How do you find level?

[cobrageek]

I know how to use a level, but when trying to level our new trailer so that the fridge is level we discovered that nothi g is perfectly flat. The floor gives different readings depending on where you put the level. The counters are clearly not level. The floor of the fridge is lumpy. The bottom of the freezer is the flattest thing we could find.

What does the wisdom of the forum say is the best way to determine level? (After we get it level once we will out the stick on levels in place.). Thanks!

[tmmar]

Many years ago I was told that you should go by the floor of the freezer. I got a small target level (a round level a little bigger than a quarter) and put it in the center of the freezer floor. Once I leveled the coach to that, I put stick on levels on the cabinet above the refrigerator- one facing front and one facing toward the side so I can easily check to make sure I am level. I have been doing it that way for 30 years without any problems.

[Rugged Brown]

I gave up on level.. Every level I buy at the hardware store leaks and ends up with a little bubble in it. I just guess now.

[ChooChooMan74]

My old freezer had a spot that says level here. Now, I take an average over a few places. 1/2 a bubble is close enough for government work.

[cobrageek]

Freezer floor it is. That does seem to be the flattest place we could find. We setup using an average of spots on the floor this time so the freezer floor is slightly off from that. I'm sure it's fine, but I don't want to put on our stick ons until it is more level. Thanks for the advice. The forum wisdom is always great.

RB, all my levels seem to have bubbles as well so I think there must be something wrong at the factory. :-)

[ChooChooMan74]

Originally Posted by cobrageek

Freezer floor it is. That does seem to be the flattest place we could find. We setup using an average of spots on the floor this time so the freezer floor is slightly off from that. I'm sure it's fine, but I don't want to put on our stick ons until it is more level. Thanks for the advice. The forum wisdom is always great.

RB, all my levels seem to have bubbles as well so I think there must be something wrong at the factory. :-)

I have both a 12 inch torpedo level and a little round disc level. I start with the tongue when leveling. When done, I check the counter next to the door, and confirmed that I didn't twist the camper when dropping the stabs, and then check the freezer floor. All 3 of those spots are pretty close on my unit when it is level.

[Himcules]

why would the floor of the freezer be the reference gauge for level?

doesn't make sense to me. the fridge/freezer is an appliance that gets installed into a cabinet. it is leveled and plumbed off the cabinet.

the cabinet/woodwork is installed on the floor and wall of the coach. that cabinet is leveled and plumbed off the floor.

so all reference points goes back to the floor of the coach.

for level, i use a big clear water pitcher. i either put that on the countertop or the floor and level the coach according to the water line. once the water line is leveled, i'm level. water will always find level. gotta love science to keep it simple.

[ChooChooMan74]

Originally Posted by Himcules

why would the floor of the freezer be the reference gauge for level?

doesn't make sense to me. the fridge/freezer is an appliance that gets installed into a cabinet. it is leveled and plumbed off the cabinet.

the cabinet/woodwork is installed on the floor and wall of the coach. that cabinet is leveled and plumbed off the floor.

so all reference points goes back to the floor of the coach.

for level, i use a big clear water pitcher. i either put that on the countertop or the floor and level the coach according to the water line. once the water line is leveled, i'm level. water will always find level. gotta love science to keep it simple.

The refrigerator is the main thing you want level. If it is not as close to level as possible (for me less than 1/2 bubble) then you could have issues with the refrigerants crystallizing.

[Himcules]

Originally Posted by ChooChooMan74

The refrigerator is the main thing you want level. If it is not as close to level as possible (for me less than 1/2 bubble) then you could have issues with the refrigerants crystallizing.

ok, so it's normally accepted that the fridge is not installed plumb and level to the floor of the coach?

way off level will affect the ammonia levels pooling in the coils and tubing of the fridge. gravity flow of the ammonia fluid into the burn chamber will be slowed down if adversely leveled. otherwise, the system will work just fine.

just like draining of the shower, sinks, toilets. if those aren't level they have issues as well. the greater off level, the greater the issue. all those other systems are installed leveled to the floor of the coach.

using the floor of the freezer as the reference still doesn't make sense to me. besides wastefully leaving the door open during the leveling process, you either need a helper to tell you where it's at or you run back and forth to check a bubble level that fits in the fridge. the smaller the gauge, the less accurate it is. the larger the leveling gauge, the more accurate it will be for the overall coach (it's systems).

this practice makes no sense to me.

