Had a blowout, have a few questions now :)

[Comanchecreek]

Originally Posted by timfromma

IMHO the best tools you can have for changing a tire are a bottle jack and battery powered impact wrench.

X2. I found that a smaller 1 1/2 ton floor jack makes things even easier as it will slip under the axle when the tire is flat. Battery impacts have gotten so good, it's really a no brainer to carry one. Just be sure to charge it up once in awhile.
Also search, china bombs, TPMS, on board air compressor, for more information than anyone can stand on the subject of blowouts.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Depends on the weight of the RV. Mine came with load range E but the failures didn't stop until I went with LR G. Much happier.

Maybe generalize stephensatt's rule to be:
"Always replace the original tires with ones that are one or two Load Ranges greater."

[timfromma]

Originally Posted by Comanchecreek

X2. I found that a smaller 1 1/2 ton floor jack makes things even easier as it will slip under the axle when the tire is flat. Battery impacts have gotten so good, it's really a no brainer to carry one. Just be sure to charge it up once in awhile.
Also search, china bombs, TPMS, on board air compressor, for more information than anyone can stand on the subject of blowouts.

Maybe your camper is different but I was warned not to jack the axle as it could get damaged. I jack directly on the frame as close to the axle as I can get.

[leeshearer]

Under the axle at the spring mount is ok.

[The Newsoms]

We recently drove home “3-legged” over 1000 miles when we had a bearing problem that damaged the spindle. They told us 6 weeks to get a new axle so we eased home. Torsion axles. We have a tpms and surprisingly to us, the tire that ran hotter was the one on the axle opposite the missing tire.

[rang-a-stang]

I have NNNnnnooo spare or tools at all! My rig came that way! It's on my list of hi priority items to buy. After reading this I will make sure when I am ordering a bottle jack and tool to replace the tire that they all work too. I appreciate you posting up!

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

We had failure with a Goodyear tire Load Range E. Went to Maxxis 8008s load range E and no troubles. But with our latest set we went to load range G. No troubles at all in 4 years

Hey Doug!
We had a set of Maxxis also, no problems with them, but as I'm sure you know, the LR G tires make all the difference when towing with that stiffer sidewall, especially in the wind (and it is always windy here). Makes towing even more relaxed.
Just drove from Flagstaff AZ to Farmington NM. Not by choice!!! The ladies have a bowling tournament this weekend in Farmington, otherwise I would never stop here
Anyway, we saw 5 different RV towables with flat tires on the side of the road in that short stretch. Saw one new pickup that broke his driver's rear fancy after market wheel. Tore up his truck and another truck when it hit the tire/wheel bouncing in the road.
I kept rubbing my lucky penny and we had no problems

[831 BHDS Flagstaff 2015]

I have carried two spars for years after having a flat. Was concerned I would have a second flat. Well it happened two flats within a hour of each other. No sweat made it to a tire shop.

[chriscowles]

We had a flat a couple of days ago due to a nail. We were sitting in an empty lot (source of the nail?) eating lunch when the TPMS went off.

It was our amazingly good luck that we were 1 block from a locally owned tire store, the nail was straight through in the middle of the tread and we still had enough pressure to drive the short distance. 30 minutes and $25 dollars later we were back on the road, not having lifted a finger.

That's in contrast to my experience last summer with multiple failures due to a bent spindle. I now carry an extra unmounted spare tire. It's easy to find an independent shop out in the sticks that can mount your tire. It's not always easy to find a new tire of the size you need.

[rang-a-stang]

Serious NEWB question here.

Hypothetical: we lose one of the dual rear tires on one side. TPMS starts screaming. We pull over and see one of our rear tires has no pressure. I have no spare but I do have a bottle jack. COULD I remove that flat tire/wheel, and drive to a tire shop on one rear tire or is that a straight up non-starter? (current tires are new Dynapro HT Load Range E)

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang

Serious NEWB question here.

Hypothetical: we lose one of the dual rear tires on one side. TPMS starts screaming. We pull over and see one of our rear tires has no pressure. I have no spare but I do have a bottle jack. COULD I remove that flat tire/wheel, and drive to a tire shop on one rear tire or is that a straight up non-starter? (current tires are new Dynapro HT Load Range E)

Why would you bother taking the "no pressure" tire off? It's not going to hurt that tire to rotate while the other one is carrying the load. The real question is should you attempt to drive at all because the adjacent, good tire is probably overloaded.

