Fridge not cooling

[JohnD10]

It usually takes around 24 hours for these things to get down to temp.

[michael.mcilrath]

So what your says is that my battery needs to be on as well even though the fridg doesn’t run on, it does effect the operation?

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by michael.mcilrath

So what your says is that my battery needs to be on as well even though the fridg doesn’t run on, it does effect the operation?

Yes, that is what runs the controls, your on and off panel in front, no 12 volt no control, plugged in or not. 12 volt operates all your controls, nothing else. Except your inside light bulb is 12 volt also.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by michael.mcilrath

So what your says is that my battery needs to be on as well even though the fridg doesn’t run on, it does effect the operation?

Even when trying to operate the refrigerator on 120v it needs 12v to run the controls.

Also in 'auto' the refrigerator will look for 120v operation first. If there is no 120v, the control board automatically switches to L.P. operation and will try three times to light the flame. If the gas valve is off or you are out of propane, the control will go into lockout and nothing will happen again until the refrigerator is shut off and turned back on where the process will repeat.

[rockfordroo]

You haven't stated what make/model you have, but more than likely, the attached operating manual covers it. If not one of these, operation is still similar.

"When all else fails, read the instructions."

PS: With respect to the 110volt plug, there are numerous threads here where it's been discovered that the factory didn't bother to plug it in!

[michael.mcilrath]

Well all the controls are coming on but I’ll try connecting the battery

[rockfordroo]

If the lights are lighting, your converter is supplying the 12VDC. But you should have the battery connected anyway. Acts as a load and filter for the converter.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by michael.mcilrath

Well all the controls are coming on but I’ll try connecting the battery

Seems you are unsure how some of the systems work in your rig.

When plugged into shore power, you have an on-board device called a converter that changes 120v A.C. (shore power) to 12v DC. It supplies the camper 12v regardless whether the battery is connected or not as long as you are plugged in.

As mentioned, when on shore power, you really should have the battery connected as it charges the battery and helps the converter do its job properly.

There are many informative threads in the forum library that explain many of these systems.

[Rich5117]

Gonna try a different angle. Place a bottle of water in the freezer and fridge section. In the fridge section place it on the center rack. Let it set over night if the freezer one is not froze and the fridge one is not cold in the morning you may have an issue.

There is a way to do a quick check after an hour or so of being turned on. If you have or can borrow a hand held infrared thermometer you can check the back wall of the freezer and the back of the fridge coil area. They should both be below freezing.

Our Dometic will get cold over night, but takes a day or two to really settle in at temps of 0 to 5 degrees in the freezer and 38 degrees in the fridge.

[rockfordroo]

Our Dometic will be cold in 4 hrs, ONCE I push that stupid thermistor back up!

[Witch Doctor]

I think the OP, problem was that he had is battery disconnect off. Maybe he will tell us what happened after all the advice given him by this community.

[michael.mcilrath]

Yeah I just got it 6 weeks ago and was in storage for four of those weeks. Still learning

[270S]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

I do not find this with my Norcol, mine will go from 78 in the freezer to below 32 in a little over 3 hrs. Could take 5 to 6 to reach 40 in my refer. Section. As far as having to have something in it as said by BOB, that's wrong also, when I tested mine for 24 hours my freezer temp was at 2 and the refer was 28 nothing inside. I guess some are different.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Forest River Forums mobile app

Ditto!

I use a "paper clip" to keep the thermistor in place.

[keith_h]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

I think the OP, problem was that he had is battery disconnect off. Maybe he will tell us what happened after all the advice given him by this community.

The battery disconnect won't make a difference on shore power as the 12 VDC is supplied by the converter. If the OP sees the interior and operational lights that says the fridge is seeing 12 VDC.

I don't rely upon my sense of feel to determine if the fridge is cooling. I have a refrigerator thermometer I use to verify the temp. Typically after 5 or 6 hours it will be reading near 40 degrees unless it is very hot out then it could take 10 or more hours. It usually takes about 24 hours to fully stabilize.

[michael.mcilrath]

Okay so I left the battery on and plugged into 110 and the fridge still does not cool. Same temp sitting at 78

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by michael.mcilrath

Okay so I left the battery on and plugged into 110 and the fridge still does not cool. Same temp sitting at 78

How level is the trailer?

[michael.mcilrath]

As level as it can get.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by michael.mcilrath

As level as it can get.

Do you know if it was working 6 weeks ago when you picked the unit up? Did your dealer have it running and it was cold? Give him a call....

[michael.mcilrath]

they had everything else on and just showed me how to turn it On. It was not running. Taking to the deal today. Thank you everyone for your help

[RSchleder]

michael---As a constructive suggestion for the future. It always helps if you read the questions from those trying to help and specifically answer each question with clear answers that provide the requested information. It is extremely difficult to assist with any problem when the info provided is incomplete or confusing. Good luck with the new trailer!