[tmmar]

Him,
I leveled my coach when the refrigerator was off before I took it out for the first time. I them put 2 small levels one on each side of the corner of the cabinet over the fridge. That way, my wife can tell at a glance if we are level. Makes it a lot easier than going the pitcher route.

[Himcules]

Originally Posted by tmmar

Him,
I leveled my coach when the refrigerator was off before I took it out for the first time. I them put 2 small levels one on each side of the corner of the cabinet over the fridge. That way, my wife can tell at a glance if we are level. Makes it a lot easier than going the pitcher route.

if i understand correctly, your 2 small levels are on the corner of the door of the fridge? (since the body of the fridge should be inside the cabinet, at least on the coaches i have experience with). if so, the door is on hinges and are adjustable and may shift around. further the seal around the frame to the door is that magnetic compression seal that moves. so true squareness, level and plumb cannot be referenced from the fridge door.

i still find no scientific reason why the fridge is the reference point to measure level from.

the pitcher of water is just a tool. just like your small leveling gauges. as long as you have a tool, then you can reference level as best the tool can measure.

however, if the method works for you and you feel good with it, by all means go with it...

[KyDan]

I used a 4 foot carpenters level to level the frame front to back and side
to side. I used a floor jack to raise one side until level. I used the tongue
jack to get level front to back.
I stuck on 2 tiny bubble levels on the right front corner. I now use those
to judge blocks under a tire if necessary and to set tongue jack.
This was 4 years ago.
Haven't checked with the big level since then.

Fridge works, I'm happy. YMMV

[OldCoot]

A general rule of thumb used with the newer models is "if it is comfortable walking in the camper, it is good for the refrigerator"

Our refrig. in in the rear wall, so if I am level side to side according to the big level on the pinbox. I'm good to go. I set the pinbox level by leveling off the bottom side trim molding and the rear trim molding which is close enough for me.

[acadianbob]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

A general rule of thumb used with the newer models is "if it is comfortable walking in the camper, it is good for the refrigerator.

X2! I don't think one needs to obsess about it. I just put a torpedo level on the floor by the outside door; level side-to-side; and then front to back. That's been working on the same trailer for 6 years now without any issues.

[prof_fate]

Too far off level just feels weird to me when I"m at the table or laying down.

I dont' aim for perfectly level - not likely to get it anyway as I dont' bring boards/lego blocks in 1/8" incrememnts - so 1" side to side is the best I'm likely to get.

When I first got the TT I leveled in the driveway and put on levels..which fell off or didn't work well, so I put on anohter type and had similar issues. I gave up on that.

My ipod has an app for level - put it inside the door and have a child watch it. I also have a 2' level for reference and place that across the TT tounge.

As to the floor being level - well, it's attached to the frame...so why not start there?

[B47]

Originally Posted by acadianbob

X2! I don't think one needs to obsess about it. I just put a torpedo level on the floor by the outside door; level side-to-side; and then front to back. That's been working on the same trailer for 6 years now without any issues.

Same here - I place a 4 foot carpenters level on the FW entry door sill for front to back level and on a stair tread for side to side level.

We never had to make large adjustments with the stabilizers to get level,but we also have only parked the FW at CG's that have concrete pads.

Works for us.

[myredracer]

It's not just the fridge to try and keep level. If you have a tub/shower, the water can run onto the floor if not level.

I figure the straightest reference point is the frame for front to rear level and the bumper for side to side. I just added a T-level to the tongue to make it easier setting up.

[RamblerGuy]

We have a Sunseeker, which is a Class C. I use a small plastic level that has two tubes at 90 degrees. I place it on the coach's (linoleum) floor while sitting in the drivers's seat. I will sometimes move the coach back or forth to find a better starting point. The reading varies a lot depending on where I put it, but there is a spot within reach that seems to correlate well with the overall coach's level plane. As others have stated, the floor isn't prefectly flat and the countertops aren't perfectly parallel to the floor.

As a check, we see how the refrigerator door swings. If the coach is nice and level, the door will stay where you leave it.

[bodzcampers]

We use the two outside levels...one indicates side to side level and the other indicates front to back level. Once those appear level, we place a carpenters level on the floor (as close to the center of the camper as possible) and tweak it with that. We believe the carpenter's level is a tad more accurate.

[OldCoot]

We use this and get readings for front to back and side to side.