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Old 04-27-2022, 05:48 PM   #1
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How to install door lock ?

Hello all. Wondering if anyone has installed the cam locks on an outer compartment door? I currently have a key only lock but want to add this cam lock also. I cant find any instructions on installing for a NEW position. All says how to remove old one and replace. Any advice on how to drill new hole to ADD this cam lock? Or is it simply juts drill a hole and pray? Click image for larger version

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Old 04-27-2022, 06:45 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEliasz View Post
Hello all. Wondering if anyone has installed the cam locks on an outer compartment door? I currently have a key only lock but want to add this cam lock also. I cant find any instructions on installing for a NEW position. All says how to remove old one and replace. Any advice on how to drill new hole to ADD this cam lock? Or is it simply juts drill a hole and pray? Attachment 272239
If you want to punch a second hole in the door, it's called a double D. The tool to do that is pretty expensive and you'd probably only use it once.

A lock smith might have the tool and only charge a small fee compared to ordering the tool. You'd just have to call around.

Some people have used a Dremel tool or files to make the hole.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f48...cks-68194.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...ih=722&dpr=1.2

Sounds like a fun project to add a $5 part.
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Old 04-27-2022, 07:09 PM   #3
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I dont see where you state if the door is fiberglass coated or metal? Yes using the right bit its drill and pray. I'm not a finished carpenter. It would be like buying a door slab at home and trying to route hinges and drill holes and make it fit your existing jamb.
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Old 04-27-2022, 10:44 PM   #4
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It is a fiberglass coated door for an outside compartment. It's for my father's trailer which is a Jayco feather liteClick image for larger version

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Old 04-28-2022, 01:13 PM   #5
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Getting the dimensions is easy. Temporarily remove the current lock. Confirm that the latch bars are the same length and the diameter of the threaded parts of both locks are the same. Then measure the distance from door edge to center of current hole and make your center the same.
  • You "could" drill the new hole with a regular bit. But if you look closely at the current hole and lock, you will see two flat sides. This is to keep the entire lock from spinning when you twist the knob/key.
  • You could get someone with the proper tool to punch the hole with flats.
  • You could trace the correct shape on the door, drill it undersize, and file to the proper shape with round and flat files. Or do the same thing with a Dremel-type handheld grinder.
  • You could simply drill the hole full size and rely on tightening the mounting nut to keep it from spinning. This is tricky because the core of most doors is 1" Styrofoam and crushes before you get things very tight. (You will see this when you remove the other latch.

To get the new latch to hold the door snug, it comes with two latch tongues. One is straight. The other has an offset. This gives you three levels of tightness: offset latch facing one way, straight latch, and offset latch facing the other way.
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Old 04-28-2022, 01:28 PM   #6
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First, I would put a piece of blue painters tape on the door where you want the new hole. Then see if I could see if I could trace the hole with a pencil. I was given the tip that when cutting figerglass, its always a good idea to tape it, and cut through the tape. Ive tried it on other projects cutting fiberglass and it helps. Then take a very small drill bit. Drill holes on the line you traced out. Hole after hole. You dont have to go too crazy. Maybe 5-6 holes (make sure the holes go all the way through the other side of the door). Then use an oscillating multi tool to cut from hole to hole until you get all the way back to the first hole. You will need to repeat that on the inside of the door as well. Once both sides of the door have been cut, take a razor knife and cut the styrofoam (between the inside and outside layers). The entire thing should then just pop out and you are ready to install the new cam lock.

Disclaimer, I have never done this, but that would be how I would do it.
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Old 04-28-2022, 08:40 PM   #7
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Think I'm going to try the drill small and file to fit theory
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Old 05-07-2022, 10:17 AM   #8
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Lightbulb Fill the flats with epoxy

If not too late to help, I'd drill the large hole with a forstner bit, drilling from inside first then outside for finish. Then use epoxy or other hardening stuff that can be easily shaped to fashion the flats. Any forming, if necessary, could be done easily with clay.
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Old 05-07-2022, 10:23 AM   #9
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Harder than you think

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If not too late to help, I'd drill the large hole with a forstner bit, drilling from inside first then outside for finish. Then use epoxy or other hardening stuff that can be easily shaped to fashion the flats. Any forming, if necessary, could be done easily with clay.
It's harder than you think. Those baggage doors are a sandwich: 1/16" laminate on both exterior surfaces and 3/4" or 1" Styrofoam in between. A gob of epoxy on the Styrofoam would be useless. The first time the lock is a little stiff, the whole assembly will spin, churning the Styrofoam with epoxy globs.
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Old 05-07-2022, 10:43 AM   #10
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It's harder than you think. Those baggage doors are a sandwich: 1/16" laminate on both exterior surfaces and 3/4" or 1" Styrofoam in between. A gob of epoxy on the Styrofoam would be useless. The first time the lock is a little stiff, the whole assembly will spin, churning the Styrofoam with epoxy globs.
In that case I'd reinforce with epoxy/filler between the exterior surfaces and insert screws or pins. That should hold against a sticky lock. There are lots of ways to reinforce laminated stuff where you need a little extra strength.

OR

As described, it may be easier to insert wood flats glued between the exterior sides. That would be even easier.

There is almost always a way to reinforce fiberglass that is not falling apart, and sometimes even if it is.
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