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Old 08-02-2017, 04:57 PM   #21
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Curious to see what they did with the front of your camper interior. My camper is similar and has some water damage on the front and rear of the inside where the wallpaper is wavy or has bubbles under it.
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Old 08-02-2017, 06:41 PM   #22
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Don't forget the trip to the RV store for the Butyl tape, the Pro-flex, and the Dicor sealant or you'll be re-doing the interior again.


Good call!! Guess I better place an amazon order before wasting the wife's credit card scraping off the flex seal. Better throw in another case of beer too. This one will probably take all of Sunday as well.
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Old 08-02-2017, 06:50 PM   #23
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Try 3M adhesive remover wheel

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005R...+remover+wheel
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:07 PM   #24
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Walls look stock and in good condition. Except for one area towards the front drivers. I was told all the flooring was replaced as a result of the damage, which made a sweet deal (flooded out and froze in the off season). However, the floor installers and an over zealous braid nailer chewed on a run of Romex causing electrical problems worth bartering for and become the highlight of negotiations. Of course, the exact problem wasn't known (popping GFI) until I starting digging into it. Was worth the few K's off the price tag and a whole weekend cursing with the Captain while chasing wires. After all has been said and done, I THEN found you fine folks on the awesome FR app. Appreciate everyone's feedback and have found several useful tips. I'm sure every project after this one will go much smoother as a result of this great forum.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:48 PM   #25
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madlog81, have you had a look at the roof yet? I'm curious how that looks. You may want to check on it and order some Eternabond to cover all the seams even if they don't show any sign of damage.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:58 PM   #26
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madlog81, have you had a look at the roof yet? I'm curious how that looks. You may want to check on it and order some Eternabond to cover all the seams even if they don't show any sign of damage.


Same crummy flex seal running along the top front where the cap laps the roof. Did a clean and condition the first weekend I acquired the TT. It's on the verge of cracking, much like the sides and front. Eternabond will be thrown in the cart too. Looks like I better dig out the tarp. This is going to be a big project. My OCD will kick in and I'll have to pull the front cap off and start over in order to make the repair feel right. Ha!
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:06 AM   #27
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Turtle wax makes a spray decal/sticker remover, works very well.
Best stuff on the market, get it at Walmart in automotive.
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:34 AM   #28
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I'm late to the party but if you're still working on that goo on the front
corner- someone suggested pressure washing.
I gotta disagree.
Pressure washing a seam is looking for trouble and pressure washing a
suspect seam that you have just removed the sealer on is really not a good
idea.

Good luck with your repairs!
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Old 08-03-2017, 05:29 PM   #29
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Old 08-03-2017, 05:51 PM   #30
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I resealed both sides, it has a pretty deep joint on both sides, I used Dicor non sag lap sealant and started at the top went very slow like and worked the Dicor in like if you were welding ( pushing the nozzle into the Dicor to make sure it went all the way to the bottom) l used acetone a small flat head screwdriver and a metal putty knife to clean, I thought about taking the front endcap apart at the seam, but it was put together different from the rear and with as much Dicor to fill the seam I would seal, also looked like more than I wanted to tackle, I did remove the corner trim from rear endcap and put two layers of butyl tape under the corner trim ( there wasn't enough put on from factory butyl tape did not even touch in places). l also removed front end cap window an put two layers of butyl tape around window, I did have a leak there, and put a bead of Dicor non sag lap sealant around window, I used a little dish soap in water an dipped my finger in it to be able to smooth it out, only doing about two feet at a time. If you take the window out there are rivets inside the window that you need to make sure they are sealed, I put two layers of Eternabond over them, it's only about 3/4 inch by 2 1/2 inches.
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:23 PM   #31
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:43 PM   #32
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That looks way better then the cracked up, gold colored over sprayed flex seal!! Good work. About how many tubes did it take to pack into the front corners?
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:19 PM   #33
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That looks way better then the cracked up, gold colored over sprayed flex seal!! Good work. About how many tubes did it take to pack into the front corners?
I just finished repairing these a few months ago, I have done so much work to get where we could move in, we full time, it was no more than two per side, if it was that much, but if ya buy extra don't worry you will use them, and I have used partial tubes and if you take a thin screwdriver and stick in the nozzle you can finish using the tube. I cleaned all the old sealant out of the seam went over it with acetone and scraped it a second time and wiped once more with acetone. I didn't try to smooth out the Dicor on the seam just went slow and made sure it was full, if ya go to slow it will start to belly out, over run the seam. I also cleaned the old Dicor out of the top endcap seam where the rubber roof is mounted down, refilled it with Dicor let it set for about a week and covered the roof seam with Eternabond, and Eternabond is everything they say it is, I use acetone to clean with and I paint on eternaprime wait 25 minutes and place your Eternabond, just go slow, if anything I've learned about repairing a TT is take your time.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:25 PM   #34
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I used Dicor self leveling lap sealant on the roof.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:52 PM   #35
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Old coot: please use my wife's credit card. Please!!!
He can use my wife's card if he can found out who stole it. I haven't called the police yet because they are spending less than she did.


