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Old 02-04-2018, 01:06 AM   #21
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X2 on the Seafoam l. Works wonders. There is an aftermarket switch you can add to the Honda, made by others. It corrects the inability to turn off gas valve to let it run out prior to storage. I suggest you look into
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Old 02-04-2018, 01:36 AM   #22
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Once you get the honda started and before you put the excess panel back on look down inside to the lower right. You will see a plug (you may see two plugs make sure its the lowest plug...unplug it. You just have bypassed the kill switch, but not completely. Now, when you go to shut off the unit by turning the knob to the off position it will keep running for about 2- 3 minutes this will drain the gas bowl thus starving the engine. When you need to start the unit it may take 4 - 6 pulls instead of 2 or 3. Because the bowl needs to refill. Do this simple trick and you will never have a gunked up carb and no need for additives. If you watch the video that someone posted earlier the plug is white and is to the lower left. Watch below

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Old 02-04-2018, 04:26 AM   #23
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Once you get the honda started and before you put the excess panel back on look down inside to the lower right. You will see a plug (you may see two plugs make sure its the lowest plug...unplug it. You just have bypassed the kill switch, but not completely. Now, when you go to shut off the unit by turning the knob to the off position it will keep running for about 2- 3 minutes this will drain the gas bowl thus starving the engine. When you need to start the unit it may take 4 - 6 pulls instead of 2 or 3. Because the bowl needs to refill. Do this simple trick and you will never have a gunked up carb and no need for additives. If you watch the video that someone posted earlier the plug is white and is to the lower left. Watch below

http://rvbprecision.com/rv-projects/...-easy-way.html
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Old 02-04-2018, 07:21 AM   #24
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I did the same thing, but Sea Foam is Magic!

I came back from Lake Powell, added Stabil, and planned to run it a little to get it into the carb. ...Three months later, I couldn't start it. I pulled the gas line right before the carb, and dribbled some magic Sea Foam into it. It started right up, ran rough for a couple of minutes and ran great after that. I used to pull the carb, but that is a pain compared to using Sea Foam.
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Old 02-04-2018, 08:52 AM   #25
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I must buy some of this magic elixir.
I added Sta-bil to my tanks and ran the gens for about 5 minutes each and then drained the carbs. That was about 3 months ago. I have not tried to start them since and this thread now has me worried.
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Old 02-04-2018, 09:05 AM   #26
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I use Lucas ethanol treatment instead of stabil. It also has stabilizer in it. No problems with anything starting.
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Old 02-04-2018, 09:18 AM   #27
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My two Honda EU2000is are 12 years old. They have NEVER been drained of fuel, have been stored >3 months without starting. I use Sta-bil religiously in ALL their fuel, change oil/plug every 250 hours or so, clean filters/spark screen yearly, never use ethanol.

They always start after storage with several pulls.

No need to install switches, drain bowls, pull lines, etc,etc. Maintenance and forethought are key. But when you do screw up, the above posts offer lots of methods of resolution.
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Old 02-04-2018, 09:21 AM   #28
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Problems With ---------

Problems with ethanol gas I had was with small engine gas lines on chain saws,
weed whackers (all brands) in the fuel lines are lined with a plastic sleeve the
ethanol attacks. the ethanol causes the sleeve to collapse therefore starving the engine for gas. I discovered this after watching several Utube videos
of Canadian small engine repair of wood cutters having the collapse problem
on chain saws and generators.
I only use the non-ethanol gas in small engines such as chain saws, weed trimmers and generators.
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Old 02-04-2018, 11:21 AM   #29
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X 2 and drain tank first then add the sea foam to the fuel. I have had my pressure washer with a Honda refuse to start every spring and this procedure has always got my engine up and running. Later RJD
I know nothing about Honda Generators !!!
But I am wondering about spraying some eather in the carb ???
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Old 02-04-2018, 12:29 PM   #30
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Problems with ethanol gas I had was with small engine gas lines on chain saws,

weed whackers (all brands) in the fuel lines are lined with a plastic sleeve the

ethanol attacks. the ethanol causes the sleeve to collapse therefore starving the engine for gas. I discovered this after watching several Utube videos

of Canadian small engine repair of wood cutters having the collapse problem

on chain saws and generators.

