Furnace not coming on! FREEZING Cold! Help

[Dr. Dave]

I found that the propane regulator needed replacement. You can test for this by turning on all the stove burners/water heater and see if they go out or reduce when you turn on the propane generator.

Sometimes the regulator will only allow a small amount of fuel and not enough to light the furnace.

Dr. Dave

[Cedricshelby]

Ok - I check the powe at the fuse - fine
Check the power at the the roast - fine

Hoping it's the thermostat itself - not the furnace

[Cedricshelby]

FYI : stove works great -
It's going to get cold tonight :-(

[JustB_Rad]

Originally Posted by Cedricshelby

FYI : stove works great -
It's going to get cold tonight :-(

Go to walmart and buy yourself a heater.....

[B and B]

Short the two terminals with slot screws on the left. If furnace starts the thermostat is bad.

The Mercury bulb (silver) should be disposed off properly as well.

[Cedricshelby]

Will do

[Cedricshelby]

I want to try to by pass the thermostat before I pay $189 to look at it- if I know what's wrong with it they won't hurt me financially so bad!

[5picker]

Originally Posted by B and B

Short the two terminals with slot screws on the left. If furnace starts the thermostat is bad.

I asked him to do that 57 posts ago in post # 11.

[bob caldwell]

I did in post 2....that's what everyone is trying to do...save you some cash, and have you learn a little about your RV

[Cedricshelby]

Sorry - I just don't understand what you are saying -

Please simplify Terminology for a dummy like mw

[B and B]

Originally Posted by 5picker

I asked him to do that 57 posts ago in post # 11.

I know...maybe it was lost in the noise on the thread! Like AM radio at night and 3 stations on the same channel and all i want o listen too is WSM!!!

[Cedricshelby]

:-)

[Toddupton]

Unscrew the red wire and touch it to the little brass piece in the end of the white wire and hold it there and see if it comes on. It might take a few seconds for something to happen. Did you kill all 12 volt power to it for 30 seconds and turn it back on. The unit will lock out if it does not lite.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Toddupton

Unscrew the red wire and touch it to the little brass piece in the end of the yellow wire and hold it there and see if it comes on. It might take a few seconds for something to happen. Did you kill all 12 volt power to it for 30 seconds and turn it back on. The unit will lock out if it does not lite.

That won't eliminate the thermostat... just the on/off switch.

Unscrew the red wire and touch to the white wire. (lower left)
If the furnace blower starts to run, the thermostat is bad.

If the red wire isn't long enough to pull down and touch the white wire, get a short piece of wire and use as a jumper between those two wires.

[5picker]

Toddupton... a word of advice... if you are going to edit your posts to completely change information you already posted, you should include an edit line explaining why.

I quoted your original post where you suggested touching the red wire to the YELLOW.
You then edited your post (after my quote) to say to touch to WHITE wire.

For folks trying to follow along, things like this make it awfully confusing.

[Toddupton]

Sorry I was in the middle of editing my post when I saw yours

[5picker]

Understandable... thanks.

[W5CI]

Originally Posted by JustB_Rad

Go to walmart and buy yourself a heater.....

x2 I have two elect heaters and never run my furnace, I heat on their dime

[Doug-2015-8289ws]

Hello Cedric,
This could be a loose wire next to the heater fuse and set screw could just need to be tightened down. You need to remove the cover to the fuse and breaker box to check for loose wires.
I had the same problem with my heater in my 2015 Rockwood 8289ws 5th wheel.
Mine is a Suburban heater too but with a different thermostat which runs the A/C and heater. Neither one would come on. I checked fuses and the circuit breakers all ok. I checked for 13.60 DC volts to the fuse positive block side, ok, good power to the power block bar. This is where all the wires from the appliances are wired in on the long aluminum block bar. On the left are all the white ground wires and on the right are all the colored positive wires coming into the right power block with screws to hold the wires secure in the aluminum block. If you use a volt meter put the neg on the neg bar where all the white wires are going to and put the positive wire to the place where the heater fuse goes in, pull the fuse first to see if your getting 13.60 dc volts there. Go to the wire next to the heater fuse and see if it is loose, if it is tighten down the screw to make better contact. If the heater blower is not coming on first then that could be the problem. We all check the fuses and circuit breakers to see if they have been tripped but we all forget to check for loose wires at the power blocks from vibrations while traveling or not tighten down at the factories or could be a loose wire somewhere else. Some sail switches go bad on heaters too. The blower comes on first then then the gas fires up to heater. If you have access to the heater blower fan see if it spins freely and it is not locked up. Hope its just a loose wire if the fuse and circuit breaker are ok. Some Techs don't tell you to check for loose wires. I carry a portable electric heater as backup just in case heater ever acts up.

[Flybob]

Think you/we have pretty much exhausted all the push this, reset that, check this options there are. You are now down to three options.
1. Get a meter and trace wiring to determine if/where the problem is.
2. Call a tech and have then fix it.
3. purchase an electric heater