Help With the Underbelly

[Mad Maddix]

Ok. Here's my situation. My family and I just finished 2 weeks on the road and with a few days left, I noticed the shower was leaking out the back of my Grey Wolf. Now I searched and learned it was my P-trap disconnected. Problem solved? No. One I'm having issues reconnecting the P-trap to stay connected, but second (and most important) all the water is sitting in the underbelly soaking the insulation. I do not have a warranty, so taking it in is not an option. So here's my question. Can you remove the underbelly? and a follow up. Do I need to change the insulation? I have a feeling mold will be growing soon. Oh and BTW I punctured the plastic (not the fabric) underbelly to drain some water already. Please help with advice

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by Mad Maddix

Ok. Here's my situation. My family and I just finished 2 weeks on the road and with a few days left, I noticed the shower was leaking out the back of my Grey Wolf. Now I searched and learned it was my P-trap disconnected. Problem solved? No. One I'm having issues reconnecting the P-trap to stay connected, but second (and most important) all the water is sitting in the underbelly soaking the insulation. I do not have a warranty, so taking it in is not an option. So here's my question. Can you remove the underbelly? and a follow up. Do I need to change the insulation? I have a feeling mold will be growing soon. Oh and BTW I punctured the plastic (not the fabric) underbelly to drain some water already. Please help with advice

Yes you can remove and replace the underbelly.

"Corrugated plastic sheeting (referred to in the industry as twinwall, Coroplast, Polyflute, Corriflute, Proplex, etc.) is an extruded plastic sheet made of a high-impact polypropylene resin."

If your bathroom is in the back of trailer it will make it much easier. You will only need to remove enough to expose what you need to look at.

How do you know that the insulation is wet? Can you see it from under the shower??

Anyway, yes wet insulation will get moldy very quickly. So that a given.

On my previous trailer the Coroplast was fastened with rivets and some screws. You can cut the rivets fairly easy. Then just replace it with the appropriate size self tapping metal screws. I also sealed the edges with gorilla tape. But that a option.

Good luck!

[Mad Maddix]

That's what I was afraid of. I know I can get the coroplast off, but putting it back, scares me. Then there's the fabric underbelly. How to take that off and can I reuse it?

To answer your questions. There's a access panel to the p-trap (which is impossible to work around the toilet) and the insulation is soaked. Then the fabric liner is like a soggy diaper, and the coroplast was sloshing when I pushed on it.

Yes feeling screwed right now. Its our second year owning this camper, and we bought it used. Buyer beware!

[Was]

I had the same problem with my Puma. Didn't want to drill out all those rivets, so I cut the plastic on 3 sides and used the attached part as a hinge. I was able to reach the trap and repair it, drain the water, and blow fans into the underbelly to dry the insulation. I didn't have a lot of wet insulation, so I got lucky. When everything was nice and dry I used 6 inch Gorilla tape on my cuts. So far its held for at least 2 years, maybe 3. I do check it often and so far its holding tight.

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by Mad Maddix

That's what I was afraid of. I know I can get the coroplast off, but putting it back, scares the S**t out of me. Then there's the fabric underbelly. How to take that off and can I reuse it?

To answer your questions. There's a access panel to the p-trap (which is impossible to work around the toilet) and the insulation is soaked. Then the fabric liner is like a soggy diaper, and the coroplast was sloshing when I pushed on it.

Yes feeling screwed right now. Its our second year owning this camper, and we bought it used. Buyer beware!

It was not that difficult to replace. I did it myself and I am old :-) A second pair of hands would help.

I do not know what you mean by "fabric underbelly" ??? The coroplast is the only thing that covers the underneath of trailer.

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by Was

I had the same problem with my Puma. Didn't want to drill out all those rivets,.

I did not drill out the rivets

I pried with a screwdriver then pulled yanked with pliers. they popped pretty easy.

Your mileage may vary:_)

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by Mad Maddix

Yes feeling screwed right now. Its our second year owning this camper, and we bought it used. Buyer beware!