I only use the non-ethanol gas in small engines such as chain saws, weed trimmers and generators.


X2 Thatís all I use in my Hondaís is ethanol free high test gasoline
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Old 02-04-2018, 12:31 PM   #31
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At the end of the Balloon Fiesta in mid-October, I left fuel in my Honda 2000 generators. I poured Stabil in but didnít run them.

Pulling the generator now doesnít want to start.

Any thoughts on what I can do to try and get it working?
I've used stabil for the last 30 yrs. and never had a problem. Though some motors want to be primed buy removing the air cleaner and pouring a little fuel in to the carb. The fuel pump don't seem to want to do after prolonged storage. The main thing you have to do with stabil or seafoam is add it to the gas in the tank and then start the engine and let it run for a little bit so you have a mixture in the carb to. Neither of these can help if it's not in the carb before shut down.
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:02 PM   #32
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At the end of the Balloon Fiesta in mid-October, I left fuel in my Honda 2000 generators. I poured Stabil in but didnít run them.

Pulling the generator now doesnít want to start.

Any thoughts on what I can do to try and get it working?
Before you start chasing ghosts verify that that you have the 3 essentials to make it run: AIR, FUEL & SPARK.

I have left lawn mowers sit for six months at a time and the fuel didn't varnish. You said you added Stabil, so unless you had bad gas to start with I doubt that is the problem. Examine your spark plug. If it is wet then you're halfway to solving your problem.
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:49 PM   #33
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Ependydad, did you get it running? That is if you had time. I know I would like to find out what you found. I think like the post above, I don't think there was enough time, but it could have had some water or just plain bad gas from the get go. So let us know Doug please.
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:54 PM   #34
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Havenít had time. We were sitting at a Walmart waiting for check-in when I posted and then hung with family+friends the rest of the day. Yesterday was Disney and today is a work day.

Iíll get around to it. Iím thankful for the video links- I wouldnít have known how to get to most of this stuff or what any of it meant from the written word!
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:57 PM   #35
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I know nothing about Honda Generators !!!
But I am wondering about spraying some eather in the carb ???
Never use starting fluid. It washes any lubrication off the cylinder walls and since it is very volatile, can ignite while the piston is travelling up in it's compression stroke and bend connecting rods. Better to pour gasoline in the carb throat.

If the engine is going to be stored for a long time, drain the float bowl.

My parents have a Honda 1000W genny that was sitting for over 10 years with ethanol fuel. I took the carb off, took it apart and cleaned out the gum that had formed. Looked like a brand new carb when I got done and works perfectly. And NO damage due to ethanol which is the only fuel we can get out here. The ethanol damage theory is an old wives tale to help sell snake oil like SeaFoam.
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:04 PM   #36
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Neither of these can help if it's not in the carb before shut down.
Or just drain the float bowl and you won't have an issue at all if it's going to be stored for awhile.

The Yamaha 3000W that I just sold has a fuel shut off so I just run it until it runs out of fuel in the bowl.
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:11 PM   #37
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That is the best way to store it for a long period of time, just saw a y tube on a 2000 predator, didn't know that if you turn the switch to just before off, it will shut the pump off and burn only the gas left in the carb to give you a dry bowl, don't know if a Honda will do that.
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:41 PM   #38
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Before you start chasing ghosts verify that that you have the 3 essentials to make it run: AIR, FUEL and SPARK.
Agree with above (basically). As my father, the old high school auto shop teacher, told me - need three things in the cylinder for an engine to fire - properly timed spark, proper fuel/air mixture, and compression. Spark - hold a plug against the block and crank - should see spark jump the the plug gap. Fuel - if plug is dry, as has been suggested, squirt some down the plug hole. Compression- hold a thumb over the open plug hole and crank - should blow by your thumb. If all three are present, put the plug back in and crank - engine should fire and run at least briefly.

