Help! Draining Hot WaterTank

giantfan · 10-19-2008, 04:45 PM

Guys,

I've got about 3 days before the overnight low drops down to -4C and Im trying to make sure my first year of winterizing the trailer (Surveyor) goes well.

So far everything is done, EXCEPT, draining the hot water tank!

I've purged the lines with air, added antifreeze, ran the antifree thru the pump, etc etc. But I can't figure out how to drain the hot water tank.

There is a 6 sided big bolt on the tank if I access the outside panel, but I cant figure how I'm supposed to get at it in order to turn it. It's set in there, and there are gas pipes etc in close proximity...

Advice appreciated. I want to try and resolve prior to the freeze

Giantfan
Erin, ON, Canada

giantfan · 10-19-2008, 05:00 PM

Just had another go of it. I guess I just need a bigger socket...

Anyone know the size?? Looks a hair bigger than an inch.

TacBear · 10-19-2008, 05:41 PM

My Suburban water heater drain plug is 1 - 1/16". Will be VERY tight.

This is also an anode rod. So you can inspect it, clean it, and reinsert it. Most recommend using plumbers teflon tape on the threads.

Good Luck.

TacBear

Hokiehall · 10-19-2008, 06:13 PM

I think mine is 1 1/16. Use an extension and you can get it out. Be sure to relieve the pressure valve before removing the anode rod. Otherwise it will shoot out like it was shot from a rifle. Don't ask me how I know.

HookMeUp · 10-19-2008, 06:32 PM

After you get the plug out run the garden hose in it and flush out any sedament that accumulates in the tank.

rockwood06 · 10-20-2008, 04:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hokie Hall

I think mine is 1 1/16. Use an extension and you can get it out. Be sure to relieve the pressure valve before removing the anode rod. Otherwise it will shoot out like it was shot from a rifle. Don't ask me how I know.

I know what you mean, I just removed my hot water plug Sunday at the camp ground to get a jump on Winterizing and I forgot to open the relieve valve..............however I turn off the hot water heater and run the hot water down the sink until the water is cold before I remove the plug, this way If I forget to open the relieve valve "as I did" then I will not get burnt.

Bduece · 10-20-2008, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HookMeUp

After you get the plug out run the garden hose in it and flush out any sedament that accumulates in the tank.

I winterized my trailer yesterday and noticed sediment. I'm going to use the garden hose on it like you suggested. It's one of those, "why didn't i think of that moments".

Thanks
Bill

giantfan · 10-25-2008, 05:22 PM

Thanks gang,

Yep, when down to the hardware store and picked up a 1 1/16 socket and we were off to the races.

I've only had the trailer since July as was surpised how much corrosion there is on the anode rod.

Are these meant to be replaced? I assume so, and is so, then at what point? It's fairly pitted, and had some calcium etc buildup on it. Is the purpose of this rod to pull these things from the water? Just curious.

Appreciate all the help! Calling for snow here over the next week, so just putting the finishing touches on closing it up - although I will be using it next weekend, but wont be adding water - just the furnace.

**Bama Rambler** · 10-25-2008, 09:35 PM

Yeah the anode rod is meant to be sacrificial and should be replaced when 50% of the rod diameter is gone. Most people change them once a year whether they need it or not. Mine is almost three years old and is finally in need of replacement. I guess all the places we go have soft water.

Trempert · 11-03-2008, 06:50 PM

The anode rod will decay almost immediately if any antifreeze gets into the hot water tank, so always make sure the bypass is on before winterizing and make sure you clear the lines of all antifreeze in the spring before turning the bypass off.

Cyclicpitcher · 11-08-2008, 11:24 AM

Here is a picture of a new plug with anode and my old unit that is 1 year old.

MtnGuy · 11-08-2008, 04:51 PM

I took my 4 yr. old anode rod (which looked much worse that the 1 in the picture) from my Trailmanor into the local RV dealer to get a replacement. The lady there said that she could sell me 1, but that I had a lot more life left in the 1 I had. If it gets down to looking mostly like a thin wire, then it is finally toast. I know that they are fairly cheap, but $12 or so over maybe a life expectancy of a 1/2 dozen years is $70 or so of money in my pocket. Besides, I sold the Trailmanor.

I do think it is very important to check that puppy every year, ideally when winterizing.

On a like note, while replacing the thermostats and checking the elements on my home water heater this week, I looked into the tank to check the anode rod there. Before rinsing it off with a stream of water, it looked like it was coated with clear Jello or something......yuch !!! After rinsing it off, it looked more like the used anode rod in the above picture. It was just sitting there and doing it's duty of giving up ions it's lifetime of galvanic exchange.

Chap

welshman599 · 11-08-2008, 07:50 PM

going along with this topic... you really should remove that anode and flush your tank a couple of times thoughout the seacon. More important with the Atwood, but both systems will benefit from removing the concentrated salts & minerials that are eating that anode.

ee4308 · 12-07-2008, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Yeah the anode rod is meant to be sacrificial and should be replaced when 50% of the rod diameter is gone. Most people change them once a year whether they need it or not. Mine is almost three years old and is finally in need of replacement. I guess all the places we go have soft water.

Here is a post from another forum pertaining to cleaning the rod. Haven't tried it yet but intend to.

http://www.cardinalrvclub.org/redbir...6edb84d#p18427

leisure1 · 12-24-2008, 04:45 PM

we always turn the inlet valve and outlet valve and bypass valve back to normal after winterizing then in the Spring when you flush, it will flow thru your entire system...any water going into the water heater will flush out any sediment...affter it flushes for some time you can re-install the anode bolt...by putting your sytem back to normal after winterizing you won't ever forget to fill up your water heater before turning it on and possibly burning out the element..

Facory · 01-21-2009, 09:49 AM

You can buy a plastic rod from the camping store that screws onto your garden hose. It will go deep inside the water heater and help flush out any residual debris. In order to get all of the water out, I run the other side of the trailer up on a makeshift ramp I made to elevate that side. That forces the water to run out of the heater. Let it set for a while so that it all gets out. When replacing the anode rod apply anti-seize coumpound to the threads. This will help get a good seal and will make it easier to unscrew it later.

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