BTW: Use SikaFlex to reseal.
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:52 PM   #36
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Old coot: please use my wife's credit card. Please!!!


Funny
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Old 08-05-2017, 07:36 AM   #37
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What ever it is, it was more than likely put there because of leaks, and you could have set rot. Whatever you use, make sure it will not remove paint. I would put a bead of silicone everywhere.....i did the same thing when I started out. Bought a used yt? And rebuilt it. Had dry rot bad.... you can remove the edging and inspect behind it...but if there is set rot, it would just be for your info. And I would get rid of it after one season of camping....i did.... And bought a brand new one.......good luck....
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Old 08-06-2017, 09:49 PM   #38
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So day one of the project and this is what I'm looking at so far.... chemicals didn't seem to be the route until the end. The "flex seal" was brittle and as you will see on the roof begin to split the original seal on the roof. Also, being so brittle, a razor blade seemed to do the trick on the gel coat sides. A handy caulk removal tool I had laying around to excavate the mess in between the corner cap and the plastic front shell. A 3M varnish removal wheel on the Milwaukee drill to coax the thicker messes off. Once everything was down to a thin candy layer, goof off seemed to do the trick and final cleaning. Used sponges with the greeny pad on one side and the sponge side to wipe the mixed batch of flex seal, someone's caulk, factory sealer? and the puddy that's sandwiched behind the moulding and the front plastic. I have to roof almost complete (forgot pics of that) and the corners are almost ready for fresh paint. I'll post more pics as progress continues and of some of the steps and tools that I've mentioned. I have 4" eternabond, Dicor leveling and non on standby. I took the cargo door off for inspection and ease of cleaning the mess. The "adhesive" that held the doors was weak and lacking sealant. What would work best to apply as a set the doors back in? Prior to screws and lap-jointing with Dicor. Just a standard adhesive caulk or sealant do the trick there? Click image for larger version

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Old 08-06-2017, 11:34 PM   #39
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Your local Rv shop should have the new double sticky putty tape to replace the stuff under the joints. If not you can order it from Camping World or any other place online...... be careful pouring tune screws back, that you do not strip them out.
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Old 08-09-2017, 07:40 PM   #40
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So day one of the project and this is what I'm looking at so far.... chemicals didn't seem to be the route until the end. The "flex seal" was brittle and as you will see on the roof begin to split the original seal on the roof. Also, being so brittle, a razor blade seemed to do the trick on the gel coat sides. A handy caulk removal tool I had laying around to excavate the mess in between the corner cap and the plastic front shell. A 3M varnish removal wheel on the Milwaukee drill to coax the thicker messes off. Once everything was down to a thin candy layer, goof off seemed to do the trick and final cleaning. Used sponges with the greeny pad on one side and the sponge side to wipe the mixed batch of flex seal, someone's caulk, factory sealer? and the puddy that's sandwiched behind the moulding and the front plastic. I have to roof almost complete (forgot pics of that) and the corners are almost ready for fresh paint. I'll post more pics as progress continues and of some of the steps and tools that I've mentioned. I have 4" eternabond, Dicor leveling and non on standby. I took the cargo door off for inspection and ease of cleaning the mess. The "adhesive" that held the doors was weak and lacking sealant. What would work best to apply as a set the doors back in? Prior to screws and lap-jointing with Dicor. Just a standard adhesive caulk or sealant do the trick there? Attachment 147400Attachment 147401Attachment 147402Attachment 147403Attachment 147404Attachment 147405Attachment 147406
It's looking good, cleaned up good, any molding, windows or vents I used two layers sometimes three layers of 1 inch x 1/8 inch buytl tape, everything l have removed that was put in by factory didn't have enough buytl tape under it, stuck in some places and some not. As I seen in a previous post, about over tightening screws, they are easy to strip, I have had to go up a size on some of the screws, not longer though, have even had repostion some a little to give screws new place to hold.
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