If it does start and run briefly, I remove the air cleaner and squirt some fuel in - crank again. When it starts I cover the air cleaner opening with my hand - should create a lot of suction on the fuel system (and clear most carb issues after a few tries, in my experience).

Above relates to small gas engines - I have no specific experience with the Honda Generator engine.
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Old 02-06-2018, 09:27 AM   #39
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Agree with above (basically). As my father, the old high school auto shop teacher, told me - need three things in the cylinder for an engine to fire - properly timed spark, proper fuel/air mixture, and compression. Spark - hold a plug against the block and crank - should see spark jump the the plug gap. Fuel - if plug is dry, as has been suggested, squirt some down the plug hole. Compression- hold a thumb over the open plug hole and crank - should blow by your thumb. If all three are present, put the plug back in and crank - engine should fire and run at least briefly.

If it does start and run briefly, I remove the air cleaner and squirt some fuel in - crank again. When it starts I cover the air cleaner opening with my hand - should create a lot of suction on the fuel system (and clear most carb issues after a few tries, in my experience).

Above relates to small gas engines - I have no specific experience with the Honda Generator engine.
Excellent explanation of the basics. It may take several cranks for it to sputter when pouring raw combustibles in the carb and/or the cylinder(s). Thought the engine runs on gasoline, it is often difficult to get into the carb or cylinders without spilling on your hands, engine and the ground. An errant spark may cause a fire as would a back fire at the carburetor. That is even more so with an electric generator. I once had a back fire on a new engine install that caused a carb fire. Fortunately , I had a small fire extinguisher handy which is always a good idea when working with combustibles. I poured gas down the carb on that instance.

Gas on the hands and inhaling fumes is not healthy. But I have used gas in the absence of WD-40 if the carb throat is vertical, the cylinder is vertical, and I have a small funnel (even a piece of heavy paper fashioned into a funnel).

For as long as I can remember, probably since having the carb fire, I have been using WD-40 as a starting fluid on boat motors, trucks, farm tractors, cars and small engines. Have even used WD-40 down the air intake on injected engines. It is a lot easier and cleaner to work with and will not flood the engine. The straw on the spray nozzle works extremely well in this application.

WD-40 is also initially a lubricant on dry cylinder walls. A carbureted gas motor depends on suction to draw gas into the cylinder(s). WD-40 has a smooth clean burn, vaporized easily, and aids in preventing scored cylinder walls. It is not explosive like starter fluid.
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Old 02-06-2018, 09:44 AM   #40
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Excellent explanation of the basics. It may take several cranks for it to sputter when pouring raw combustibles in the carb and/or the cylinder(s). Thought the engine runs on gasoline, it is often difficult to get into the carb or cylinders without spilling on your hands, engine and the ground. An errant spark may cause a fire as would a back fire at the carburetor. That is even more so with an electric generator. I once had a back fire on a new engine install that caused a carb fire. Fortunately , I had a small fire extinguisher handy which is always a good idea when working with combustibles. I poured gas down the carb on that instance.

Gas on the hands and inhaling fumes is not healthy. But I have used gas in the absence of WD-40 if the carb throat is vertical, the cylinder is vertical, and I have a small funnel (even a piece of heavy paper fashioned into a funnel).

For as long as I can remember, probably since having the carb fire, I have been using WD-40 as a starting fluid on boat motors, trucks, farm tractors, cars and small engines. Have even used WD-40 down the air intake on injected engines. It is a lot easier and cleaner to work with and will not flood the engine. The straw on the spray nozzle works extremely well in this application.

WD-40 is also initially a lubricant on dry cylinder walls. A carbureted gas motor depends on suction to draw gas into the cylinder(s). WD-40 has a smooth clean burn, vaporized easily, and aids in preventing scored cylinder walls. It is not explosive like starter fluid.
Learned something, didn't know about wd 40.
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