I have no education in this matter. My intuition tells me:
If you are in a dangerous place (e.g., traffic side on a narrow shoulder), at least drive to safety.
Possibly drive slowly to a tire shop. Avoid potholes and speed that could raise temperature.
Consider your load. Is the motorhome lightly loaded or stuffed plus toad tongue weight in making a decision.
If you choose to travel, have the good wheel/tire balanced when the new tire is installed on the other wheel. If major damage has occurred, it will show up on the balance machine, and you have to get TWO tires.

[Guspech750]

Last summer while driving from Chicago to the Grand Tetons. We stopped in a small town along our route somewhere in Wyoming for groceries. As I sat in the parking lot. Our TPMS started to chime that a tire was losing air. I just had new Goodyear’s installed on our trailer and was a bit peeved. I inspected the tire and did not find a puncture of any kind. I took out my little air compressor and filled up the tire. Went online and luckily a tire shop was across the street at the far end of the property. Turned out air was leaking from the stem. $20 fix. I do carry one spare and it’s stored under our bed. I also carry some tools, torque wrench, Makita impact gun and a much stronger larger HF impact gun.

[lwbfl]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Why would you bother taking the "no pressure" tire off? It's not going to hurt that tire to rotate while the other one is carrying the load. The real question is should you attempt to drive at all because the adjacent, good tire is probably overloaded.

I have no education in this matter. My intuition tells me:
If you are in a dangerous place (e.g., traffic side on a narrow shoulder), at least drive to safety.
Possibly drive slowly to a tire shop. Avoid potholes and speed that could raise temperature.
Consider your load. Is the motorhome lightly loaded or stuffed plus toad tongue weight in making a decision.
If you choose to travel, have the good wheel/tire balanced when the new tire is installed on the other wheel. If major damage has occurred, it will show up on the balance machine, and you have to get TWO tires.

The flat will beat itself apart and damage the rig and maybe the good tire as well. Don't ask me how I found this out.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by lwbfl

The flat will beat itself apart and damage the rig and maybe the good tire as well. Don't ask me how I found this out.

I completely agree! The flat tire is likely to shed itself if left on the trailer for any distance and will cause more damage.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by lwbfl

The flat will beat itself apart and damage the rig and maybe the good tire as well. Don't ask me how I found this out.

Thank you for the warning. You may have saved me from future damage. I am glad I asked the question.

Old saying: There is no such thing as a dumb question.

[mfMcFroggierPod]

I carry two spare assemblies.
I had a blow out on a tandem axle trailer. The second tire same side looked fine but an hour later it failed. So my procedure now is blow out both tires will get replaced on the same side. A slow leak 1 should be fine.

[rang-a-stang]

Thanks everyone! I know I need a spare (short term) and will see if I can get 2 spares.

Another related NEWB question:
on our dual rear wheels, inner and outer wheels are the same, right? Its also the same as the front one, right? Other than the stems?

[Slow Moon]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Depends on the weight of the RV. Mine came with load range E but the failures didn't stop until I went with LR G. Much happier.

X2

[Grapehound]

We have had numerous blowouts over the years. We always upgrade to higher rated tires when that happens.

If you use this ramp gadget from Tractor Supply, you can lift the flat tire by pulling the good tire onto this ramp, lifting the bad tire, and change out the tire without a jack of any sort. This is about as easy as it gets. No worries about placing a bottle jack here versus there.

If the ramp does not lift your flat tire quite high enough, you can place a wood shim (2 x 4) underneath it (as pictured) to give you the necessary height to change the tire.

The ramp's design cradles the tire to keep it from rolling forward or back while changing, though best to chock opposite wheel anyway.

These ramps are invaluable. Cost about $39.

[gw1800]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

Also on some trailers, like mine, the nuts that hold the spare tire onto the storage rack are different size than the regular lug nuts. I have 3/4" lug nuts and the spare has 13/16" nuts.

If you have not changed a tire before, do it in your driveway first to make sure all the tools you have will actually work.

Another thing to look into is a 1/2 inch torque wrench. An inexpensive one will do. It's better than nothing. Lowes, Home Depot or even Harbor Freight.