Hello - this is my first time winterizing my TT. I have a Flagstaff Microlite by Forest River. I have already completely drained all of the water out of it and am ready to add antifreeze. I have a antifreeze port on the side of the trailer next to the city water connection port. I am trying to figure out what valve I am supposed to close on the water pump - it's supposed to divert the suction of the water pump from the fresh water tank to the port on the outside of the trailer. Trying to make sure I select the right valve. Help will be greatly appreciated!
On my 21FBRS, I go in on the left side compartment in the front, and remove the paneling at the forward end of the pass-through. That is where the water pump, water filter, and the bypass valve are all located (BTW, the water heater is behind a panel on the right (aft) side of the same opening).
Remove the panel, remove the filter cartridge, replace the housing (put in a water bottle in place of the filter to reduce how much antifreeze you need to run), and change the position of the valve. That should get it to start sucking from the winterize port (which is right there next to the city water connection).
If you don't have a 21FBRS, it may be in a different location. Listen for the sound of the water pump and look behind a panel in the vicinity.
Marinerjoe - thanks for the info! I have a 25DKS and it sounds like the pump and water heater are in the same exact location on both TT's.
I've emptied out the water filter cartridge already - thanks for the water bottle idea!! Pretty sure I know which valve you're talking about and thanks for your help.
Mr Dan - if I'm having trouble later today when I look at the pump, I'll take a picture of it and repost. I think I know which valve it is.
You're welcome. The pump is a "positive displacement" pump, so you shouldn't need to prime it. If it DOESN'T take a suction after a reasonable amount of time, you may need to get some antifreeze down the hose to the pump, and then it should suck in the antifreeze
Blowing air up to 40 psi with a diy fitting on the city water fitting is so much easier for FR motorhomes. It should work on TT. No water in any of system by opening each faucet one at a time incl the water heater drain, leaving all faucets and drain valves open, RV antifreeze in the sink and shower drain. No aftertaste in water from RV antifreeze in the spring.
There is a distinct probability that will leave significant water in the water pump since the city water connection is on the output side of the pump. You are risking the pump in doing this. Blow out with air first then, put a water bottle or something in the water filter housing and run 1 gallon of antifreeze through the system using the pump winterization valve and tube, one valve at a time is a foolproof system.
There is a distinct probability that will leave significant water in the water pump since the city water connection is on the output side of the pump. You are risking the pump in doing this. Blow out with air first then, put a water bottle or something in the water filter housing and run 1 gallon of antifreeze through the system using the pump winterization valve and tube, one valve at a time is a foolproof system.
In my experience, I run the pump a few seconds after the air pressure procedure on the city water fitting and any remaining water in the pump is pushed out through a faucet as air from the empty fresh water tank flows through.
This technique has worked for me in a freezing climate (No. Nevada) since 1993.
In my experience, I run the pump a few seconds after the air pressure procedure on the city water fitting and any remaining water in the pump is pushed out through a faucet as air from the empty fresh water tank flows through.
This technique has worked for me in a freezing climate (No. Nevada) since 1993.
Probably, sounds reasonable. Since I always use a gallon of the pink stuff I will never know. In addition, that means you have to run the pump a little during the compressed air procedure.
There is a distinct probability that will leave significant water in the water pump since the city water connection is on the output side of the pump. You are risking the pump in doing this. Blow out with air first then, put a water bottle or something in the water filter housing and run 1 gallon of antifreeze through the system using the pump winterization valve and tube, one valve at a time is a foolproof system.
This is exactly what happened to me! My rig froze after the blow out and before I pumped antifreeze and my pump froze. So I will be doing a pump repair in the spring.
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2015 Rockwood Roo 23IKSS
2015 GMC Sierra 1500
If it is your first time make sure to drain hot water tank after relieving pressure on it, then turn the bypass valves so you are not putting anti freeze in it, also run anti freeze thru your out side shower as well
Don't forget to burp your fresh water valve. There is a check valve in there that holds fresh water after a gravity drain. The only way to get it out is to:
or 3) While the camper's water pump is pumping antifreeze into the system, remove the screen washer from the fresh water inlet and wiggle the plastic check valve stem until pink comes out.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Don't forget to burp your fresh water valve. There is a check valve in there that holds fresh water after a gravity drain. The only way to get it out is to:
or 3) While the camper's water pump is pumping antifreeze into the system, remove the screen washer from the fresh water inlet and wiggle the plastic check valve stem until pink comes out.
In my experience, I run the pump a few seconds after the air pressure procedure on the city water fitting and any remaining water in the pump is pushed out through a faucet as air from the empty fresh water tank flows through.
This technique has worked for me in a freezing climate (No. Nevada) since 1993.
2x that but we have winterized with just air in the last for 10+ years in Ohio winters. And baby, it gets cold outside!
Key point here was how quick the OP got his answer. This is an awesome group.
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2015 Windjammer 3029 Diamond Edition
2018 Ram 2500
Ohio River Rat
There is a distinct probability that will leave significant water in the water pump since the city water connection is on the output side of the pump. You are risking the pump in doing this. Blow out with air first then, put a water bottle or something in the water filter housing and run 1 gallon of antifreeze through the system using the pump winterization valve and tube, one valve at a time is a foolproof system.
I don’t think you read the post. It IS the antifreeze line which comes in BEFORE the pump not the city line that comes in after. The pump will see a full shot of antifreeze.
All - thanks for all of the advice! I found the valve by the water pump and was able to get my trailer winterized - lot easier than expected. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
RV Blow out Adapter
Linear Mode
