Hot water outside access panel coming out

[tapadunbar]

We have a 2015 Sunseeker 3010DS. We just got back from a 10 day trio to northern Alabama. On the last day of the trip the hot water heater outside access panel has move out and away from the wall of the motorhome. Has anyone seen this or have an idea what is going on.
I checked for leaks at the heater under the cupboard inside and everything looks good.

[Thomas ho]

take off front cover there should be screws on bottom ,sides and top. check them .remove them and see if w- heater pushes back in . re screw.

[tapadunbar]

Thanks, I tried that and there are a few screws that seemed stripped.

If I take out all of the screws and pull it out a little just to look do you think I will get into too much trouble?

[Thomas ho]

not out!!! just push in .if screws take hold i wouldnt wory about it. reseal outside with 100% silicone

[PopFla]

Remove the screws and insert wooden matchsticks or toothpicks that are dipped in wood glue into the screw holes. Let the glue dry, then break or cut off the excess wood. Then reinstall the screws, being careful not to over tighten them.

[chriscowles]

If the screws are not secured with a backing plate of some kind and the holes are wallowed out behind the screws, you may need to put the screws in a different place. That, in turn, may require drilling new holes in the face plate and possibly through the laminate siding.

Do not drill through whatever the screws are actually secured to or, if you do, use a very small bit as a pilot hole.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by PopFla

Remove the screws and insert wooden matchsticks or toothpicks that are dipped in wood glue into the screw holes. Let the glue dry, then break or cut off the excess wood. Then reinstall the screws, being careful not to over tighten them.

I favor plastic anchors to matchsticks and glue. Don't forget to recaulk.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by PopFla

Remove the screws and insert wooden matchsticks or toothpicks that are dipped in wood glue into the screw holes. Let the glue dry, then break or cut off the excess wood. Then reinstall the screws, being careful not to over tighten them.

Rather than match sticks which are bound to fail because of the relatively large gaps between each one and the original hole Better to buy a 3/16" dowel and drill 3/16" holes where all the original screws were.

Then cut off the dowel to match the depth of the holes, apply good carpenters glue (I prefer TightBond 2) to each one and the hole then tap the dowels into the holes gently.

If when you are drilling the holes you find any that were just screwed into the skin of the camper then you can use the plastic wall anchors (3/16") someone else mentioned. CAULK around each one as you are putting it into the hole.

The next day cut the dowels flush with the outside of the camper, drill pilot holes in the dowels, caulk well, including inside the pilot holes and screw the WH into place.

I Always replace the original screws with stainless screws whenever I remove one. I suggest you do the same here. If you think the screw heads will be too small for the 3/16 holes then use a thin washer under each one.

Caulk around the outside and you have a small project finished with the attachment as good as or better than the original.

All this assumes your frame of your camper around the WH is wood. If the frame is aluminum tubing then just use the next size larger screw, no need to drill anything.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Rather than match sticks which are bound to fail because of the relatively large gaps between each one and the original hole Better to buy a 3/16" dowel and drill 3/16" holes where all the original screws were.

Then cut off the dowel to match the depth of the holes, apply good carpenters glue (I prefer TightBond 2) to each one and the hole then tap the dowels into the holes gently.

If when you are drilling the holes you find any that were just screwed into the skin of the camper then you can use the plastic wall anchors (3/16") someone else mentioned. CAULK around each one as you are putting it into the hole.

The next day cut the dowels flush with the outside of the camper, drill pilot holes in the dowels, caulk well, including inside the pilot holes and screw the WH into place.

I Always replace the original screws with stainless screws whenever I remove one. I suggest you do the same here. If you think the screw heads will be too small for the 3/16 holes then use a thin washer under each one.

Caulk around the outside and you have a small project finished with the attachment as good as or better than the original.

All this assumes your frame of your camper around the WH is wood. If the frame is aluminum tubing then just use the next size larger screw, no need to drill anything.

Actually, Douglas, plastic wall anchors work fine in wood that will no longer hold a screw. Driving the screw in expands the anchor forcing it to conform to the hole. Better than driving a screw into an end-grain dowel.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Actually, Douglas, plastic wall anchors work fine in wood that will no longer hold a screw. Driving the screw in expands the anchor forcing it to conform to the hole. Better than driving a screw into an end-grain dowel.

I realize the dowel is end grain in this application but when glued into a well fitted hole the bond is actually stronger than the original wood, as opposed to matchsticks which wont hold much.

The plastic anchor is still relying on the outward pressure created by the screw inside itself. In order for it to be most effective inside that wood you would need to have a hole drilled with a tapered bit to match the taper of the wall anchor, or its holding area will be very small.

Whereas the well fitted and glued dowel has become part of the original substrate.

[flyflotrtim]

Not to create conflict but I'm a proponent of the match sticks and glue approach. sometimes takes multiple match sticks to fill the hole. Easy peasy, the original screws go right in and I've never had a repair fail.

[PopFla]

Originally Posted by flyflotrtim

Not to create conflict but I'm a proponent of the match sticks and glue approach. sometimes takes multiple match sticks to fill the hole. Easy peasy, the original screws go right in and I've never had a repair fail.

Ditto. I've used that method around the house on hinges and cabinet hardware, on several boats, and a half dozen RVs over the last 50 years or so, and never had one fail either. Maybe I've just been lucky.

[mnoland30]

I think any of these options would work. I carry a Mr. Grip Screw Hole Repair kit in my boat and trailer. I haven't needed to use them yet, but it seems like an easy fix.

[ScottBrownstein]

I have that problem as well. You are all focusing on the wrong issue. The screws are coming out because the plywood support for the heater is insufficient. On my coach there are two 2x2s on the bottom of the particle board heater support. They whole thing was installed when the heater had no water in it and 50 pounds of water has caused the rear supports to sag and the heater is rotating. The real fix is to empty the heater and put a plywood sheet under both supports that spreads the load on the floor of the compartment. Only then can you reposition the heater and put screws back in. The screws cannot prevent the heater from rotating...the supports need to do that. All the screws do is keep the heater stationary.

This is a known problem. Screws won't keep a 60# heater from rotating.

[tapadunbar]

Thanks Scott.
Port Charlotte here.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

... The screws cannot prevent the heater from rotating...the supports need to do that. All the screws do is keep the heater stationary. ...

There's that, too.