Just so you know. RV ownership is a DIY project. Everyone goes thru this stuff. So do not despair. The more you do the more you learn. And this forum is good at learning you . Even if you can afford to pay someone to take care of issues. I have found that half the time it is done wrong and the other half you are overcharged. I discovered I have a better than 50/50 chance of getting it correct. And I almost never overcharge myself.

"Was" above gave you some good advice on taking care of the issue.

Good Luck!

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by U.S.ArmyVeteran

On my previous trailer the Coroplast was fastened with rivets and some screws. You can cut the rivets fairly easy. Then just replace it with the appropriate size self tapping metal screws. I also sealed the edges with gorilla tape. But that a option.

Good luck!

Ohh and use nice big washers and locking washers with the self tapping screws if you go that route.

[007matman]

I've had the underbelly off and on 3 times already in 3 yrs of ownership.

It's not a fun project but totally doable with basic hand tools. My camper didn't have any rivets.. just screws and staples.

There is virtually no insulation under my camper.. just an air space. I totally thought there would be bit what I understand is that the air space and the floor serve as the insulation. There is likely a duct that blows into the underbelly to heat it.

[Mad Maddix]

Don’t know if you can see the attachment, but it’s a pic of where the coroplast covers the fabric liner. The liners goes all the way up the camper. The coroplast covers my grey and black water tanks. I know I can get the plastic off. Not sure where to begin if the fabric

[007matman]

Back out a bit.

My camper has the Cloroplast attached to the bottom of the frame. There is an air space between that and the bottom of the trailer. The tanks are suspended via supports within that air space (as well as multiple ducts, electrical, and plumbing).

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by Mad Maddix

Don’t know if you can see the attachment, but it’s a pic of where the coroplast covers the fabric liner. The liners goes all the way up the camper. The coroplast covers my grey and black water tanks. I know I can get the plastic off. Not sure where to begin if the fabric

I do not recognize that. Maybe some one else will.

The dark grey materiel at the bottom of your picture is what is called the COROPLAST. Are we calling it the same thing??

I don't think, I have seen the silvery material anywhere under 2 different trailers. If it covers your tanks? That is great for winter camping.

See if you get a better reply. But, just get comfortable under your trailer and start surgery Nothing is that difficult............he says

Good luck

[rwhit]

That looks like duct wrap. We use it to insulate HVAC ductwork in the commercial field. It has insulation on the other side. To put the plastic back up I used self tapping screws with fender washers.

[woodpile]

Originally Posted by Was

I had the same problem with my Puma. Didn't want to drill out all those rivets, so I cut the plastic on 3 sides and used the attached part as a hinge. I was able to reach the trap and repair it, drain the water, and blow fans into the underbelly to dry the insulation. I didn't have a lot of wet insulation, so I got lucky. When everything was nice and dry I used 6 inch Gorilla tape on my cuts. So far its held for at least 2 years, maybe 3. I do check it often and so far its holding tight.

X2 I've not had to do this Yet. but if and when, this approach seems very reasonable and doable. Just make sure the "hinge" part is toward the front of camper to help the taped back sections with wind resistance.

[Bnrc73]

Having had my coroplasty off 4 times now in three years, all for different repairs, (replace black tank, sticking dump valves, and two water leaks). I’ve done each one by myself. The silver insulation was just laying on top of the plastic. A couple pieces of gorilla tape will hold it in place during reinstall.. one tip before putting it back on is to mark out your dump valves, and after reinstalling use a box cutter to make a trap door for the valves for ease of lubing or replacing. Remember to cut your door so that if the tape fails between inspections it will drag with your direction of travel and not catch on the road. Gorilla tape makes a good seal for your trap door. Good luck

[Mad Maddix]

I figured I’d update this thread. I did what some of you suggested. I slice the Coroplast so it’s like a hinge. Pulled all the wet insulation out. Yes that sucked. I then sliced the tarp to open the underneath and get to the p-trap. There was a lot of insulation. Now I’m getting ready to put it back together. Fun, fun, fun. Thanks for your help and reassurance. We’ll be back out there soon!

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Great news!


You are now our resident underbelly expert!


See you in the campgrounds soon:-)