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Old 05-21-2013, 09:02 AM   #21
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And Herk, if you look at the bracket that the rear jack assembly is bolted to, you would see that it is welded ON TOP of the frame flange. If they had welded it underneath, the load would just push under the main frame, a very strong configuration. But by welding it on top. the load is being carried by a few very poor welds.
Some days I just shake my head at the guys who run the assembly of these units.
My bet is that they do it that way just because it is easier to weld that way. Their welders probably aren't very good at welding upside down.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:16 AM   #22
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After looking them over pretty closely this am, I've decided to just let them go and if they collapse for some reason or other, I'll repair them and reinforce where necessary. The whole assy, IMO is pretty flimsy and too light even for just stabilizing. Sure glad we don't have kids jumping around.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:41 PM   #23
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Lightbulb First attempt to fix....

Ok ... here is my first attempt with some wood blocks and a jack.


its about 90% there ... i need a large C clamp to bend the middle in alittle more.


and then do alittle welding.

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Old 05-21-2013, 01:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
too light even for just stabilizing.
The manual is pretty clear they are for "light stabilizing" only. Attempting to "jack up" the frame will result in failure.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:03 PM   #25
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The manual is pretty clear they are for "light stabilizing" only. Attempting to "jack up" the frame will result in failure.
One of these days when I get energetic, I might just pull the whole unit down and see what can be done to change it over to a medium-heavy duty stabilizing unit.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #26
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Checca, try either square tube or a pair of angle iron lengths bolted inside the leg. You may need to cut or drill a hole to allow for the existing bolt for the braces. I like 1/4" thickness for either the tube or angle. This should allow for some pounding into shape as well as reinforcement.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:23 PM   #27
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Checca, try either square tube or a pair of angle iron lengths bolted inside the leg. You may need to cut or drill a hole to allow for the existing bolt for the braces. I like 1/4" thickness for either the tube or angle. This should allow for some pounding into shape as well as reinforcement.
great suggestion ... i will try that.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:40 AM   #28
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Home Debit (depot!) sells short lengths of angle iron.
Over priced but convenient.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:08 AM   #29
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Google BAL jacks and see what you get.
I just did. The type you have come in pairs for around $85.
Donno if you can get just one cheaper or not.
Try a local dealer for a single one.
They are a simple bolt on replacement so you can do this or a
friendly neighbor with a socket wrench can do it and save labor cost
as well as a trip to the dealer.

Good Luck!
OP shows (Lippert Elect.stabilizers) ,not Bal jacks? Are the Parts the same? Youroo!!
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:30 AM   #30
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Probably not! I didn't realize they were electric.
Mine are electric also-- I use a battery powered electric drill to operate them
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:00 PM   #31
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Here is the final fix ... bent straight, welded and painted.

doesn't look to bad and stronger than before.
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:13 PM   #32
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Looks good. Good job!
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:15 PM   #33
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Good job and saved a lot of $$$
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #34
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Good job. Seeing yours, I just figured out how I am going to reinforce mine before I bend them. I am going to get some 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 1/8" sq. tubing and weld it to the bottom of the legs because you can't put anything inside the legs.
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:44 PM   #35
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talking it over with my welder, we were thinking all that is needed is a good three passes were they didn't weld. If you look close, they weld about 1 1/2" and then empty space for 3". Just by filling in those voids you would greatly add to the reinforcement.

But we also voted against it ... he was sure its better to overload a leg then break the screw drive ... as that is were all the weight is carried after deployment.

I'm happy with the way it turned out and isn't that hard to fix if I screw-up again.
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:01 PM   #36
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On mine, the weight when deployed is transferred from the legs to the trunion and from the trunion to the mounting C tube it slides in. I will no doubt reinforce the full length of the mounting tube also as I did on my 831RLSS.
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:05 PM   #37
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Just removed the stabilizer jacks from my 5er and they are extremely flimsy. Measured the material thickness of the legs and it is only 0.075" thick, which is just a little over 1/16" (0.063"). the whole assy is made out of this thin material. I will definitely be reinforcing both legs with some 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 1/8" tubing that I will cut one side off to get me a "C" channel about 2" deep x 2-1/2" wide and taper it at the bottom. Will also reinforce the upper channel that mounts to the frame that the leg assembly, screw & motor slide in.

These things are extremely light weight and in my opinion the legs should be positioned as straight up and down as possible as the bending strength is practically non-existent on an angle of 45į or less for any stabilizing. Should be criminal to sell these things as stabilizers. Wouldn't even make good ditch fill or a boat anchor.
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:49 PM   #38
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Decided to split the 2-1/2" x 1/8" square tubing and ended up with 2-1/2" x 1-1/4" C and tapered the last 5". Ready to grind the paint off the leg and skip weld the "C" to the leg, bead blast, paint and start on the other leg.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:58 PM   #39
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Decided to split the 2-1/2" x 1/8" square tubing and ended up with 2-1/2" x 1-1/4" C and tapered the last 5". Ready to grind the paint off the leg and skip weld the "C" to the leg, bead blast, paint and start on the other leg.

nice
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:01 PM   #40
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Nice job OldCoot. I'll be by next week to get mines done! ha ha ha
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