking Forest River Engineer" that since late 2012 Suburban W/H elements can be "Dry Fired" Without damage! So your unit must be a Early Build! Youroo!!
Quote:
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If you would attend the Electric Water Heater Seminar at the Goshen Rally you can hear it for yourself! He gives the Electric Seminars! If you have any other Questions in regards to the Element,contact Suburban! Youroo!!
Youroo, this is the first I have ever heard that and really wish it was true. It's possible he may have been referring to some other brand.

However, as many of these threads that I have been active in, I would have to say that someone is misinformed. Here is just a very recent one, where two members burned out their elements, where one was in a 2015 model, and the other was a 2017 model.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1447848

Looking at Forest Rivers own website, they have this Suburban manual listed with a June 2013 printing date, which also reaffirms on page 6 that you cannot operate the electric element without water or it will burn out the electric element.

http://idn.tweddle.com/media/bundle-...ATER%20(2).pdf
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Old 06-06-2017, 05:06 PM   #36
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If you would attend the Electric Water Heater Seminar at the Goshen Rally you can hear it for yourself! He gives the Electric Seminars! If you have any other Questions in regards to the Element,contact Suburban! Youroo!!
The last few I attended he made a few statements that were not totally correct; however, the majority of the information presented was accurate and timely for the average RV user, as well as novice owners.

RV technicians need not attend.
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Old 06-06-2017, 05:12 PM   #37
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We were just informed by a "High Ranking Forest River Engineer" that since late 2012 Suburban W/H elements can be "Dry Fired" Without damage! So your unit must be a Early Build! Youroo!!
I'd like to see something that supports that assertion. It'd be interesting if true.
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Old 06-06-2017, 05:13 PM   #38
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I'd like to see something that supports that assertion. It'd be interesting if true.
You will have a long wait as it is not true.
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Old 06-06-2017, 08:05 PM   #39
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2015 & 2016 Suburban manuals say empty tank WILL burn out the element.
Period end of story.
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Old 06-06-2017, 08:24 PM   #40
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Check to make sure the outside shower faucets are turned off. You can stop the flow of water and have the faucets on, It will cause mixing and cooler water.
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